What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[bmdubya1198]

Some comments on the current topics…
AT-205 is a great product with little worry about it messing anything up. I used it in a Ford 302 in my old Mountaineer and it slowed the oil leaks, but did not stop them. This truck had a bad oil pan and RMS leak though, so that’s something to keep in mind in this case. It was wishful thinking that any additive would make much of a difference lol. My cousin used it on his 98 V70 that’s burning a lot of oil (NOT leaking), and it cut the consumption SIGNIFICANTLY. He was very happy with the results. I believe the valve stem seals are the issue with this car, and he plans to fix that eventually but this will buy some time.

As far as replacing the RMS any time the engine or trans are removed, it depends on the car and amount of work. On a P80, I would leave it be ONLY if it looks totally clean. My main reasoning here is that parts quality now is spotty, so why would I replace the original, non leaking seal just to chance the new one to leak? That’s why you should only replace it with an OE seal with a Volvo tag on it.
In my customer’s cars of all makes and models, typically I advise replacement of the seal if the engine or trans are removed, but I leave it up to them. Some cars always seem to be leaking from there, and others may not ever. It all depends on the design of the factory seal.

5 cylinder oil pan o rings… if you have ANY doubts, do them! I dropped my oil pan a few months ago in hopes that the seals were causing some oil pressure-related noises (pretty sure it’s the oil pump itself) and they were not, however they were in awful condition. Very shrunken up and rock hard. My pan was not leaking at all, but I’m glad I took the time to do this job. Took maybe 2 hours on the lift, but wouldn’t be bad at all on jack stands. Cleanup is always the worst part, but fortunately if your pan isn’t leaking it’s much easier and cleaner of a job.
Somehow I didn’t have any issues with oil pressure prior to replacing these o rings.

[BlackBart]

Did that ^^^ use to be an o-ring?

[bmdubya1198]

Did that ^^^ use to be an o-ring?

It certainly was at one point in time!

[scot850]

Yikes, but backs up the point we have made on replacing these while in there or even preemptively at this age of the cars. Thanks for sharing that as it makes the point perfectly as to why to do it!

Neil.

[bmdubya1198]

Yikes, but backs up the point we have made on replacing these while in there or even preemptively at this age of the cars. Thanks for sharing that as it makes the point perfectly as to why to do it!

Neil.

That's why I posted it! I want to make sure others know that these seals are probably in bad shape. I was hesitant to even drop my pan at first, but upon seeing that, I'm very glad I did.

[abscate]

Hey! I just saw Bdub in Vienna!

There’s gonna be trouble, trouble, trouble

[jsrnsis]

I decided to go ahead and drop the pan because I already had the o-rings, and curiosity got the best of me.

I think it might have been done in the past, as the o-rings were green. The o-rings were still pliable, but hardened and flattened. The oil pickup seal crumbled apart when I touched it. (Also two of the shorter oil pan bolts had slightly mangled threads, and I found out my tap kit doesn't have an M8x1.0 tap or die, and they aren't carried in nearby stores. What's the point of endless suburban sprawl if they never have odd tap sizes or M7 bolts in stock!)

PCV square tube was clear, minor amount of carbon gunk buildup in the engine and pan.

I was interested in doing this because of a ticking I could hear when in the 1000-2500 RPM range, which was especially apparent when driving next to a guard rail or other cars. Less pronounced than the sound I had on my 94 when two lifters were seized. Also had a "chugging" sound at idle, hard to explain. Other option is exhaust manifold leak, but so far the smoke machine just blows out the tape I used to try to seal it to the oval tailpipe.

[scot850]

That oil pan looks pretty clean. Maybe it has been off before in the distant past and been cleaned. Shame it sounds like they changed the pan seals but possibly not the oil pick up seal.

Well now you are in there, you can now sleep again at nights knowing it has been done!

Neil

[RedBrickCollector]

I have the seal kit from FCP euro already, just waiting to schedule the actual work for the oil pan (pending a check to see if it's not the axle or the ATF cooler lines leaking, so they can be done together). Anyone know if that kit is missing anything important? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... r-30750783

[jsrnsis]

That oil pan looks pretty clean. Maybe it has been off before in the distant past and been cleaned. Shame it sounds like they changed the pan seals but possibly not the oil pick up seal.

Well now you are in there, you can now sleep again at nights knowing it has been done!

Neil

I wish that was the case but I'm a worrier, I'll be thinking I did something wrong for a few weeks. But it is nice to eliminate a potential issue. The pickup seal practically turned to dust when I touched it. I was surprised that at some point, it was a flexible rubber seal.

I have the seal kit from FCP euro already, just waiting to schedule the actual work for the oil pan (pending a check to see if it's not the axle or the ATF cooler lines leaking, so they can be done together). Anyone know if that kit is missing anything important? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... r-30750783

For a car up to 1998, or any car without the newer oil pan that has the oil cooler mounted on the back, you only need 3 of those items for the pan job itself.

30637867 is the straight-walled seal that goes on the pickup tube, 8642560 and 8642559 are the o-rings that connect to the oil cooler on turbo cars and go to a blockoff plate on non-turbo cars. I have a low pressure turbo on my XC but I installed the blockoff plate after watching RobertDIY's videos and having sprung a leak somewhere on the cooler lines. But changing the dipstick seal isn't a bad idea either.

Forgot to mention, permatex foaming action gasket remover works great for whatever the staining is on the sealing surface, whether its old sealant or oil varnish. Apply the chemical and wait like 30 minutes, and most of the staining comes right off in flakes with a plastic scaper blade.