'02 V70XC drive shaft removal - sanity check

[jrschwit]

Any significant difficulty removing the drive shaft between the angle gear and rear end? I'm very familiar with the FWD P2 V70s but not the AWD versions. From my online searching, the propshaft removal appears straightforward. Remove CV joint flange at both ends via allen capscrews and the center center bearing support. Is there any more to it? I will have access to a lift to make underside access easy.

Purpose is to temporarily allow towing via a typical tow dolly. Thus second question, is; any particular problems towing via a dolly with the rear tires on the ground? I know that the XC in question fits my tow dolly fine.

Thanks, Jim

[jonesg]

i don't see that you gain anything by removing the prop shaft, the shaft isn't physically connected to the diff unless the haldex engages.

but if the front wheels are off the ground and rear wheels on a dolly, no wheels are turning. So i don't see why you have to do anything.

[jrschwit]

I wasn't clear enough. I don't have a dolly for the rear wheels. I'll be using a typical tow dolly with only the front wheels off the ground. I tried it with the gearshift in both Park and Neutral and and the rear wheels drug on grass. I don't want to damage anything. What I've seen of Volvo's literature says to only trailer an XC. But from what I've seen online, it is common for XC owners to remove the shaft if their AWD is problematic so I presume freewheeling the rear wheels is not a problem.

[erikv11]

re first question: yes, you have it right. Sometimes you need an impact to dislodge it from the flanges. Bye careful to not damage the Haldex electronics while in there.

re second question: I think you're right but also not certain, haven't done it.

[scot850]

Did the Haldex system not come in until 03 or 04? Not sure what the first 2 years of P2 were fitted with but I believed it was the same as the P80 system with the GKN viscous coupling as per this great article from FCP Euro:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/volvo-awd- ... -explained

Either way, removing the prop-shaft has the same effect.

Neil.

[jrschwit]

Thanks for the replies. Especially the FCPEuro blog explanation. I had been looking for a simple explanation of the AWD concept of operation which that article provides.
I strongly suspect that I have the GKN reactive viscous coupler based on its age (2002) and the way the system reacted when I first tried to tow it. I am chagrinned that I did not do my homework thoroughly before I first tried to tow the car last week. After I loaded the front wheels on the dolly, it occurred to me that it was AWD and something needed to be done to allow the rear wheels to "free wheel". So I towed it on grass for a short distance. It towed without resistance for a short distance but in the span of 50 ft the resistance gradually increased until the driveline locked up and slid the tires. Seems exactly how the dilatant fluid in the viscous coupling would work.
I'm set to try again this week after disconnecting the driveline. Will report back......

[scot850]

Dumb thing from me. I have a friends 02 XC70 in the garage. Even had it up on the hoist yesterday and didn't even look at it! D'oh!!

Neil.

[lrock]

can confirm it's a viscous coupling

[lrock]

if it was anything like my 01, it will be rusted together on both ends, use the hole in the rear of the connecting collar to whack it out, I had to cut down 2 or three bolts to different lengths and starting with the shortest to longest, slip them in and whack them with something, a lift will make this easier, I had mine up on jackstands, laying on my back with 0 swinging room, later models also have that hole threaded so you can just put one of the 6 bolts you just took out in the other side and by screwing them in, break the shaft free.

[jrschwit]

Follow-up: Thanks for the helpful info above, I was able to disconnect the driveshaft and tow the vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. To make it simpler, I decided to only disconnect the rear coupler. Because of the limited collapsibility of the driveshaft, I had to drop the center bearing carrier as far as the exhaust pipe would allow. I experienced the expected resistance of withdrawing the coupling flange from its counterbore in the viscous coupling assembly. Having tapped holes in the rear flange to enable the use jacking bolts would have been very nice. In the end, though, the driveshaft was removed without serious drama and zip tied out of the way. The car towed very nicely on a standard U-Haul style tow dolly. Thanks to all for the helpful hints.
Jim