02 Volvo S60 Failed The Glove Test

[Vageloudakis]

Hello guyz.
I know the thread is a little bit old but yesterday i did the glove test...
Idk what i habe to do...the globe didn't get inside and also didn't blow as OP.

Also pulled out dipstick and ive seen a litle smoking.

No oil leaks btw .

My car have 130k miles.

So i have to replace my PCV?or is something else?


Thanks

[volvolugnut]

Hello guyz.
I know the thread is a little bit old but yesterday i did the glove test...
Idk what i habe to do...the globe didn't get inside and also didn't blow as OP.

Also pulled out dipstick and ive seen a litle smoking.

No oil leaks btw .

My car have 130k miles.

So i have to replace my PCV?or is something else?


Thanks

What engine do you have? Maybe we can find best advice thread from previous postings.
volvolugnut

[Vageloudakis]

Hello guyz.
I know the thread is a little bit old but yesterday i did the glove test...
Idk what i habe to do...the globe didn't get inside and also didn't blow as OP.

Also pulled out dipstick and ive seen a litle smoking.

No oil leaks btw .

My car have 130k miles.

So i have to replace my PCV?or is something else?


Thanks

What engine do you have? Maybe we can find best advice thread from previous postings.
volvolugnut

Is 2.0t t5. I did alot of search but nothing..all s60 engines works the same...so maybe is th PCV... Idk

[leapdragon]

So after I typed in this reply, I discovered that the original thread dates to 2019.

BUT someone new has asked about it.

IF you have the Volvo inline 5 cylinder engine, the glove should be pulled down at least a little bit against the baffles under your oil cap. If it is not being pulled down, the test is failed. If you do NOT have the Volvo inline 5 cylinder engine, this may not apply to you, I only know the Volvo 5-cyl P80/P2 family engines.

Basically the failed glove test means that engine block pressure that is normally relieved through the PCV ports is no longer relieved that way because they are blocked.

You need to have your PCV system serviced and/or service it yourself to clean out the gunk that has accumulated. This is a regular (~100k miles) maintenance item. I have done it myself now three times on different V70 cars, so it is eminently possible to do it on your driveway, but beware it is a long job:

• Remove plastic head and timing covers

• Remove turbo intercooler pipe

• Remove oil dipstick

• Remove fuel rail and injectors

• Remove serpentine belt

• Unbolt power steering pump and move up and out of the way along w/fluid reservoir

• Drain coolant and disconnect coolant line going to thermostat

• Remove intake manifold and throttle body

• Remove old PCV breather box

• Remove old PCV pipe banjo bolt and intermediate tube

• Remove old PCV breather pipe

• Clean out nipples on turbo side

• Check for pipe flows

• Clean out ports on engine block

• Test for airflow by connecting hose to ports and blowing in

• IF no airflow, cry a LOT and then jack up your car, remove your oil pan, and clean return oil path, then reinstall

• Install new PCV breather box

• Install new banjo bolt and intermediate tube

• Install new PCV breather pipe

• Clean throttle body with throttle body cleaner

• Reverse order of removals to put everything back using all new gaskets and clamps

• Refill coolant

• Do an oil change and run a "cleaner" oil like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum immediately to finish cleaning out

The first time it took me two whole Saturdays plus a couple afternoons in the middle.

The most recent time it took me about 4.5 hours.

You will need:

• Metric socket set

• Multiple length ratchets (shortie w/small head to get off intake)

• Multiple wobbles and extensions

• Replacement parts and clamps

• Oetiker clamp tool

• A flashlight (don't underestimate this) and a magnet

If this sounds daunting, the other alternative is to have a Volvo shop do it. I wouldn't trust a regular mechanic to do it. In my area (central USA) prices seem to run somewhere between $800 and $1,600 depending on region for this ~100k mile maintenance item.

If you don't get it done, you WILL blow an engine seal (this happened on my first V70), at which point ALL your engine oil will very rapidly (i.e. in 10-15 seconds) exit the engine through whatever seal blew out, landing all over the pavement, and more importantly, leaving your engine running empty of any lubrication. If you don't notice it (I only caught it the first time because it was idling on my driveway!) you will spin your main bearings and destroy the engine when it blows.

If you have to drive it a bit before you get it done, pull out your oil dipstick and get a utility knife or other sharp knife and cut a big slit in the rubber hose next to your oil filler cap (that is replaced as part of the PCV job) to relieve the pressure and try to prevent the cam and main seals from blowing out (literally—they fly right out of the engine leaving a big gap around the camshafts, etc. leading to the outside world).

