Sway Bar End Link Removal (2004 V70)

Post by **BobbyC777** » 03 Feb 2025, 06:43

Gang -

I was doing some initial prep for replacing struts on my '04 V70 - spraying penetrating oil on nuts, etc. I noticed that the upper sway bar end link bolt did NOT have a Torx or Allen fitting at the end of it to keep it from spinning when undoing the nut. The factory links were replaced a long time ago and an aftermarket part. When I put the impact driver on it the nut & bolt assembly just spun. There is a thin nut on the inside of the flange. Not sure I can get a wrench on it but if I could then maybe that would be the solution. Or I could cut the nut off with a grinding wheel. Or maybe get some thin nose vice grips onto the bolt to keep it from spinning. Ideas? Thanks!

Post by **vtl** » 03 Feb 2025, 07:23

Induction heater will help.

Post by **cn90** » 03 Feb 2025, 07:30

Measure it, it may be 16-mm.
I had the same issue with my 1998 BMW 528i, a trip to bicycle store to buy a thin wrench worked!
Of course, use the thin wrench with propane heat on the nut side.

Post by **vtl** » 03 Feb 2025, 07:33

cn90 wrote: ↑03 Feb 2025, 07:30 Measure it, it may be 16-mm.
I had the same issue with my 1998 BMW 528i, a trip to bicycle store to buy a thin wrench worked!
Of course, use the thin wrench with propane heat on the nut side.

Can boil the strut.

Post by **xHeart** » 03 Feb 2025, 07:53

cn90 wrote: ↑03 Feb 2025, 07:30 Measure it, it may be 16-mm.
I had the same issue with my 1998 BMW 528i, a trip to bicycle store to buy a thin wrench worked!
Of course, use the thin wrench with propane heat on the nut side.

I use an open end wrench from Harbor Freight - PITTSBURGH; it has the right depth. It slides over the counter hold with slight resistance against the rubber boot - fits. Clean and spray with lubricant first -- it always works!

Post by **cn90** » 03 Feb 2025, 09:12

- Bicycle wrench.
- Point propane torch at 45-degree angles at the nut, away from the strut tube.
- Zero issues.

Post by **BobbyC777** » 03 Feb 2025, 09:56

Is this thin inner nut only present on aftermarket end links without the Torx or Allen fitting at bolt end? If I manage to get the thin bicycle wrench onto this thin inner nut will it move down the bolt (to left in my photo) towards ball-joint and eventually make the bolt bind & stop spinning so that the big outer nut will come off?

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Feb 2025, 15:11

Yes, I have only seen it in place of the hex or Torx, not in addition to it.

I have used just a regular wrench but a thin wrench will work for sure. In your pic it looks like the boot is messed up enough that there is room to get a regular wrench in there, check it. I actually prefer the wrench style to the torx, I keep breaking those off in the end link ...

Since you have an impact and that nut shows minimal corrosion it seems very unlikely you'll need heat, it should pop right off once you get a wrench on the back side.

Angle grinder with cutoff wheel on the nut works too, I used that approach a few months ago on a troublesome end link. Or google "nut splitter" I've done art that way too but couldn't find my nut splitter so I just cut it off.

This issue with the end links is common and usually pretty easy to solve, just dig in to it.

Post by **cn90** » 03 Feb 2025, 15:52

This is a photo from my 1998 BMW 528i end link....you can see the thin 16-mm wrench there...

Post by **BobbyC777** » 03 Feb 2025, 17:12

I took the car out today & what a racket! So I guess I did loosen that upper end link assembly. I can endure a lot of noise but knew I couldn't abide that for long. I wasn't concerned that it was a safety factor. I looked things over and discovered that the inner nut (a) was not all that thin (b) and that it only had 2 flats. It appears to be 16 mm. Guess what wrench I don't have! [Now that I am back inside I wonder if a 5/8" would have worked? It's 0.0049" too small - that's about 15.9 mm]. ANYHOW, I managed to get a 17mm open end on that 2 flatted inner nut and with a ratchet tightened the outer 18 mm nut. The outer nut & bolt turned together but that brought the inner nut tight to the flange on the strut. (I should have mentioned that today I was just trying to tighten it in hopes that the godawful continuous clunk would abate. Later I will retackle trying to remove the link.) I took it for a test ride and no clunks! Sort of a break even - I learned some stuff and at least I'm back to where I started.

While under the car I checked out the lower end link as best I could. There is a recess in the bolt but it doesn't appear to be a Torx or Allen. Could it be there to facilitate a puller? I doubt that anyone rebuilds end links. I've included a picture. The upper bolt does not have this recess.

Thanks for your help. I'll try to scrounge up a 16 mm open end.

Bob