What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[lrock]

snapped one of the studs off of the driver side spring assembly mount under the hood. Oops.

[RedBrickCollector]

Saw ATP AT-205 discussed, and I've searched but can't find anyone on the forum that's used it on the transmission. I have a minor ATF leak that looks like it's from the input shaft seal, and I'm considering some sort of seal reconditioner instead of pulling the engine.

If that's not a good idea, can it be done with pulling just the trans instead from the bottom? And what else should I do while it's apart? Rear main seal?

[jsrnsis]

Went to look at an NA car today with a blown up engine, which is a first for me seeing one that wasn't someone trying to go above and beyond with a turbo. Sounded like nails on a chalkboard when she tried to start it, no oil on dipstick, it all leaked out when the engine blew.
Car is in nice shape though, I just wish I had room for an engine swap project.

[jsrnsis]

Sorry for double post, but I also had a question before I tear things apart. Are the oil pickup o-rings a matter of time replacement, or a case by case basis? I had a very light ticking on my car, smoke testing the exhaust produced no smoke leaking out, and a vacuum taped into the exhaust produced no blowing air in the engine bay, and just blew the vacuum right off the duct tape.

So I'm thinking o-rings or lifters themselves.

[abscate]

I’ve got a ready to go NA engine on Long Island, not far away.

Kat rolled me up to Albany via the ferry for a business meeting , through a thunderstorm, and was the last car onto the 1700 ferry!

Up at 0430, 0600 ferry PJ >> BPT
Drive up to ALB
Drop BMW tire for free repair at my awesome tire guy
Meet contractor at house for update
Pick up tire on way to...
Dentist - repair a lost filling
Lunch
NYS DEC project 1200
Leave at 1500
Just make the 1715 ferry at BPT ...home 1830

"You look tired"

[foggydogg]

Saw ATP AT-205 discussed...

Several old friends from my time in the auto repair industry declared most of those additives Snake Oil. Head over here for a thorogh thrash, but fair warning, PetroChemGeeks reside:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threa ... on.376619/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threa ... il.380408/
[/quote]
If that's not a good idea, can it be done with pulling just the trans instead from the bottom? And what else should I do while it's apart? Rear main seal?
[/quote]
Yes, dropping the transmission out the bottom is less toil and bother than pulling the engine; most folks - including Robert - leave the rear main seal alone unless it is weeping.

[scot850]

I am of the opposite opinion. If the car was say 5 years old, I would not replace the RMS. On a 20+ year old car I would swap it 100% of the time. The amount of time and labor to do this job makes no sense not to do it. Pay the money for the OE part (now silly price).

I also replace the trans front seal if in for the RMS seal. On an AWD the seals for the collar to the angle gear also get done for the same reason. Only one I skip the output seal to the LHF axle if it is not leaking as it is an easy one to access.

I'm also on the pulling trans from the bottom is the way to go team.

I have used the Blue Devil sealer and the AT-205 on RMS seals. Worked on both as they were only weeping. It did not work on a bad leaking one as it was too far gone. The Blue Devil car is still leak free at 8+ years, other car is still leak free after 3 years. As for using on the trans seal, as someone in one of the links suggested, call the manufacturer and confirm it is safe to do so. If they claim it can be used on auto trans safely then give it a go. Ask them if you should leave it in.

I'm not a snake oil user, but I have had success with some products. I have spoken to many who have had success with others. Equally there have been cases where they have not worked. The only product I would avoid are coolant leak products if I plan to keep the car.
People use products like fuel stabilizers and an there is no on line debate on those I have seen. Injector cleaners are another product people don't seem to have issues with. The manufacturer of those products doo give a debate as which works best.

Seafoam is another product that seems to bring polar opposite opinions. On a new to me car I have run it in oil and through the gas with success. The only caution is on older high mileage cars it can remove carbon from the cylinders reducing compression.

Oh, we did not use the sealer again after the first use.

Oil Pan O-rings. If they are originals, then if the opportunity is there I would replace them. At this age I'm surprised they are still intact.

There will always be differing opinions on these issues based on experience and how the products were used. It is like what engine oil to use and the brand or trans oil.

Neil.

[jsrnsis]

I’ve got a ready to go NA engine on Long Island, not far away.

Even more temptation to make a bad decision....

[RedBrickCollector]

I am of the opposite opinion. If the car was say 5 years old, I would not replace the RMS. On a 20+ year old car I would swap it 100% of the time. The amount of time and labor to do this job makes no sense not to do it. Pay the money for the OE part (now silly price).

I also replace the trans front seal if in for the RMS seal. On an AWD the seals for the collar to the angle gear also get done for the same reason. Only one I skip the output seal to the LHF axle if it is not leaking as it is an easy one to access.

I'm also on the pulling trans from the bottom is the way to go team.

I have used the Blue Devil sealer and the AT-205 on RMS seals. Worked on both as they were only weeping. It did not work on a bad leaking one as it was too far gone. The Blue Devil car is still leak free at 8+ years, other car is still leak free after 3 years. As for using on the trans seal, as someone in one of the links suggested, call the manufacturer and confirm it is safe to do so. If they claim it can be used on auto trans safely then give it a go. Ask them if you should leave it in.

Labels say it's safe for auto transmissions and ATF. Just this week members are saying it's the only one that actually works so I wonder if it's worth trying. I just want to avoid wrecking my seals or worse by trying to save a buck.

Oil Pan O-rings. If they are originals, then if the opportunity is there I would replace them. At this age I'm surprised they are still intact.

Would there be any overlap in the jobs? If so then yes because dropping the oil pan is also on my list, bottom PCV channel is clogged.

[scot850]

If you are pulling the oil pan then the seals are between the pan and the block. You can then tackle the PCV as well as you will have access to the bottom of the lower drain tube from the oil separator can and the bottom of the drain into the oil pan. Best access to 100% clean it.

If you are thinking of pulling the trans to do the front seal, then you have to pull the front subframe anyway. Totally makes sense to do the oil pan as you will have better access. It can be done without removing the subframe.

If the manufacturer claims it can be used on ATF, if it were my car I would give it a go. Worst case it won't work. Will it trash your auto trans, I highly doubt it, but if yo want 100% piece of mind, call the manufacturer and ask are there any potential side affects, just as you would do when taking a prescription drug. Way up any risk and make your decision with the info at hand.

Neil.