With the dipstick out and a slit cut in the PCV hose leading to the valve cover, your car will smell like oil and if you run it with the hood up you will see oil fumes exiting as whitish smoke as it runs... But that's better than sending your engine into the afterlife.

Short answer: If you have a 5 cylinder Volvo engine and have filed the glove test, this is not a drill. Do or have your PCV maintenance service done. Stat.

[Vageloudakis]

So after I typed in this reply, I discovered that the original thread dates to 2019.

BUT someone new has asked about it.

IF you have the Volvo inline 5 cylinder engine, the glove should be pulled down at least a little bit against the baffles under your oil cap. If it is not being pulled down, the test is failed. If you do NOT have the Volvo inline 5 cylinder engine, this may not apply to you, I only know the Volvo 5-cyl P80/P2 family engines.

Basically the failed glove test means that engine block pressure that is normally relieved through the PCV ports is no longer relieved that way because they are blocked.

You need to have your PCV system serviced and/or service it yourself to clean out the gunk that has accumulated. This is a regular (~100k miles) maintenance item. I have done it myself now three times on different V70 cars, so it is eminently possible to do it on your driveway, but beware it is a long job:

• Remove plastic head and timing covers

• Remove turbo intercooler pipe

• Remove oil dipstick

• Remove fuel rail and injectors

• Remove serpentine belt

• Unbolt power steering pump and move up and out of the way along w/fluid reservoir

• Drain coolant and disconnect coolant line going to thermostat

• Remove intake manifold and throttle body

• Remove old PCV breather box

• Remove old PCV pipe banjo bolt and intermediate tube

• Remove old PCV breather pipe

• Clean out nipples on turbo side

• Check for pipe flows

• Clean out ports on engine block

• Test for airflow by connecting hose to ports and blowing in

• IF no airflow, cry a LOT and then jack up your car, remove your oil pan, and clean return oil path, then reinstall

• Install new PCV breather box

• Install new banjo bolt and intermediate tube

• Install new PCV breather pipe

• Clean throttle body with throttle body cleaner

• Reverse order of removals to put everything back using all new gaskets and clamps

• Refill coolant

• Do an oil change and run a "cleaner" oil like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum immediately to finish cleaning out

The first time it took me two whole Saturdays plus a couple afternoons in the middle.

The most recent time it took me about 4.5 hours.

You will need:

• Metric socket set

• Multiple length ratchets (shortie w/small head to get off intake)

• Multiple wobbles and extensions

• Replacement parts and clamps

• Oetiker clamp tool

• A flashlight (don't underestimate this) and a magnet

If this sounds daunting, the other alternative is to have a Volvo shop do it. I wouldn't trust a regular mechanic to do it. In my area (central USA) prices seem to run somewhere between $800 and $1,600 depending on region for this ~100k mile maintenance item.

If you don't get it done, you WILL blow an engine seal (this happened on my first V70), at which point ALL your engine oil will very rapidly (i.e. in 10-15 seconds) exit the engine through whatever seal blew out, landing all over the pavement, and more importantly, leaving your engine running empty of any lubrication. If you don't notice it (I only caught it the first time because it was idling on my driveway!) you will spin your main bearings and destroy the engine when it blows.

If you have to drive it a bit before you get it done, pull out your oil dipstick and get a utility knife or other sharp knife and cut a big slit in the rubber hose next to your oil filler cap (that is replaced as part of the PCV job) to relieve the pressure and try to prevent the cam and main seals from blowing out (literally—they fly right out of the engine leaving a big gap around the camshafts, etc. leading to the outside world).

With the dipstick out and a slit cut in the PCV hose leading to the valve cover, your car will smell like oil and if you run it with the hood up you will see oil fumes exiting as whitish smoke as it runs... But that's better than sending your engine into the afterlife.

Short answer: If you have a 5 cylinder Volvo engine and have filed the glove test, this is not a drill. Do or have your PCV maintenance service done. Stat.

So the globe test not pass for me....
Also PCV can bring problem to turbo boost pressure? Bcz my car seems not kick as much at it should..

Thnx

[0x00]

Awesome FCP video, but:
Why the silicone grease on the plastic tube; and
why not trim the plastic tube to the correct length?

[jonesg]

some plastics shrink when heated enough.