What did you do on your P1 Volvo today? Topic is solved

[BlackBart]

I've always liked the design of the V50. Of course you know it was a joint venture with Mazda, so it's in a different size class than the "big" wagons. I came close to buying one, but we had things to carry and kids to haul.

The tuning company HEICO built some nice ones, and has suspension, performance, and appearance parts for them.

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[crazycat]

Got my head gasket job all buttoned up, finally. Removed the fuel pump fuse for the first few cranks, to help prime the oil, and when I replaced it I had no fuel in the rail. Messed with that for a while and then eventually cleaned all the CEM connectors, problem solved. This v50 was WET and moldy inside for a couple years. Fired the motor up today and had a LOT of foul smelling exhaust. I’m thinking/hoping it was the leftover 4 year old gas( about a 1/4 tank) that I added 5 gallons of new gas to. After the CEM cleaning all 10 codes went away. Now just an ambient air temperature sensor is showing up as bad. Stoked on this m56 2.4i wagon. Also, my interior fan won’t work, it must be corroded frozen or an electrical connection is corroded and needs cleaning. Took it for a 5mile drive and the smoking exhaust is 90% gone. I have a whole nice condition leather interior and carpets to install once I solve the door seal leak issues.

[C30Newbie]

Well I just had quite a fight with my C30, I installed the adjustable camber arms on the rear suspension. A fairly simple job with four bolts turned into a knock down drag out fight for eight hours. Now please understand I'm nobody's idea of a good or experienced car mechanic, and I don't have a garage full of cool car tools (I have cool airplane tools instead, and they're a lot smaller and lighter duty than car tools).

But regardless of having to borrow a couple of car size tools from a friend, the bottom line is that the upper (inboard) attachment bolts are very very hard to get tools lined up and positioned to remove and install. Lots of stuff in the way of putting the tools straight onto the bolt head.

The passenger side was an extra innings death match fight, because there is some kind of electric or electro-pneumatic module mounted right in front of the bolt... first to block the socket from reaching it and then to prevent the bolt from sliding out of the mount.

It was a struggle to remove three T-25 screws that mount this module, and even after it was dismounted from the bracket you couldn't move it far enough out of the way to get the socket and extension in. Then you had to bend the bracket itself out of the way. After about ten tries and some very high volume and questionable language... I finally got it out. Getting it back in past that module was another wrestling match indeed.

But after all that cursing, I got the adjustable camber arms in. I had bought the lower priced ones on Amazon, they wound up only costing $58 for the pair. I took a wild guess and screwed out the adjustment fitting until it was half a bolt diameter longer than the OEM control arms. Just by eyeball estimate, the negative camber is gone and I might have gone to a smidge of positive camber. Obviously, the car will soon be headed to the alignment shop, where they will be able to set it up "square" or whatever the alignment expert recommends.

But I have the adjustable arms installed, which is a huge victory for a total hack inexperienced amateur mechanic!

[volvolugnut]

This v50 was WET and moldy inside for a couple years.
Also, my interior fan won’t work, it must be corroded frozen or an electrical connection is corroded and needs cleaning.

I had to check your location after these comments.
I guess you are in the rainy part of Washington state.

volvolugnut

[BlackBart]

The left half?

[scot850]

Been a bit, but today I helped my former Volvo mechanic buddy go to the junkyard to pull an engine block for his poorly C30. It has rod knock to the plan is to swap the blocks over as the top is sound as are all the other parts.

Man, out local PnP (maybe they al are now?) has become a bunch of bandits. Latest logic is a short block is now charged as a full engine, but you can still buy a head for a lower price?? It came to $500 for a junkyard short block with no ancillaries. $400 CDN for the block, $50 for a core charge, $25 'environmental' fees, and $25 tax. What a rip for 4 hours in 2C with a cold wind standing on wet sheet ice with occasional snow flurries. I'm only glad I took my ice grippers on my boots!

Neil.

