02 XC70 - The repairs have started

[Blacklab467]

A/C Delco brand is usually the best for this.

[scot850]

Good advice both of you and thanks!

However, I have bought some heat resistance tubing off good old Amazon. 3 diameters in one pack all of which I am short of on the shelf. 13ft of each, more than enough for what I need for this project and plenty more. I used to use and have recently used the regular stuff from Princess Auto (Harbor Fright equivalent North of 49th). It held up pretty well for maybe 7-8 years but then starts to break up. Not sure this car will last as long as to be concerned of the longevity, but I'll try to give it the best chance!

Now not going to be able to tackle much more for a few days due to other commitments until Tuesday. I might get a chance tomorrow depending on timing, to get the spark plug tubes cleaned out. That would be then only the throttle body left to remove, clean and re-fit allowing the re-assembly and see if any of the work has made any change to the running!

Here is some of what I have worked with so far:

Intercooler inlet rubber hose

You can see the condition of the pipe. It was split where the pipe clamp stopped and sprayed oil all over the engine front and the throttle body inlet pipe.

TB inlet pipe

Oil covering the TB inlet pipe from the intercooler inlet hose.

TB inlet pipe crack

This is the crack in about the middle of the intercooler outlet to TB inlet pipe. Hopefully you can see the crack!

Oil coated electrical contact on coil

This is probably the worst one, but all had some oil on them.

Original coils from 01

Original coils date 2001. All have multiple cracks in the casing and all had oil inside the rubber boots:

One of 3 casing cracks

This is the top of the coil and spark plug area before cleaning!:

Oil in coil and spark plug areas

I guess a before and after is necessary!

Oil cleaned off the top of the engine

Some of the work to date!


Neil.

[jrschwit]

Neil,
I'm following this thread with particular interest. I just acquired an '02 XC70 with a VIN sequence number just a bit earlier than yours. Initial repair is to replace the power steering pump which locked up and threw the serpentine belt. Then put it on the road for a while to see what other problems need attention. The car had been the previous owners daily driver for over a year with no remarkable problems. I'm hopeful that I can get some decent miles out of it for decent money since I paid less than the value of the tires on it. It's intended for a soon-to-be-driving grandchild.
Jim

[scot850]

I wish you good luck with your project too. Unfortunately it is a little fits and starts on this car as time allows. I have 2 x poorly cars of my own to fix and life currently is getting in the way. With luck I can try to replace the bad wheel bearing on my 00 V70R on Tuesday and then get back to the XC70. I don't have a lot to do to put it back together. Last thing to do is reinforce the Throttle body inlet pipe and clean the TB and the sparkplug tubes and then hopefully it can all go back together and I can try to get the car started and see if there is any improvement. I really hope so. If it runs better, then there is the O2 sensors to do.

If the engine shows no improvement in running then I will hold off on the O2 sensors. No point fitting them if the engine does not run better.
Then the repairs start to get expensive. Then we are looking a stuff like possible valve issues and TB issues. At that point the economics don't make any sense.

Neil.

[scot850]

I added some update info in this thread in error that should be here:

viewtopic.php?t=105107&start=10

Neil.

[scot850]

Bit of a slow day on the car due to lack of time. Plugs were gapped yesterday so lubed, fitted and torqued.

I then decided the coil and VVT harness needed some refreshing. A lot of the outer corrugated plastic covering had deteriorated and was crumbling. I cut and removed the bad sections and fitted new temp resistant tubing and taped it up. Took a lot longer than I was hoping!

Didn't refit the harness yet as it is easier when the coils have been fitted. A friend it dropping by tomorrow with a few and I also have some, so enough to fit better coils. Then the harness can be refitted which is a long way down to being able to hopefully start the engine and see if any of the work has improved is.

Had a look at the TB with a mirror. It is remarkably clean. I think I will try to clean it in place tomorrow. Then the pipes can go back on to the TB from the intercooler and from the turbo to the intercooler.

Last think to do is remove the MAF and give it a good clean. With a lot of luck maybe the car can get completed to get it started.

