Outstanding! Is that music Modest Mouse?Volvebaker wrote: ↑13 Aug 2024, 19:51 what did I do today? well, I rolled her over 250k
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What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved
- matthew1
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Re: What did you do to your Volvo today?
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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scot850
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Well done achieving that mileage!
I am about to embark on a potentially huge amount of work on an 02 XC70 with about 240,000 miles on it. I have already assessed it and the young student my friend wants to donate it to has agreed to the step approach I have suggested to tackle it.
There are 10 engine codes. We are going to tackle those first as most of the work is stuff like brakes and shocks. No point sinking money into the car until we know the engine is good. I will probably get to that in the next few days. So spent a chunk of the morning working out plans with him. He is organizing to get the winter tires from the owner which are supposedly in good condition. Need to replace the 10 + 13 year old dry cracked summers on the car. Also fed up as one loses all its air over a couple of days.
Got time for a quick lunch and then onto our 00 R to find what broke this time. My plan was to pull the prop-shaft and see if the issue continued. It is fairly easy with a hoist so rear 6 hex Allen bolts were out pretty quickly. Then knocked the cup loose.
Went to the front and started to loosen the hex Allen bolts (weird 6mm at front and 8mm at rear??). When I happened to knock a small heat shield I did not know existed. It has 2 x 10mm headed M6x 12mm long bolts on stands offs holding it in place to protect the front joint on the prop-shaft from the cat. Found it had broken through both the mounts and had diagonal grind marks on it from the prop-shaft/angle gear flange.
As the 2 stand offs are about 12mm long, this was allowing the shield to move on the mounts enough to rub on the flange particularly on right hand bends or bumps randomly.
Those 2 x 10mm M6 bolts are a total swine to get to, especially the higher up one. Probably took about an hour to get them to come out using PB Blaster. Refitting the shield (NLA naturally) with a washer either side needed longer M6 bolts. Those took even longer to fit until I used a zip-tie to hold it in place and spent probably 30 minutes trying to get the top bolt back in.
Hopefully that is now all good.
Then another student I help with his 06 V50 came around for help with his thermostat swap. His friends and he had tried yesterday but failed as they could not get the air box out. Case of 2 gallon air box with a gap for a 1 gallon bow to be removed.
Needs you to remove the 2 x 15mm headed RH engine mount to frame bolts and then force then engine rearward to get enough room (just) to get the air box out. Also had to figure out first how to remove 2 large cable harnesses on the LH of the airbox. Fortunately they are similar to the P80 ABS cable connector with the cam lever to remove them both.
Fitting the new thermostat was fairly straight forward. It had had a good quality (???
) PPS thermostat housing fitted by the original owner. Swapped the thermostat with a NAPA supplied thermostat which has a jiggle valve. Rebuild it all and he set off home. Got up to 120kph on the way home on the highway and going up a hill and temp stayed around 100C. He is thrilled that seems to have fixed the issue. I will test the thermostat tomorrow and assume for now it was not fully opening.
Busy day, but hopefully has been fruitful!
Neil.
I am about to embark on a potentially huge amount of work on an 02 XC70 with about 240,000 miles on it. I have already assessed it and the young student my friend wants to donate it to has agreed to the step approach I have suggested to tackle it.
There are 10 engine codes. We are going to tackle those first as most of the work is stuff like brakes and shocks. No point sinking money into the car until we know the engine is good. I will probably get to that in the next few days. So spent a chunk of the morning working out plans with him. He is organizing to get the winter tires from the owner which are supposedly in good condition. Need to replace the 10 + 13 year old dry cracked summers on the car. Also fed up as one loses all its air over a couple of days.
Got time for a quick lunch and then onto our 00 R to find what broke this time. My plan was to pull the prop-shaft and see if the issue continued. It is fairly easy with a hoist so rear 6 hex Allen bolts were out pretty quickly. Then knocked the cup loose.
Went to the front and started to loosen the hex Allen bolts (weird 6mm at front and 8mm at rear??). When I happened to knock a small heat shield I did not know existed. It has 2 x 10mm headed M6x 12mm long bolts on stands offs holding it in place to protect the front joint on the prop-shaft from the cat. Found it had broken through both the mounts and had diagonal grind marks on it from the prop-shaft/angle gear flange.
As the 2 stand offs are about 12mm long, this was allowing the shield to move on the mounts enough to rub on the flange particularly on right hand bends or bumps randomly.
Those 2 x 10mm M6 bolts are a total swine to get to, especially the higher up one. Probably took about an hour to get them to come out using PB Blaster. Refitting the shield (NLA naturally) with a washer either side needed longer M6 bolts. Those took even longer to fit until I used a zip-tie to hold it in place and spent probably 30 minutes trying to get the top bolt back in.
Hopefully that is now all good.
Then another student I help with his 06 V50 came around for help with his thermostat swap. His friends and he had tried yesterday but failed as they could not get the air box out. Case of 2 gallon air box with a gap for a 1 gallon bow to be removed.
Needs you to remove the 2 x 15mm headed RH engine mount to frame bolts and then force then engine rearward to get enough room (just) to get the air box out. Also had to figure out first how to remove 2 large cable harnesses on the LH of the airbox. Fortunately they are similar to the P80 ABS cable connector with the cam lever to remove them both.
Fitting the new thermostat was fairly straight forward. It had had a good quality (???
Busy day, but hopefully has been fruitful!
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- Volvebaker
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I tried to time it, just right.matthew1 wrote: ↑13 Aug 2024, 21:26Outstanding! Is that music Modest Mouse?Volvebaker wrote: ↑13 Aug 2024, 19:51 what did I do today? well, I rolled her over 250k
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- ZionXIX
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Sorry to burst your bubble Matt but half those are probably me......
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
- matthew1
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Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

