Hello all-
I've been doing a lot of reading here, very informative. But I haven't seen anything that address's my problem.
The car will not idle. It cranks and tries to start but just stalls out.
But when the accelerator is pressed it will run but it surges pretty bad. It takes a while to find the right spot where it will run ok. But the rev's have to be pretty high to get there.
I haven't done anything to it yet except make sure it's getting spark. I'm trying to see if I can borrow a fuel pressure gauge.
I went back to the mechanic I bought it from and told him what's going on. He said it's a vacuum leak. He didn't even hesitate and seemed pretty confident that's what it is. So I'm going to check that as soon as I can.
I really need to get it running. Anyone have an idea what the problem could be?
Thanks
Danny
1989 240Dl stalls at idle surges at high rev's
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
A vacuum leak is certainly a possibility. Check all the vacuum pipes for splits or deterioration and check that they are securely attached.
Also check all wires for chafing, stretching, cuts or pinching. Check all earth (ground) connections on the engine and all other electrical connections for tight fit and corrosion. Pay particular attention to the battery connections ensuring they are tight and clean, especially the earth connection where it is attached to the frame. There is also an earth strap from the engine/gearbox that must be tight and clean.
On your car you should have an on-board diagnostic unit in the engine compartment. Check for any fault codes that may have been set. To use the diagnostic unit see: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... c&start=12.
It applies to your car but some of the fault codes may be different as you don't have a turbo. Any different codes that come up post here for more help.
Bill.
A vacuum leak is certainly a possibility. Check all the vacuum pipes for splits or deterioration and check that they are securely attached.
Also check all wires for chafing, stretching, cuts or pinching. Check all earth (ground) connections on the engine and all other electrical connections for tight fit and corrosion. Pay particular attention to the battery connections ensuring they are tight and clean, especially the earth connection where it is attached to the frame. There is also an earth strap from the engine/gearbox that must be tight and clean.
On your car you should have an on-board diagnostic unit in the engine compartment. Check for any fault codes that may have been set. To use the diagnostic unit see: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... c&start=12.
It applies to your car but some of the fault codes may be different as you don't have a turbo. Any different codes that come up post here for more help.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Thanks for that link, I was wondering if I could get codes or not. I didn't do it right though, I didn't press the button. I was at my gf's house she doesn't have a computer.
Anyway I got it running. I disconnected the vacuum lines for the brake booster & all the ones on the throttle body. I cut about 1/2" of each one and reconnected them.
I also disconnected the MAF sensor for a test run. It smoothed out and ran at idle but still bucked a little.
I was going to test the air recirculating valve but couldn't get the electric connector off & I didn't want to break it.
So I'm thinking the vacuum lines were the culprit but messing with the electric connector & the MAF could have done something. I don't know, all I know is it's running & purring like a kitten.
Seriously, I was supprised how smooth it's running.
I really like this car....almost as much as I like my '84 Mercedes!
Thanks
Danny
Anyway I got it running. I disconnected the vacuum lines for the brake booster & all the ones on the throttle body. I cut about 1/2" of each one and reconnected them.
I also disconnected the MAF sensor for a test run. It smoothed out and ran at idle but still bucked a little.
I was going to test the air recirculating valve but couldn't get the electric connector off & I didn't want to break it.
So I'm thinking the vacuum lines were the culprit but messing with the electric connector & the MAF could have done something. I don't know, all I know is it's running & purring like a kitten.
Seriously, I was supprised how smooth it's running.
I really like this car....almost as much as I like my '84 Mercedes!
Thanks
Danny
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Thank you for the update. Good to know it is running like a Volvo should.
What is a Mercedes?
Bill.
What is a Mercedes?
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
-
wojeepster
- Posts: 259
- Joined: 15 November 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Hendersonville, NC
Check the accordian looking hose that runs from the air mass sensor to the throttle body, they sometimes rub against the fender and get a hole rubbed in them allowing unmetered/unfiltered air in. Take off hold up to light look for hole.
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