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2007 Volvo V50 Stalling and Power issues

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials devoted to the second generation C70, S40 and V50 Volvos -- awkwardly model year 2004 ½ onwards -- plus where to go for advice and discussion on Volvo's sporty C30 Coupe powered by Volvo's ubiquitous inline 5-cylinder power plant.
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mosesbuckwalter
Posts: 3
Joined: 19 September 2024
Year and Model: 2007 V50
Location: Lancaster, PA

2007 Volvo V50 Stalling and Power issues

Post by mosesbuckwalter »

Hello y'all! I'm hoping for some advice from some more experienced Volvo owners/mechs.

Background. 2007 Volvo V50, owned for about a year now. Regular oil changes, not driven heavily (at least when my wife is driving :)) Had a new head gasket in December. We were experiencing stalling this spring, diagnosed as throttle body, replaced and it’s been perfect ever since.

Fast forward to now. The issues started about 2 weeks ago. I pulled up to park on the street after a 30 minute drive from a cold start. I pulled up, and then backed up, turning my wheel slightly, and as I was backing up, the car half stalled. The radio cut out, “anti-skid temporarily disabled” flashed on the dash (roughly one second), and the rpms dropped, and then it came back. All is good. Upon restarting the car, it cycled through the 6 disc as if power had been cut.

Then fast forward a few days, my wife reports this happening again, multiple times. The half stall. The CD cycling has also occurred upon start up’s even if a half stall did not occur. Which, I have since then traced, to on certain occasions turning off the car, and pulling the key will result in the dash completely shutting down, instead of the time and milage remaining lit. Upon re-entering the key, and turning it, nothing happens, and then a second try will start the car. Time, trip meter, everything remains consistent after this dash shut off happens - for all the times I’ve been able to watch it happen, but I have noticed the trip meter being reset - and my wife reported that she didn’t do it, so on some occasions the trip meter will be reset due to these power issues. Every time the dash shuts down when pulling the key, the 6 disc will cycle through each one again (there are no discs in the changer).

Then there’s some more larger issues. On a ~70 mile drive from a cold start, a quick brake to rolling stop, and then going again, the car completely shut off (11:30 at night) lights, everything, while I was mid turn, and turned back on a second later and kept driving. This was pretty concerning. This has happened similarly one other time, it was during the day, so I’m not sure if the lights and everything went out, and it seemed to recover more quickly or not have completely stalled, but nonetheless, extremely concerning. Thankfully no cars were around either time.

In the same day, prior to the mid-turn stall there were a few issues, some of which I’ve been able to repeatedly replicate. I will list them below.

- Cold start, pulled out of parking space, drove ~10 ft, stopped, and went to accelerate after a stop sign and the car had shut off. - have not been able to replicate.

- Warm start, 15 minute drive. Pressing brakes and turning, the music would cut out, the numbers on the radio would disappear, and then come back. Interior and exterior lights remained on, including the radio. 12v bluetooth transmitter through the cigarette outlet remained fully powered, and music resumed shortly. - This seems to be able to be replicated by pressing the brakes and turning the wheel back and forth, and this will cut the radio for a brief second. This DOES NOT happen every time though, and is extremely intermittent. Some days it’ll happen every time you do it, other times it’s impossible to reproduce.

- Light flickering. While driving home (prior to the stall) the lights seemed to have a slight flicker to them while driving on the highway.

- In this same vein, I’ve noticed dash and radio lights having intermittent flickers, especially when (possibly anecdotal) turning wheel and pressing the brakes.

Now, since then, with the exception of the one instance. There have been limited partial or complete stalls. However, I’ve also experienced another issue with the radio briefly cutting out, and interior dash and radio illumination flickering when playing a song at a high volume. This only occurred once, have not reproduced.


This also could be anecdotal, but seemingly most of the half stalls occur in reverse. Also, notably, most of the time the air control was off, or set to low.


