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2000 S70 - How Bad Did I Just Blow Up My Engine?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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abscate
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Re: 2000 S70 - How Bad Did I Just Blow Up My Engine

Post by abscate »

tjmartin317 wrote: 01 Apr 2025, 20:03 A thrilling update: as I went to do my test this evening, for a moment, the engine would do nothing. I could hear the starter attempt to move it but no cranks.

Then I let it sit a minute, or maybe 30 seconds, and tried again. Slow crank, to start. Idled a moment, revved and the noise increased with RPM, and released to hear the clinking and clanking described above… so yeah, it’s bad.

Even still, I know someone who does do engine rebuilds of this nature, and does them well. I’ll be getting his consensus but… yeah… it’s not a great prognosis.
You aren’t doing much, if any damage at no load ( don’t move car) but I was going to suggest you idle for 5 minutes then dump the oil to inspect it. It’s probably impressive and you can share the pictures or even coffee filter strain it for us.
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tjmartin317
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Post by tjmartin317 »

Hello again. An interesting proposition has been brought to my attention.

Considering I'll be removing the engine and rebuilding it, trying to get new bearings and all, it's come to my attention that, if the crankshaft is undamaged, the pistons and therefore bearings can be removed without actually removing the engine... and part of me feels this might be the better route to go.

Logistically, I'd be able to start picking the engine apart now while it's parked in my gravel parking area, and I'd be able to keep that damn driver's side CV axle installed (I don't wish that job on my worst enemy). In order to get the pistons out, it seems I'd have to remove the head, then remove the pan. Hell, as I'm grasping the idea of engine internals, I'm beginning to think the pistons don't have to come out. Just the rod bearings, as they're the source of the problem...

And worst case scenario, if I discover there's been more damage than anticipated, everything is, for the most part, removed and the engine can come out in a smaller chunk... perhaps?

It's a hairbrained idea, I'm still workshopping my plan, but I did get the Haynes manual (that runs to 99 but it sounds like it'll cover 2000s cars too, save for all the electric throttle stuff that I'm already somewhat familiar with).

Is this a bad idea?
2012 Acura TSX Wagon (Iris - Practical Daily)
2000 Volvo S70 (Blue - Manual Beater)
1972 VW Type 3 Squareback (Fargo - Terrible Rustbucket)

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Sveedy
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Post by Sveedy »

Well all I can say is that I toyed, briefly, with the idea of replacing the rod bearings on the project V70. I figured since I had the head and oil pan off why not ? But after assessing everything I decided against it. Laying on your back while trying to properly torque the rod caps, just didn't look like a good time. Plus you have to plastigauge the whole thing to get it right. And I have the car up on wheel cribs with a concrete slab and creeper.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.


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scot850
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Post by scot850 »

My ex-Volvo mechanic buddy tried replacing the rod bearings on his C30 project this way, and at least he has access to a hoist at work to do this. It did not go well. Shortly into the test run the knocking was back. This time he has a short block that is a known entity and he plans to fit that an a replacement low mileage head (broken cam belt when purchased).

Bit of a haul, but does Abscate still have a good known engine for sale?

Neil.
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Post by rrres »

I've changed the crank bearings on my 99 while the engine is in the car. I've also done it my Corolla. The caveat is that the engines on those weren't blown. I just replaced them since I happened to have the pistons out for a re-ring job. I don't know if it's possible with pistons in place (I had the pistons out). Had to support the engine on the passenger since the motor mount was removed. I turned the crank as needed to gain access to the bearings.
It's blowby

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Post by foggydogg »

Turning 7k while it's low tide in the pan usually equals scored rod journals. The spare engine laying idle in Long Island would be less labo(u)r intensive, and would get the poor car back on its hands and feet in a timely fashion; you would still have your lump to tinker with at your leisure, instead of having to turn it into a salvage yard for the core. Pulling the head and dropping the pan in the car will be tens of hours worth of effort, and then would just be at the inspection stage.
Was there Bourbon involved in this particular sporting event ?
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

It’s Lo(u)ng Island, and don’t call me Surly.
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tjmartin317
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Post by tjmartin317 »

Thank you all for the first hand accounts and horror stories. It’s settled: new engine time. I have travel plans to New Hampshire in the summer as is, a quick detour to Long Island is no biggie. And while yanking the thing out will still be laborious, it sounds like I’ve got help in many corners. I’ll certainly keep this site updated, when the time comes.

But first, I need to slap the cheapest brakes possible on my 67 mustang to move it out of my paved driveway and into a gravel parking spot, then push the Volvo down a hill to get it in the driveway… projects galore
2012 Acura TSX Wagon (Iris - Practical Daily)
2000 Volvo S70 (Blue - Manual Beater)
1972 VW Type 3 Squareback (Fargo - Terrible Rustbucket)

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