What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 09 Mar 2025, 13:19

There's a dilemma out there about the upper torque mount on the gasoline engines. Are you supposed to torque the center bolt as much as you possibly can, or should there be some slack to it? And should it be done on a running engine or not? The dilemma stems from the fact that the bolt hole for the upper torque mount is larger than the bolt itself, so someone out there said you aren't supposed to torque it completely so the bolt can move slightly in the hole itself.

I've personally done some experiments. If you tighten the nut while the engine has moved forwards(upwards if you look at it from the side), there is increased vibration but much less movement, giving way to a much more pleasant shifting. If I tighten it normally, with the engine being at rest, there is less vibration, but much more engine movement when giving it gas(flooring it from 0), slamming even.

Post by **850 LPT** » 09 Mar 2025, 14:26

dikidera wrote: ↑09 Mar 2025, 13:19 There's a dilemma out there about the upper torque mount on the gasoline engines. Are you supposed to torque the center bolt as much as you possibly can, or should there be some slack to it? And should it be done on a running engine or not? The dilemma stems from the fact that the bolt hole for the upper torque mount is larger than the bolt itself, so someone out there said you aren't supposed to torque it completely so the bolt can move slightly in the hole itself.

I've personally done some experiments. If you tighten the nut while the engine has moved forwards(upwards if you look at it from the side), there is increased vibration but much less movement, giving way to a much more pleasant shifting. If I tighten it normally, with the engine being at rest, there is less vibration, but much more engine movement when giving it gas(flooring it from 0), slamming even.

Well, this is eye opening for me. I replaced both the upper and the lower torque mounts on my daughters 03' V70 2.4T a while ago because they were shot, and I was baffled by the fact that there is now a lot of vibration going through the car while idling. Next time the car is here, I will take another look.

Post by **scot850** » 09 Mar 2025, 16:23

Is there not a torque setting for the top mount?

Neil.

Post by **vtl** » 10 Mar 2025, 05:39

Top mount bolt should be torqued well. Rubber it compressed should allow some movement. I torque it down with the engine is running. Can always switch to neutral on a long traffic light.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 10 Mar 2025, 06:55

I must say it was a shite job. 0/10 I wouldn't try again. The AW55 will not come out unless you significantly drop the engine down enough. And the biggest culprit was the torque converter which decided it will stay on the flywheel and as such you did not have enough space to overcome the rim of the torque converter as the AW55 was literally hitting the chassis.

Had the torque converter stayed on the transmission or in fact could come out of the flywheel, this wouldn't have been necessary. To make matters worse, part of the electrical installation for the oxygen sensors had caught itself in a very bad position and was pulled very hard I do hope it still works.

Post by **vtl** » 10 Mar 2025, 07:03

It is hard only the first time

I did like 3, the last one was easy-peasy.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 10 Mar 2025, 07:05

Would you say the TC must now be on the flywheel bolted down or on the transmissions when I am installing the new one?

Post by **vtl** » 10 Mar 2025, 07:10

dikidera wrote: ↑10 Mar 2025, 07:05 Would you say the TC must now be on the flywheel bolted down or on the transmissions when I am installing the new one?

Absolutely not. It is likely rusted to the flywheel. Make sure something catches it up, since it is heavy itself, plus contains about 2-3 liters of ATF, and start prying it off the flywheel gently. You don't want to damage the flywheel or you gonna replace it. Also clean the contact pads on the flywheel, it should mate to the TC absolutely flush.

Post by **vtl** » 10 Mar 2025, 07:15

Now you have the first hands experience with dropping transmission off, you understand how labor intensive it is. Now go ahead and replace the rear main seal

Or at least be mentally ready that RMS will leak soon and you have to go all over this again.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 10 Mar 2025, 07:27

vtl wrote: ↑10 Mar 2025, 07:10
dikidera wrote: ↑10 Mar 2025, 07:05 Would you say the TC must now be on the flywheel bolted down or on the transmissions when I am installing the new one?
Absolutely not. It is likely rusted to the flywheel. Make sure something catches it up, since it is heavy itself, plus contains about 2-3 liters of ATF, and start prying it off the flywheel gently. You don't want to damage the flywheel or you gonna replace it. Also clean the contact pads on the flywheel, it should mate to the TC absolutely flush.

I meant when reinstalling the transmission. Should the torque converter be inside the transmission or should it first be bolted to the flywheel?

As for RMS, I am bad with seals , it will leak because of me, not be fixed by me

. Just ask the cam seals which didn't stop leaking after twice being replaced.

Btw, the flywheel is so bendy! I hope I didnt ruin it from the screwdriver I was pushing slightly to pry out the TC

What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?