Help with timing belt (didnt mark before removing belt)

JOD78 · Post by **JOD78** » 06 May 2025, 11:54

Ok so I did a timing belt, water pump, and tensioner replacement without any issues, other than the fact that when I got it running again the tensioner was moving constantly at idle and the belt on the cam gear closes to firewall would not stay centered. It would walk to the right edge. So in hindsight I think I put the tensioner on wrong in that it wasn't at 11 o clock when I bolted it on. Ok so I remove it to reinstall it. Belt comes off. top gear move around a bit. Oops I didn't mark this before that belt came off and things got bumped a little. I know how set the timing with the marks and all but... I have no reference points currently. Am I ok to slip the belt back on, and rotate the crank to get it close to in time and then make adjustments?

Also - I just noticed with belt removed that cam gear/hub close to firewall sure has what seems to be a lot of play, but I don't know what's normal. I can move it in and out pretty easily maybe 1/8 to 1/4". Am I gonna have to replace this too? Thanks for any input.

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 06 May 2025, 12:08

I would remove all spark plugs to have a better feel in case pistons touch the valves. This way engine will move more freely and you will not have to fight compression and accidentally hit the valve. With no better option, I would install the belt as close to prior setting as possible and slowly turn it closer to marks. Hopefully you have camshaft locking tool to do this job correctly(they are decently cheap honestly). Looks like you are also describing VVT. 1/4 is crazy amount of play IMHO. Those are not cheap and usually around $300.

JOD78 · Post by **JOD78** » 06 May 2025, 12:31

Thanks. Yeah there's no oil leak from the cam seal, so maybe I leave it. Maybe its not 1/4", I don't. Ive come across a few videos where some in and out play seems somewhat normal. Unsure. Feel a bit dumb that I didn't mark things before slipping that belt back off. I mean the cam gears will move around a few teeth as is so maybe I just put it center and put the belt on and crank it to where the factory marks get close then adjust. I didn't use the rear cam locking tool just for the timing belt as I've never seen where that's necessary

Post by **jonesg** » 06 May 2025, 19:03

JOD78 wrote: ↑06 May 2025, 12:31 Thanks. Yeah there's no oil leak from the cam seal, so maybe I leave it. Maybe its not 1/4", I don't. Ive come across a few videos where some in and out play seems somewhat normal. Unsure. Feel a bit dumb that I didn't mark things before slipping that belt back off. I mean the cam gears will move around a few teeth as is so maybe I just put it center and put the belt on and crank it to where the factory marks get close then adjust. I didn't use the rear cam locking tool just for the timing belt as I've never seen where that's necessary

Lets try to clarify..
Disconnect the battery.
Remove plugs.
Install belt temporarily.
Put a big socket (32mm?) on the crank nut and turn the engine by hand only.
Find the crank timing mark and get the crank set up.
Check the cam marks.

If the belt is tracking something is wrong.
A loose cam sprocket can be the cause, more than 1/16 inch is worn out.
If you decide to change it then you need the cam locking tool.

JOD78 · Post by **JOD78** » 06 May 2025, 19:31

Really appreciate the replies. I’ve done a lot of work on the car successfully but I might’ve met my match lol. So I did throw the belt back on and cranked by hand. I met zero resistance so don’t think anything was damaged (is that even possible by hand cranking?) but it’s out of timing. Engine was never started out of timing though. Anyways. After looking at the vvt hub repair I might be thinking about hauling this to someone superior to me

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 06 May 2025, 20:23

Vvt hub repair is not economical IMHO unless you are able to have access to sophisticated machinery and you are doing it yourself. . With current labor prices $300 for part that will easily last you 100k is not a crazy investment in my opinion(don't get me wrong it is a lot of money, but average new car price is 52k nowadays or so, so compare it is to a new car payment and it will look way more appealing). If you don't need this car on a road asap, I would recommend to replace cam, crank, oil pump seals and vvt hub. This way you will avoid wasting time/money in case one of those aged units will develop leak and your new timing belt will be covered in oil(not a big expense for a belt itself, but time and frustration!!!). Install it correctly with cam locking tool(sometime those are available for rent from Advance or Auto zone , etc)as per video and sleep good that you did it correctly and you will not have codes for improper timing etc.