Can You Mix Rotors? Drill/Slotted Front with Solid Rear

[TRNorton]

I am going to need to replace the rotors on The Yeti - my 99 V70 XC. I was planning just use OEM Volvo Rotors but I can across
this listing in my local Facebook Marketplace for $180:

"One pair Front Rotors -the older Posi Quiet brand castings made in Italy. Not a Chinese casting . Use 125.39023 for reference. These are high quality high carbon ultra premium castings.
+ new pad sets - They are ultra premium grade OE Formula Textar brake pads. Low Carbon brake pads. Made in Germany."


I can't find anything but solid rotors for my chassis number: -587441. Can I run slotted front and solid rear without any weirdness - or should I just stay solid all around?

[Oro]

You can do that.

I believe these are 302mm diameter for R models, etc. Have you modified your brackets for that and have 16” or larger wheels? That spec indicates 302mm, and your car came stock with 280mm rotors. (I also don’t think of it as much of a bargain, tbh).

[TRNorton]

Oh man thank you for that info! I haven't pulled off the old rotors and didn't realize the size difference. Clearly a newbie here. I appreciate the catch and the feedback on the parts.

I think I will just stay all OEM on rotors and pads.
It seems like FCP has better all around prices on VOLVO Rotors and pads. But I will do a comparative shop between them and IPD.

[Oro]

Oh man thank you for that info! I haven't pulled off the old rotors and didn't realize the size difference. Clearly a newbie here. I appreciate the catch and the feedback on the parts.

I think I will just stay all OEM on rotors and pads.
It seems like FCP has better all around prices on VOLVO Rotors and pads. But I will do a comparative shop between them and IPD.

Couple quick ideas:

A) Check out RME - Rocky Mountain European. They have great prices and quick shipping. THey have a warehouse in CA so you will get stuff fast. Volvo rotors are fine. So are others. It’s not a brand-critical item.

B) I get great results w/quality Ceramic pads (Bosch, wagner, Raybestos). Good performance and CLEAN. Volvo OE pads are Jurid - good feel and performance, but absolutely filthy.

C) If you do want some enhanced performance, get some braided stainless lines, at leat up front (that’s 90% of it). It will not increase ultimate stopping power, but it gives better feel and reduces modulation slightly.

A few years ago I looked hard into slotted rotors, and the 302 upsize. Dollars for value, I didn’t feel it was worth it. I just rebuilt my existing calipers, got Bosch ceramic pads (not pricey), turned OE rotors, and stainless lines (front only). I’m pleased and it was relatively cheap.

[scot850]

Calipers and pads are the same for 280 and 302mm rotors. Only differences are:

1) You have to replace the caliper brackets. IPD and FCP often have them. I think FCP was using the Skandix ones for a while.
2) You have to replace the front flexi-hoses. The 302mm rotors need longer to reach. NEVER use the regular hoses on the 302mm caliper brackets as you can break them as they are too short on full lock.

Unless you are planning to race the car, don't bother with braided hoses. Good ones are hard to find, and you can't tell when the internals are starting to fail. Each to their own, I won't use them for regular driving.

There used to be issues with squealing brakes on these Volvos, but not heard of this issue in a while. Many good products out there. I have been using either Brembo or the coated Zimmermanns. I don't have experience of other brands. Some like Bosch rotors. Volvo OE rotors used to be good. I have used them but stopped using them on our 06 XC70 after warping issues with OE rotors. 3 sets and a regrind in about 15,000 miles. Fitted Brembos and been good since.

Pads, these days I use Akebono. Not to everyone's taste. Low dust and good performance. Some find they don't like the feel when cold.

Good Luck!

Neil.

[Oro]

That’s terribly advice above.

High quality braided lines for these cars are easily available, affordably. It’s 2024, not 2002.

You can tell when lines are about to fail the same way - you feel it. Unless you are jacking the car up weekly to visual inspections (who the heck is doing that)? Nonsense.

I’ve run braided lines on my street cars, track cars, street bikes, and track bikes, since 1991. There is no downside. I’ve run those on my own machines and other vehicles on the track at New Hampshire International, Summit Point, and I’ve run the big oval at Talladega at 190. They work on the track, and they work on the street, and there is no downside.

Braided lines give tremendous “feel” for what’s going on. They have no downside at all, and give a great degree of confidence and feedback to the amateur driver wanting to be better, learn more, feel more.

[scot850]

It all comes down to personal experience, and yours is different to mine. For you as an experienced wrencher, you may have the knowledge to work with braided lines, and yes I am aware people say they have better pressure, but then there are those who find they make the brakes feel dead. Also you can't see the internal rubber when it is perished, so again lack of user knowledge can make these more challenging with less experienced owners to see and check.

There have been several complaints on problems with braided hoses out the box being faulty. Even in the last few years. When you have been on this forum for a long time, you would have read these issues.

Neil.

[TRNorton]

So many great answers... and now so many new questions... I think I will start a new survey to help me decide which brand(s) to go with for rotors and pads...
As far as hoses mine were replaced about 3K miles ago before I bought YETI (my White 99V70XC), my 95K calipers were swapped on when Yetrude's (my wrecked Silver 99V70XC) vitals were salvaged, so I will wait a while before thinking about replacement hoses and possible caliper upgrades...
Hoping to not have to break and bleed my brakes for this rotor/pad swap...