04 v70, oil leak+no vac at dipstick Topic is solved

[22volvo]

Thanks for the photo that helped.
From my angle from the top it's hard to get them aligned perfectly but I got them close.

Rotating clockwise until found

Now the camshafts slots are almost horizontal. I can work with that. I'll pull the crankshaft pulley so I can get the timing marks perfect then I'll install the cam lock tool and commence pulling the hubs then the crank sprocket.

50k on the timing belt/pump/tensioner so I'll replace the belt but leave the tensioner and water pump.

Thanks again for the help.

[vtl]

Thanks for the photo that helped.
From my angle from the top it's hard to get them aligned perfectly but I got them close.

Photo_2025-03-01 10_05_23_354.JPG

Now the camshafts slots are almost horizontal. I can work with that. I'll pull the crankshaft pulley so I can get the timing marks perfect then I'll install the cam lock tool and commence pulling the hubs then the crank sprocket.

50k on the timing belt/pump/tensioner so I'll replace the belt but leave the tensioner and water pump.

Thanks again for the help.

Timing belt failures are in fact tensioner failures. You may leave your old t-belt, but must replace the tensioner. But really, replace both.

Do you have an impact wrench? Removing/installing crankshaft pulley is very easy with an impact. While the old belt is still there, use an oil marker or white paper corrector to mark belt position on the pulleys, a couple of marks on each pulley. Remove the belt, transfer the marks to the new belt, install it. This way you can be 100% sure you didn't skip a tooth. Also large binder clips on camshaft pulleys help a lot to keep the belt in place while you are routing it around crankshaft sprocket/tensioner/water pump. I don't use any locking tools for the timing belt.

[22volvo]

So I'll close this thread out with the oil leak resolved.
The exhaust hub had a lot of play and both front oil seals were bottomed out. So that was the leak.

What I accomplished this weekend:
- front and rear camshaft oil seals
- exhaust hub replaced
- intake hub reinstalled with new o-ring.
Timing belt with 50k reinstalled it looked good. Xyl is putting 10K a year on the car so I'm good with that.

What didn't work out:
I was unable to remove the crank sprocket so did not replace the front crank oil seal. It's not leaking.
I was unable to get my torque wrench on the exhaust hub t55. Wiring harness was in the way. Instead I estimate 70 to 90 lb on that bolt using my 3-ft breaker bar.

As always appreciate the help from the community here.

[jonesg]

So I'll close this thread out with the oil leak resolved.
The exhaust hub had a lot of play and both front oil seals were bottomed out. So that was the leak.

What I accomplished this weekend:
- front and rear camshaft oil seals
- exhaust hub replaced
- intake hub reinstalled with new o-ring.
Timing belt with 50k reinstalled it looked good. Xyl is putting 10K a year on the car so I'm good with that.

What didn't work out:
I was unable to remove the crank sprocket so did not replace the front crank oil seal. It's not leaking.
I was unable to get my torque wrench on the exhaust hub t55. Wiring harness was in the way. Instead I estimate 70 to 90 lb on that bolt using my 3-ft breaker bar.

As always appreciate the help from the community here.

I used a gear puller to pull the crank gear, the splines were damaged, the 32mm nut had gone awol.
If you had it off keep an eye on it, ... I went back with blue loctite and an impact.

[abscate]

You need bright light and cleaner to see the crank marks

Set crank mark
Set cam dogs horizontal. Intake up, exhaust down

Now confirm cam gear timing marks.