I’ve never taken a trans out from underneath but I only do manual cars where you can’t do this.
If you gave an engine hoist, take the whole assembly out top and separate on bench. Much easier to do all the other stuff, too.
Newly purchased 06 XC70 tranny fluid swap
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Re: Newly purchased 06 XC70 tranny fluid swap
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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ChattownXC70
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Hmmm. You know, I never even thought about that. Just because everything I read had everything coming out the bottom. Even with the engine attached. I will look it over today and get a plan together.
2006 XC70 2.5T
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Harbor Fright smallest stand about $120
Load leveler (recommended) $50
Snap ping.... no messing with subframe and suspension crap.
Load leveler (recommended) $50
Snap ping.... no messing with subframe and suspension crap.
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Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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ChattownXC70
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I already have the hoist and load leveler. I haven’t fooled with the Volvo today but may fart around with it after while. I’ve already undone the suspension bits but not the steering. I guess I could do it either way at this point. I’ll report back tonight or tomorrow. I’m hoping either way I go it will be out in a fairly short amount of time but we will see haha.
I did order a boot n go and mongoose from Dave today so at least I’ll have that ready when I get the car back together.
I did order a boot n go and mongoose from Dave today so at least I’ll have that ready when I get the car back together.
2006 XC70 2.5T
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vtl
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Remove the axles and angle gear. Unbolt torque converter from flywheel. Disconnect the steering shaft bolt under the dash and tie the steering rack up to the front coils. Support the engine. Drop the subframe (just the subframe). Hang the transmission on the hoist, unbolt transmission's bell housing, start tilting the engine/transmission combo downward on the driver side, it will eventually separate. Lower down on dolly, pull out.
The reason for ATF is so black in your original transmission is that the torque converter locking friction failed. It took out valve body as well. Upon closer inspection you will find a lot of mechanical wear in the transmission as well, which is pretty normal for what they are.
I would replace torque converter and valve body in your new to your transmission. It will cure 90% problems with it.
Also check for signs of RMS leak. A perfect time to replace it.
The reason for ATF is so black in your original transmission is that the torque converter locking friction failed. It took out valve body as well. Upon closer inspection you will find a lot of mechanical wear in the transmission as well, which is pretty normal for what they are.
I would replace torque converter and valve body in your new to your transmission. It will cure 90% problems with it.
Also check for signs of RMS leak. A perfect time to replace it.
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ChattownXC70
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Ok sounds like I’m nearly there for that way. I’ll hopefully get it out tomorrow. I’ve been spending time with the wife today and tomorrow have to help a buddy for a while but should have a few hours to work on it.
Is there a reputable brand for the torque convertor? I haven’t even begun to look at them. I figured I’d slap this whole junkyard trans in without messing with it with my fingers crossed lol. Then I was planning to rebuild my original trans and get a new vb and convertor for when this junkyard one fails. It has 151k miles. The fluid is better than mine by far so I’m hopeful it’s gonna motivate Ruby Sue on down the road.
I did think about the rms. I plan to do it while I have access. I mean even if it’s not leaking might as well.
That makes sense about the fluid being so dark. I’m sure everything that moves inside that thing was getting hot as crap and is now worn slap out the way it was slipping and jerking. I’m sure it will be interesting to take apart and inspect.
Thank you all for your continued help! I really appreciate it!
Is there a reputable brand for the torque convertor? I haven’t even begun to look at them. I figured I’d slap this whole junkyard trans in without messing with it with my fingers crossed lol. Then I was planning to rebuild my original trans and get a new vb and convertor for when this junkyard one fails. It has 151k miles. The fluid is better than mine by far so I’m hopeful it’s gonna motivate Ruby Sue on down the road.
I did think about the rms. I plan to do it while I have access. I mean even if it’s not leaking might as well.
That makes sense about the fluid being so dark. I’m sure everything that moves inside that thing was getting hot as crap and is now worn slap out the way it was slipping and jerking. I’m sure it will be interesting to take apart and inspect.
Thank you all for your continued help! I really appreciate it!
2006 XC70 2.5T
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ChattownXC70
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Well, I cut and split wood for about 3 hours today helping my buddy. After that started messing with the Volvo but didn’t get very far. The torque convertor bolts are out, steering joint is out, angle gear bolts are loose to trans and the bolts are out of the driveshaft flex joint but I can’t for the life of me get it to separate from the angle gear. I tapped it with an aluminum drift and I’m afraid that I bent the lip of the thing. Maybe not but where I gave it a few taps was prob not the best place to apply force. But it does looks a bit misshapen. Does everyone remove the exhaust to do this? I have not and it has been right in the way all day. Also it seems as if in the past an aftermarket flex section has been welded in and the downpipe from the turbo to the flange in front of the resonator is a bit wonky. It doesn’t leak or anything but the hangers are all “custom” haha.
I may have to pump the brakes on the Volvo for a few. My dad is not doing well and hospice has given us 24-48 hours so I’ll keep everyone posted when I make progress again. Thank everyone again for all the help it is much appreciated!
I may have to pump the brakes on the Volvo for a few. My dad is not doing well and hospice has given us 24-48 hours so I’ll keep everyone posted when I make progress again. Thank everyone again for all the help it is much appreciated!
2006 XC70 2.5T
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Erik has the best description of separating XC driveshafts , which I’ve done once and don’t remember the trick. He’ll chime in here soon
Empty Nester
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vtl
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You mean the front CV joint rusted to the flange? That never happened to me, usually the rear is the one that rusts badly. Yes, to remove the driveshaft you need to lower the exhaust (unhang in the middle and in the back), slack the rear flange bolts and remove the center support. But for AG removal all you need is to separate the CV from flange, and now you'll have space to wiggle the AG.ChattownXC70 wrote: ↑17 Mar 2025, 15:52 The torque convertor bolts are out, steering joint is out, angle gear bolts are loose to trans and the bolts are out of the driveshaft flex joint but I can’t for the life of me get it to separate from the angle gear. I tapped it with an aluminum drift and I’m afraid that I bent the lip of the thing. Maybe not but where I gave it a few taps was prob not the best place to apply force. But it does looks a bit misshapen. Does everyone remove the exhaust to do this?
I think you can actually leave it hanging. Just support it somehow, so it won't damage the CV joint. My bad memory pictures me doing something like that years and years ago.
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Sorry to hear and we wish you the best ChattownXC70. When you get back to it, regarding the driveshaft:
1.) you must detach the carrier bearing in the center of the car to give the shaft some flex and working room. First remove the big metal bracket, then remove the bolts holding the bearing up.
2.) To release the driveshaft CV from the flange the key is to get an air hammer in there - front CV usually pops out effortlessly with an air hammer and a long pointy bit, using a socket head cap screw as a punch through one of the free holes in the flange.
viewtopic.php?t=96141&hilit=remove+angl ... r&start=10
viewtopic.php?p=589145&hilit=air+hammer ... ew#p589145
1.) you must detach the carrier bearing in the center of the car to give the shaft some flex and working room. First remove the big metal bracket, then remove the bolts holding the bearing up.
2.) To release the driveshaft CV from the flange the key is to get an air hammer in there - front CV usually pops out effortlessly with an air hammer and a long pointy bit, using a socket head cap screw as a punch through one of the free holes in the flange.
viewtopic.php?t=96141&hilit=remove+angl ... r&start=10
viewtopic.php?p=589145&hilit=air+hammer ... ew#p589145
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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