[abscate]

When did Core CHarges at junkyards become a thing??

[howdimissu]

I prayed that my F-I-L didn't screw up the timing belt replacement process. He told me 2 weeks ago that he just needed to install a plate for the (Rear Timing cover plate, or something like that) because he did the timing belt, tensioner, pulley, and water pump replacement. Again, that was two weeks ago. He hasn't gone out to the garage in over a week and won't talk to me about it. I think he knows my engine is going to blow because he didn't follow the video from FCP EURO's YouTube channel. Every single step was laid out there, but because of his pride I'm sure he never watched it. I know nothing about working on cars, but I studied that video hour after hour, over and over. I felt really confident, but he told me he's got it. He was a Ford Master Mechanic when my car came out (And Ford Owned Volvo), so he said he would do it. I figured alright, he fixes cars all the time, and that prevented me from going to a mechanic because he'd feel insulted. Now it's been two weeks since that plate came in, and I wish he'd just tell me the engine is fucked so I can proceed with my life. The car feels like an extension of my body. I adore it. I'll be crushed if it's blown. That car feels like an extension of my body. So, please pray to the Volvo powers that be, that my engine doesn't become a really expensive paperweight. I got the locking tools and everything. I should have supervised it, but then he'd be even more pissed. I hope everyone has a blessed day!

[crazycat]

I prayed that my F-I-L didn't screw up the timing belt replacement process. He told me 2 weeks ago that he just needed to install a plate for the (Rear Timing cover plate, or something like that) because he did the timing belt, tensioner, pulley, and water pump replacement. Again, that was two weeks ago. He hasn't gone out to the garage in over a week and won't talk to me about it. I think he knows my engine is going to blow because he didn't follow the video from FCP EURO's YouTube channel. Every single step was laid out there, but because of his pride I'm sure he never watched it. I know nothing about working on cars, but I studied that video hour after hour, over and over. I felt really confident, but he told me he's got it. He was a Ford Master Mechanic when my car came out (And Ford Owned Volvo), so he said he would do it. I figured alright, he fixes cars all the time, and that prevented me from going to a mechanic because he'd feel insulted. Now it's been two weeks since that plate came in, and I wish he'd just tell me the engine is fucked so I can proceed with my life. The car feels like an extension of my body. I adore it. I'll be crushed if it's blown. That car feels like an extension of my body. So, please pray to the Volvo powers that be, that my engine doesn't become a really expensive paperweight. I got the locking tools and everything. I should have supervised it, but then he'd be even more pissed. I hope everyone has a blessed day!

Most importantly, besides prayer, would be to get him to turn the engine over, 2-3 times by hand, using the crank pulley and a socket and wrench. It should spin, with some resistance from the compression, but it should not bind up. If it’s binding, that means it’s out of time and valves are hitting pistons.

[howdimissu]

EDIT 3: The 2011 C30 T5 M66 is 100% running great! I suppose I'll just leave it this way for a week or so and can now return to bringing all the sensors and OEM/ parts (Thermostat, spark plugs etc.)up to date, sometime replacing OEM with performance parts (Like the CBV, TCV [High heat capabilities], Turbo inlet pipe,etc... in order to make sure she has everything working efficiently to the degree that it was when it was brand new, but with a side of limits being able to be pushed on it before tuning the car. After I do all the boost parts correctly and switch to a bigger FMIC (Already owed just not installed because it's very hot and very muggy where I live). I'm going to drive it without any tune (after installing the bigger FMIC), and after I've replaced all the OEM + parts to see if the system breathes better and without the heat soak that it's probably feeling every day when it's 100+ weather, muggy outside. If it's running great, I'll try the stage 2 tune, and go from there.

Gentlemen and ladies, thank you for your time, and now I can say what I installed on my P1 Volvo now. I just finished changing out the boost hoses with 6m double-ply silicone hoses. Furthermore, currently purchasing a few parts to change out with mostly sensors and gauges to monitor the changes,