A $100 '99 V70 GLT Topic is solved

[Sveedy]

Decided to tackle the drivers side door issues today.
A previous owner had sprung the door so badly that it had scuffed the door trim on the fender, as well as making a hellacious noise when being opened or closed. When I took the door off, I found a gaping hole where half of the door check should be.

Fishing around with a magnet I found the missing part down in the jamb. No way to get it out without cutting the opening larger. Then start welding everything back together.

Not easy. And not pretty. The body is two thin pieces of stamped steel which tend to burn through, and the check strap base is a solid 2 - 3mm thick.
But I got it to work, and then made a reinforcing plate to weld over everything. The plate tucks behind the welded nut of the strap base, so even with force it shouldn't fail again.

Door went back on and works silently.

[pfmet]

Great repair.. I like that.

[Sveedy]

^ Thanks, but I'm really more of a saw dust maker than welder.

Over the last few days, I've mostly been continuing on cleaning. I soaked the cylinders in Marvel Mystery Oil overnight before rotating the crank. I could see a little surface rust in a couple of places, so I worked those spots with a rag and rust remover. I really don't want to use anything more aggressive than that if possible. Then wiped them again with more M.M. oil.

Next up was the turbo. It cleaned up fine but I am not sure if it needs rebuilding. I can feel just a slight amount of play side to side on the turbine, but I don't know how much if any is okay.

And here's a gem. This is what I found when I replaced the sump oil o-rings. The old ones were understandably brittle, but one of them had been installed using the " I guess it might work " method.

Camera picked up oil film color. Looks like that o-ring just barely sealed.

[scot850]

That was a lucky find indeed. That repair was inspired for the door check as well. This project is running along nicely. What turbo is it you have in the car? Is it a 13G? I have a good one that has been sitting in my garage for a long time that I had checked by a dealer foreman and he said it had no shaft play. A little play is ok, as long as it is not catching the sides!

Neil.

[Sveedy]

Yes it is a 13G and thank you for that info.
Well after today's junkyard scavenger fest, I am down to just a missing heat shield for over the exhaust manifold and the top half of the air filter box.
On the table today, a MAF sensor, lower wind shield trim piece, a coolant recovery bottle, and 2 out of the 3 pieces that make up the timing belt cover.

Oh, and then there was this find.

I have new head bolts so now I'm down to the point of buying the head gasket set, timing set etc which is going to have to wait a few weeks, due to life getting in the way of living.
But I still have the seats to switch out and some other things as well, so progress will be made.

[abscate]

The first perceptible feel of play by hand is about 0.001” or 0.025 Canadian thousands. That’s when you will just detect axial play on a bearing for example.

I don’t know what the turbo spec is but I’m guessing is bigger than this. It spins on a film of clean oil pressure so it can probably tolerate 0.006 or 0.15mm easily

[Sveedy]

Today I finally found an inner timing belt cover which wasn't broken, which I then promptly broke.
Of the three pieces that make up the belt cover, this inner piece is the only one that is discontinued. The ones I've been finding have all been busted up, and now I can see why. Even after removing the bolts, idler pulley, and both cam sprockets, I still could not get it out. But it only broke in a couple of places which I fixed. It still is missing a small piece below the idler pulley, but I think this will be fine. Guess I'll find out as it goes back together.

Also cleaned up the oil cooler. After a soaking in cleaner, I blasted water through it with a hose. A surprising amount of gunk came out.
I've ordered the longer cooler hose, but again the short one is discontinued and only available from URO. Not going there, so I'm going to take both hoses to a couple of local parts stores and see if any more standard hose might be able to be modified to work. I have plenty of straight 5/8" hose that will work for the small hose, but the 180* bend in the long one would be nice to find.

[abscate]

The stock ones come zip tied together from Sweden/Brussels so you can do that too. Generic heater hose of a decent brand is fine there , Gates or the like. What’s the ID?

More info here

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=70813&p=372339#p372339

[Clemens]

On a side note: I've been running my 94 T5 and my 96 R without a heat shield for years.
I'm sure they're good for something, but I don't know what for exactly. Maybe the main benefit is that people don't get scared staring at a glooming red turbo when opening the hood at night.
Reason I'm running without them is that I actually think it's better to let the heat escape rather than trapping it under the heatshield.

[abscate]

I’ve got an NA top filter box, will that work Sveedy?