I will leave the spark plug cover off to allow me to see if there are any remaining sources for all the oil on the top of the engine. I cleaned the oil filler cap and replaced the crusty hard seal. I have doubts about the integrity of the oil separator to cylinder head line. I can't see if it is cracked where it goes under the spark plug carrier. The top and sides seem ok, just can't tell about the bottom side. Also as the section that fits onto the tube on the top of the hear is brick hard, I'm not sure if it is leaking where is crimped to the head. I have seen those pipes get really hard and then leak between the pipe and the tube it fits too. Will need to be monitored.

Neil.

[scot850]

As most of the repairs were to do with the plastic turbo intercooler hoses I added the further repairs to that thread. It includes yet another plastic tube repair and other updates.

viewtopic.php?t=105107&start=10

Neil.

[scot850]

Well today I decided after the waste of time on my own car, , that as I had all the parts cleaned and ready to go, I would tackle the easy and quick re-install of the 2 intercooler pipes. Ha! What a joke. Another of Volvo's wonderful designs. I had wondered why the back of the hard plastic intercooler to TB pipe was all scratched to hell. Well now I know!! I wish I didn't though.........

The pipe is exactly the length of the space you have from the intercooler outlet and to the TB inlet. However, you cannot move the TB end onto the TB because the fricking starter motor solenoid bolts are in the way. Hence the pipe being badly scratched. I fought this for an hour and my lower arms are shredded by all the rough metal. Again I was reaching for the matches, when I decided what I needed was more room and less of the no room so work by braille, or light and able to see but not do anything. My wife appeared with a muffin fresh from the oven, which gave me time to reconsider. Well, in typical Volvo fashion, remove more stuff to install stuff!

So, out with the cooling fan and hey presto, way more room. Also removed the plastic cover over the injectors which allowed me to see a bit more of what was going on. So silicon oil on the inside of the pipe, then try again and this time it went on way easier as I could get a better grip in the pipe to bend it so it went on the side of the pipe closest to the starter first and then it kind of went the rest by itself.

The non with the new 'second hand' intercooler inlet rubber hose and pipe over the top of the engine to the turbo.

Re-fitted the MAP sensor and the air inlet temp sensor (another truly stupid design!!), refitted the MAF cable. Removed all the tools (where did the 7mm socket go???). So double checked everything was re-attached and got my son to start the car and see if it would and then if it would run. The good news was after a slight stumble on start up, it ran without any misfire. The issue it did have was if you rev it, and let it return to idle, it stumbles/falters before returning to a smooth idle.

Any suggestions for that issue?

I decided to quit while ahead!!

Tomorrow I will clear the 10 engine codes and see what comes back. I am still considering the oil and filter change to see if that helps the engine run better. I also know it still needs the O2 sensor(s) replaced as one of the codes was no signal from the upstream sensor. I don't expect that to fix that issue.

I'll update when I have run the car and see what codes reappear. Hopefully it will give me a clue where to look next!

I feel somewhat hopeful the car can be saved, but at what cost?

I probably should check the coolant temp sensor to see if it is also contributing to the sold engine running issues, and hopefully the O2 sensor may help with the rich running.

Neil.

[scot850]

Since the last update, I have started some other threads to get eyes on stuff I need help with. I find when I post for help in a long thread like this I seldom get responses. I will try to add the links in so that information is not lost. I have taken the criticism on board all the same!
I'm hoping that once I get (hopefully) get past the engine issues this thread will need less help requests as it the rest of the stuff is normal wear and tear stuff like brakes and shocks.

