I've got the turbo out for inspection and repair of the waste gate and CBV, and a thorough cleaning.
While getting it out, I had two studs come out with the nuts. Of the two remaining, one was in the flange and one in the manifold.
The one in the turbo flange snapped when I tried to remove it. I haven't had the nerve to try with the one in the manifold.
This stud was an absolute bear to drill out. It seemed to be made of kryptonite, kept dulling drill bits, and it seemed the threads were cold-welded into the cast flange even after the rest of the stud was drilled away. It totally ate the standard size tap, so we drilled it out to M8 with a carbide bit and retapped.
I've got four questions:
1. Why did Volvo use such an extremely hard alloy for these studs?
2. What would I be risking to use a lesser metal for the replacements?
3. Where might I get a replacement stud that's M8 on one side and the standard M7 on the other?
4. What say ye about the one still stuck in the manifold? Leave it, chase its outer threads in place?
Thanks in advance, all.
2006 S60 2.5T AWD - oversize turbo/manifold studs?
- kcodyjr
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2006 S60 2.5T AWD - oversize turbo/manifold studs?
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
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2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
- firstv70volvo
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Volvo probably used stainless steel bolts for corrosion resistance. Carbide tip multi-material (for metal too) drill bits are needed as you found out. M8 to M7 reduction stud may exist but may be hard to find, how about drilling out the hole to accept M8 stud. Mayhew pneumatic bolt breaker tool is worth considering if you go after the stud stuck in the manifold. Mayhew Tools 37315 Pneumatic Bolt Breaker, 3/8-Inchkcodyjr wrote: ↑22 Aug 2024, 18:52 I've got the turbo out for inspection and repair of the waste gate and CBV, and a thorough cleaning.
While getting it out, I had two studs come out with the nuts. Of the two remaining, one was in the flange and one in the manifold.
The one in the turbo flange snapped when I tried to remove it. I haven't had the nerve to try with the one in the manifold.
This stud was an absolute bear to drill out. It seemed to be made of kryptonite, kept dulling drill bits, and it seemed the threads were cold-welded into the cast flange even after the rest of the stud was drilled away. It totally ate the standard size tap, so we drilled it out to M8 with a carbide bit and retapped.
I've got four questions:
1. Why did Volvo use such an extremely hard alloy for these studs?
2. What would I be risking to use a lesser metal for the replacements?
3. Where might I get a replacement stud that's M8 on one side and the standard M7 on the other?
4. What say ye about the one still stuck in the manifold? Leave it, chase its outer threads in place?
Thanks in advance, all.
- kcodyjr
- Posts: 1236
- Joined: 31 January 2010
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Oh, no, it wasn't stainless, it was something much more exotic.firstv70volvo wrote: ↑22 Aug 2024, 20:07 Volvo probably used stainless steel bolts for corrosion resistance.
My Pop helped me work on this, he's done thousands of these over many decades. He got his chops at that famous old Caddy-Olds place. He said he's never seen anything like this metal. Stainless would have been old hat and a cinch by comparison. He said even SAE grade 8 was nothing like this.
Vanadium steel, like most gun barrels, would be a good first guess. That it meets metric 12.9 would be another good guess.
It seems like a silly choice, because the harder a metal is, 1) the harder it is to do this, and 2) the more brittle it is. It really didn't take any great force to twist off the one that broke on me. It was a long 13mm box wrench with the flange clamped in a bench vise.
I wonder if Volvo's all-too-clever engineers were thinking about galvanic cells, or something, between aluminum heads and cast iron manifolds, and then just used the same stuff for the cast-to-cast turbo flange studs as well?
Unless someone can dream up a plausible argument to the contrary, I think I'm looking for aftermarket studs that just happen to fit, and are made of something more conventional in case if I ever have to to go through this again.
This in opposition to my usual stubborn insistence on going with OEM.
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
- firstv70volvo
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Use a magnet to check if stainless or not. Stainless can become work hardened if heated too much by dull drill bit or wrong drill rate and then it becomes extremely hard to drill, may be something else though. Good quality aftermarket studs with anti-seize should be all you need. For difficult exhaust bolts and studs I've had good success with the Mayhew bolt breaker tool and air hammer.kcodyjr wrote: ↑22 Aug 2024, 21:00Oh, no, it wasn't stainless, it was something much more exotic.firstv70volvo wrote: ↑22 Aug 2024, 20:07 Volvo probably used stainless steel bolts for corrosion resistance.
My Pop helped me work on this, he's done thousands of these over many decades. He got his chops at that famous old Caddy-Olds place. He said he's never seen anything like this metal. Stainless would have been old hat and a cinch by comparison. He said even SAE grade 8 was nothing like this.
Vanadium steel, like most gun barrels, would be a good first guess. That it meets metric 12.9 would be another good guess.
It seems like a silly choice, because the harder a metal is, 1) the harder it is to do this, and 2) the more brittle it is. It really didn't take any great force to twist off the one that broke on me. It was a long 13mm box wrench with the flange clamped in a bench vise.
I wonder if Volvo's all-too-clever engineers were thinking about galvanic cells, or something, between aluminum heads and cast iron manifolds, and then just used the same stuff for the cast-to-cast turbo flange studs as well?
Unless someone can dream up a plausible argument to the contrary, I think I'm looking for aftermarket studs that just happen to fit, and are made of something more conventional in case if I ever have to to go through this again.
This in opposition to my usual stubborn insistence on going with OEM.
-
scot850
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Volvo engineers are far from smart. Ask why they use steel bolts and aluminum for suspension parts when they sell cars and develop them for cold countries where salt is used...............?!
Neil.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- volvolugnut
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Design engineers have many needs driving their choices - cost, weight, available parts and materials, and assembly ease. I think long term service ease is way down the designers priority for passenger cars.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
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