Lastly, there have been no check engine lights, with the exclusion of one the other day, which my wife said occurred after she accidentally bumped the car into M and drove in 3rd gear for awhile. The RPMs didn’t get above 4000, she realized when she noticed the increased noise level around 3000 RPMs and from there switched back into drive. The code is a catalytic code P0420. It was cleared and driven for ~100 miles with no return yet. It could be anecdotal that driving in M would have caused the RPMS to rev higher than usual for longer than usual and outputted more exhaust than typical, triggering a code, but it’s possible. That said, I’ve reved higher than that before on acceleration, and have never gotten such code.

And (finally?), most likely completely coincidental, but given the flickering, I thought it was worth noting that the one low beam bulb went out. Again, probably a coincidence, but given the intermittent flickering, I thought it could be worth noting, that maybe somehow a shortage of power could have caused the failure.


So, I know that’s a lot of information, and a lot of it is completely random, but if anyone has any idea’s as to where to even start with diagnosing this, that would be great, thanks!

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

Welcome to MVS. Low hanging fruit first: how old is the battery? Is it providing 12.6V or better while cold, parked, and off (all at once)? Does its capacity meet V50 requirements?
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mosesbuckwalter
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Joined: 19 September 2024
Year and Model: 2007 V50
Location: Lancaster, PA

Post by mosesbuckwalter »

matthew1 wrote: 19 Sep 2024, 09:22 Welcome to MVS. Low hanging fruit first: how old is the battery? Is it providing 12.6V or better while cold, parked, and off (all at once)? Does its capacity meet V50 requirements?
Hey Matt, thanks!

I have a code reader (xtool) and IIRC it was reading 12.something while driving. I will check it with a multimeter tonight. Is an hour enough time to be considered "cold"?

I've had it for a year, so that's as much history as I have on the battery ATM, I will check the date on it when my wife gets home from work.

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Post by matthew1 »

I'm not great with car electrics, but I think "cold" for a battery test would be just a few minutes after shutoff. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

While running, it should be 13.5 or 13.6V.
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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

I'd test with a multimeter.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

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Post by crazycat »

I had some very similar issues with my 05 S40 electrical power cutting out and stalling. It wound up being my ignition switch needing to be replaced. The internal contacts were going bad and giving me intermittent problems. I don’t remember there being a specific code for it though.

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Post by Krons »

mosesbuckwalter wrote: 19 Sep 2024, 09:30 I have a code reader (xtool) and IIRC it was reading 12.something while driving. I will check it with a multimeter tonight. Is an hour enough time to be considered "cold"?
I’m with Matt the running voltage should be 13+V. Could be an intermittent alternator issue causing the car to shut down…often if alternator is fully failed the battery will run down, car stalls and it won’t restart. If you can restart maybe the regulator in the alternator is allowing too much voltage and system is shutting down.

Any codes? I would also check your main power and ground locations, if one of those is loose it could cause the car to lose all power.
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mosesbuckwalter
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Post by mosesbuckwalter »

matthew1 wrote: 19 Sep 2024, 10:05 I'd test with a multimeter.
Just tested cold and on with a multimeter. Seems to be in good shape. 12.6 cold and 13.7 ish and fluctuating when on.

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Post by packetfire »

The sudden shutdowns are a bad connection, not a bad alternator. Start with the alternator connections, though, as this is where the power comes from to run the car. (One CAN run a car's spark plugs on pure battery for a little while with a dead generator/alternator, but that would be a simple car with no computers, like an MG.) Then move on to the ignition switch.

You are losing power, but note that you are twisting or turning the car, so trying wiggling the ignition key in the ignition to see if you can make it fail - my bet is that you will make it fail with wiggling the key alone. It is strange that you are going from "run" (position 2) to "off", as one would think that you would only fall back to position 1, but this would not explain the stereo getting power-cyled, as the stereo works in key Position 1. So, it is not merely a worn/loose ignition switch, it is more likely an internal failure in the contacts themselves within the switch.
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