The first link below is to get help on trying to figure out the rough running. It is still not entirely fixed. In the thread there is a list of the 10 codes that the engine check light system has thrown up. Some I believe may be old one thrown when the cam seal blew out.

viewtopic.php?t=105174

From the above thread I have got some great info and I have started to look at a way forward. I started to look into the Throttle body and the codes it is throwing. It would point to the TB being faulty. The only way to be sure is fit a replacement. However, they are expensive and I am not willing to spend the money on a Bosch new one (Volvo quoted my $1100 CDN for one today!). Junkyard units are ok, but they are often the reason cars end up there in the first place. However, that in turn threw up it's own issue with conflicting information on part numbers for the TB between Volvo numbers changing and Bosch also. The thread below is on that subject:

viewtopic.php?t=105189

I believe I have that resolved and identified the Bosch part number has changed. There is still some murky info on the Volvo part number on the websites and that on the part itself. Until I can see the part number on a 30711554 unit (should be the 0 280 750 131 Bosch part number) I may not be able to answer that one. With the Volvo part numbers sometimes being a kit of parts the individual parts sometimes do not show up in the Volvo databases as I found out from Volvo today. My mechanic friend has a used Volvo one I can try, and I may have a line on a low mileage ( <5000km) aftermarket Vemo one from a wrecked car. Still waiting on a price for that option. But either way I hopefully can find if it is a true fault in the ECM or a phantom one caused by something else but without a huge outlay.

In parallel, I have been looking into the ECM/ECU. I need to remove them to check them to see if there is an obvious reason for it having a hard fault. Steering fluid has been running un0schecked for a long time and has got into the ECM/TCM box at the bottom and may have contaminated the pins by wicking up the wire into the connectors on the bottoms of the units. I could not figure out where to get the tool needed for removal and through this thread not only bought one, but it turned out my mechanic friend has one and I hopefully can get that tomorrow. I will compare it with the 'cheap' Amazon unit I was shown a link to with my friends and see how it works. If it is bad, then it can go back. There is also some shade tree suggestions on how to remove the units without the tool. The thread on that is below:

viewtopic.php?t=105187

I also got some good pointers from jonesg that the cam code I have is not for the CVVT solenoid, but is for the cam position sensor on the back of the exhaust cam. So that needs to be investigated now. He also recommended smoking the intake. I had planned on that or doing the spray of WD40/brake cleaner also as it is quicker. I'll look at that as I have a brand new smoker in a box to try out.

So the great thing is I hopefully have way forward on all the current codes. I still want to take the car for a run to see if any other codes come up. I'm expecting an emissions leak code to come back as the engine has not run long enough to run a test.

As this is not the only car I am working on it is the last in the queue currently so it may have to wait for more work to be done. If I can ever figure out the issue with the 00 V70R driveline (the boss is on my case as she wants the car back!) then this can get closer to the top, but I can do stuff in between when tome allows.

Neil.

[scot850]

Today was good and bad. The bad was the low mileage TB did not happen. The plan to meet the seller failed when his car broke down. Hopefully it will happen as the price is good for a low mileage item than came from a T boned car. The junkyard wants about $65 + tax for an unknown part that is as old as this car is.

The good news part is that my mechanic buddy came through with the ECU/TCU removal tool and it looks like the one I ordered. He says it worked as well as the OE one he used at work. The other great part is that he also handed me a good used (date coded 2009) TB which he had even cleaned for me to try. If it works ok, I might just leave it in. Vida will have to get hooked up to do a reset. Never done that before, so a good learning exercise!

As I could not get the help to try to check out the R driveline noise on the hoist, I decided to carry on with the 02 XC70.

I decided to pull the cam sensor and see if it was dead or dirty causing the P0016 error code. I have detailed the work here in this thread as I have questions on cam testing and the torque value for the cam sensor wheel bolt torque:

viewtopic.php?p=651781#p651781

Again I was being stupid due to a lack of electrical knowledge that the only way to really test the cam sensor is to test voltage on it while the car is running. Decided to buy a cam and crank sensor on clearance from Rock Auto. Parts are SMP (Intermotor) . I used Intermotor parts on old Volvos for year in the UK when often that was all that was available. Cost including Monday delivery is $63 CDN (about $45 US). They will be fine for test parts and can then either stay on the car or if they make no change, I will re-install the originals and they can go into the PIF (Pay-it-forward) pile.

Slow progress, but progress all the same. Hopefully I can test the R tomorrow and get it fixed or at least mobile and off the hoist. I can then get the oil change and filter done. Not convinced that will help in this case, but it needs done anyway and maybe a miracle will happen!

Neil.