What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[vtl]

I don't think the end links will solve your problem, although they probably do need replacement, they are not involved or coincident with the wheels alignment. If things were fine before and now developed a speed wobble, particularly at highway speed I'd look for something that came loose since the alignment, I'm thinking strut to knuckle bolts or ball joint bolts themselves, or tie rod end nut. I'd do this post haste as safety may be a big concern. Please report back on what you've found.

bent tie rods prevented the shop from being able to align my v70, I changed the links and aligned it myself, no more scuffed tires after 1000 miles. But as you say it won't stop wobble.
Mine still vibrates right around 80 mph, I use the vibration as my speedometer,
I can't see the dash anyway, my eyesight washes out due to the sun.

Tie rods can certainly contribute to wobbling. As well as worn LCA front bushing.

[dikidera]

Today I have removed the three main linear solenoids from my old AW55. Upon removal of the transmission sump I saw that wherever there was something that was made from iron, had rusted from the water damage my transmission experienced almost 2 years ago.

Shaking the three main solenoids does not indicate movement of the piston inside, using a small precision screwdriver I could move the the piston by hand but there is significant resistance from the little spring. Nevertheless I plan to open them up and clean them as best I can.

[Blacklab467]

Transgo has a kit that contains very specific sized drill bits to clean up the bore in these solenoids. Apparently contaminents get imbedded in the brass bushings of the solenoids, holding the piston from moving. As I recall there are 2 different sizes for the three solenoids. It worked wonders for my transmission when I did it a few years ago, especially with the Park to Drive or Reverse engagement. Good luck.

[dikidera]

I will first have to cut them open, and then assess the damage/wear. I actually planned to clean these, hopefully the correct way so I do not damage them further. And then install them in my current transmission for even better shits and in the event shifts do not improve, I can always swap back the old ones.

Bonus points is I have a gasket for the sump, so I won't have to deal with RTV.

[BlackBart]

I come to confess and repent of my sins. The MVS faithful have preached well regarding OEM motor mounts, but I had strayed. Somehow tempted by the harlot Hamburg Technic I wallowed in the sin of crap knockoff front and rear mounts. Immediately I felt the weight of my mistake through the vibrations at idle after picking up from my Indy mechanic during water pump and timing belt service.

But alas in my regret and shame I spent the morning installing Hutchinson mounts in the garage in a woeful act of repentance. Smoothness at idle has returned and the hard rubber of H-T been replaced with the soft and vibration absorbing Hutchinson mounts. Learn from me those who question the words preached here. Go in peace my Volvo friends!

Oh, I remembered this post Mr Krons. I am about to go shopping for said front and rear mounts and my brain said, We were just talking about these somewhere...hmm.

Hutchinson at all FIVE mounts? Or just those round front and rear? I think I did the upper link at the crossbar, and the drag link underneath, since they're so easy.

I just watched this video on replacing all five mounts. Clear and simple...


Question - his is a diesel, and he talks about vacuum lines to the mounts...? Is that just a diesel thing? You need vacuum in your motor mounts?

[dikidera]

You know I also wanted Hutchinson, buuut they were not available in my country, at least all 5 of them. And the genuine ones are more expensive overall.

I think part of my bad shifting is caused by a bad engine mount, buut I cannot be certain which. I think maybe the torque mounts(both of them) need to be replaced, however the Hutchinson versions do not exist or rather are not available in Europe.

Often times when I accelerate or let go of the accelerator, the engine seems to rock back and forth. But at the same time, I am tired of these engine mounts failing after several thousand miles. I do not live to buy engine mounts every couple of months.

[BlackBart]

And I'm not sure DHL delivers out to the far galaxies....

[ZionXIX]

New good pump is installed. Duty cycle (FPMP) at idle dropped from 48-49% to 31-32%, this is good.

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I may be late to the game but what is that? Live OBDII data?

[dikidera]

A while back(a year ago to be specific) I did a modification to my ECU that turns out was incorrect. I had initially thought the map for my Denso ECU ETM throttle was supposed to be like this



Left was Accelerator, up was RPM. So an AccelxRPM map which contained throttle area air mass in grams per second. However the accelerator parameter was not a true linear representation of actual accelerator input. I could be pressing down only 35% but of this value, a special normalization signal was derived, and all of a sudden the map was being fed a much higher value like 60 or 65%, but that was not all...I had mixed up the axis of the map and so when I slightly exceeded 35% of actual pedal, the throttle would instantly open 99% and lug the engine.

Turns out the actual mapping or axis was simply this

and a slight increase in actual pedal travel of say from 35 to 40% caused it to instantly jump the cell to 120.06 grams per second, which in turn caused it to open the throttle to 99% lugging the engine usually in 4th and 5th gear. Since my S60 is an automatic, these incorrect throttle mappings made things worse as I had to lug the engine even more so that it would drop a gear.

[BlackBart]

Abscate Blue?

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