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RedBrickCollector
- Posts: 192
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Halfway point for the dash resculpt. It started with agreeing on fiberglass for inside but it turned into a little more than that for additional structure.


On a very minor unfortunate note, the little "0" markings that go by the A/C vents may have been lost in the reassembly process. Are they just little sticker-like things that go behind the dashboard material?


On a very minor unfortunate note, the little "0" markings that go by the A/C vents may have been lost in the reassembly process. Are they just little sticker-like things that go behind the dashboard material?
'97 950 T-5 Wagon
'89 and '95 Daihatsu Feroza
'89 and '95 Daihatsu Feroza
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I attended the Auchlochan Car Show today, unlike the previous years sunshine today was cold, wet and windy so no cleaning of the car when I arrived as there was lots of road spray accumulated driving to the venue. Only one other Volvo there, a badger of a 940
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jsrnsis
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Not exactly "today" but I got my oil pan back in and engine mount situated. Still have that "chugging" sound, so I might have to be attempting a seal between the downpipe and turbo. Drove to NYC to meet a friend and noticed some bump steer on the wonderful roads, when I lift the front end up, there seems like play in the rack itself, I've read about adjusting preload on the rack but haven't been able to find the threads again. For doing the oil pan, using an engine support bar helped a lot, rather than trying to jack up the engine with the crank side mount.
Also thinking about replacing the end links on the rear sway bar. Haven't seen anything about this for an AWD.
Edit: Also poked around a bit on my sister's 850. Has a problem starting where it coughs and sputters no matter how long you crank it the first time, then springs to life the second time you go to start it. It runs beautifully once it's going. Already changed the starter. It had a bad battery when we got it and the PO was just jumping it every time she needed to get somewhere.
Also thinking about replacing the end links on the rear sway bar. Haven't seen anything about this for an AWD.
Edit: Also poked around a bit on my sister's 850. Has a problem starting where it coughs and sputters no matter how long you crank it the first time, then springs to life the second time you go to start it. It runs beautifully once it's going. Already changed the starter. It had a bad battery when we got it and the PO was just jumping it every time she needed to get somewhere.
1998 V70XC black 183xxx
2014 S80 T6 AWD 110xxx
1998 V70XC nautic blue 155xxx
1997 850 GLT 123xxx
2024 Honda CRF110F
Previous Volvos:
1997 850 GLT 239,577
1998 V70 NA silver 202,510
1994 850 NA gray 125,000
1998 V70 NA white 163xxx
2014 S80 T6 AWD 110xxx
1998 V70XC nautic blue 155xxx
1997 850 GLT 123xxx
2024 Honda CRF110F
Previous Volvos:
1997 850 GLT 239,577
1998 V70 NA silver 202,510
1994 850 NA gray 125,000
1998 V70 NA white 163xxx
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RedBrickCollector
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jsrnsis wrote: ↑17 Aug 2024, 19:22 Edit: Also poked around a bit on my sister's 850. Has a problem starting where it coughs and sputters no matter how long you crank it the first time, then springs to life the second time you go to start it. It runs beautifully once it's going. Already changed the starter. It had a bad battery when we got it and the PO was just jumping it every time she needed to get somewhere.
I had something similar in viewtopic.php?t=104578 , and while mine was fixed by changing the fuel pump "relay" capacitors, there were other possible causes outlined
'97 950 T-5 Wagon
'89 and '95 Daihatsu Feroza
'89 and '95 Daihatsu Feroza
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RedBrickCollector
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Has anyone encountered a leak where there's oil coming through the oil sensor? Seems to be coming from there but not from the threads.
'97 950 T-5 Wagon
'89 and '95 Daihatsu Feroza
'89 and '95 Daihatsu Feroza
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