For some reason the transmission was not shifting well from a locked TC. It seems that when the TC is locked and a shift is upcoming, the transmission must gradually lower the SLU pressure to make a seamless shift into a new gear + unlocked TC. But somehow, for some reason(likely in the VB) the TC was not unlocking with the preprogrammed prerssures, causing an awkward shift, not bad, just awkward..
With that in mind I found and gradually reduced the SLU pressure maps associated with this shift mode and tuned + flashed until I got a better shift.
What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?
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scot850
- Posts: 14875
- Joined: 5 April 2010
- Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
- Has thanked: 1839 times
- Been thanked: 1709 times
Finally built up enthusiasm to do the long needed 06 XC70 major service. All fluids (except trans and Haldex as these were done withing the last 2 years 12kkm) need swapping, along with the spark plugs, check the condition of the coils, give the brakes a clean and lube as needed and swap onto the summer tires. Almost forgot, also need to swap the thermostat while doing the coolant flush, the cam and serp belts.
Decided rather than do this all in one go, to tackle it in stages. AS my mechanic buddy decided to be inconvenient and go and get married today, I decided to tackle the brakes first as they would be accessible while swapping the tires over to the summers.
Car on hoist and all wheels off. Wire brushed the caliper bleed screws and soaked in PB Blaster. As the bleed screws look prehistoric, I stripped the calipers and cleaned the pads, cleaned and lubed the pad/bracket contact points, as well as the slider pins and reassembled.
Next plan was to do the brake flush but this is on hold as both rear caliper bleed screws are seized in. Also there was a threat of a thunderstorm and it often brings hail so I had the get the car back on the ground and moveable to get the last car in the garage.
So brake flush will have to wait until I can get a set of new bleed screws, and possibly a set of rebuilt rear calipers.
Next on the plan is spark plugs, do a drain and fill on the steering fluid and order the brake parts.
I need to order fluids for the angle gear and rear diff as well.
Last will be the coolant flush, thermostat, timing belt/tensioner/idler and serp belts. Those will be done once my buddy is available for training for me!
Yesterday summed up an epic fail on the C30 T5. Car runs and after a 10 minute run, no codes. But when backing into the garage the car started to falter and the idle dropped below 800 rpm and went lumpy. Again no codes.
Switched off and left the car to sulk and went for a beer!
Neil.
Decided rather than do this all in one go, to tackle it in stages. AS my mechanic buddy decided to be inconvenient and go and get married today, I decided to tackle the brakes first as they would be accessible while swapping the tires over to the summers.
Car on hoist and all wheels off. Wire brushed the caliper bleed screws and soaked in PB Blaster. As the bleed screws look prehistoric, I stripped the calipers and cleaned the pads, cleaned and lubed the pad/bracket contact points, as well as the slider pins and reassembled.
Next plan was to do the brake flush but this is on hold as both rear caliper bleed screws are seized in. Also there was a threat of a thunderstorm and it often brings hail so I had the get the car back on the ground and moveable to get the last car in the garage.
So brake flush will have to wait until I can get a set of new bleed screws, and possibly a set of rebuilt rear calipers.
Next on the plan is spark plugs, do a drain and fill on the steering fluid and order the brake parts.
I need to order fluids for the angle gear and rear diff as well.
Last will be the coolant flush, thermostat, timing belt/tensioner/idler and serp belts. Those will be done once my buddy is available for training for me!
Yesterday summed up an epic fail on the C30 T5. Car runs and after a 10 minute run, no codes. But when backing into the garage the car started to falter and the idle dropped below 800 rpm and went lumpy. Again no codes.
Switched off and left the car to sulk and went for a beer!
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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yanga001
- Posts: 787
- Joined: 24 March 2019
- Year and Model: 98/99/00 v/s70’s
- Location: Ontario
- Has thanked: 59 times
- Been thanked: 110 times
For the c30 could it be an intake vacuum leak/torn connection between the maf to the throttle. My na s70 did this when the tube broke down. Ran great cold and sputtered/faltered when hot.
1998 S70 N/A Auto (Parts car)(planned to be harvested)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar
)
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)
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scot850
- Posts: 14875
- Joined: 5 April 2010
- Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
- Has thanked: 1839 times
- Been thanked: 1709 times
Thanks for the input! More help than on the P1 forum.
I think there may be an intake leak. Running out of other options other than possibly a corrupted ECM/ECU. The issue is compounded by others having been in there before and not capable of putting stuff back where it belongs, or breaking stuff and not fixing it.
Latest issue is I removed the MAF to see if it was dirty as one of the mechanics thought it may be the issue, but it went no further. As I have a spare Bosch MAF (used), I decided to remove the one in the car and clean it if it was bad. While in there I would be checking at least 2 connections on the intake pipes from the MAF to the back of the engine. One was not particularly tight but not enough to be too concerned over. The MAF was quite clean, but what a pain it it to remove. During this process I discovered the vacuum pipe from the end of the intake plenum was loose as it is missing the retaining clip/seal. Problem I have is so far I can't find the part or number. It is not shown as part of the plenum on pictures, not part of the vacuum lines for the brakes. I have asked my contact at the local dealer to see if he can identify it.
In the meantime I fill make a better bodge than someone has done and actually seal it until I can find a part. I decided to swap in the MAF I have and it was only slightly better, so I think for now the MAF is not the issue, but air leaking may be.
I'll update when I get a solution and if it makes any improvement on the rough idle.
Neil.
I think there may be an intake leak. Running out of other options other than possibly a corrupted ECM/ECU. The issue is compounded by others having been in there before and not capable of putting stuff back where it belongs, or breaking stuff and not fixing it.
Latest issue is I removed the MAF to see if it was dirty as one of the mechanics thought it may be the issue, but it went no further. As I have a spare Bosch MAF (used), I decided to remove the one in the car and clean it if it was bad. While in there I would be checking at least 2 connections on the intake pipes from the MAF to the back of the engine. One was not particularly tight but not enough to be too concerned over. The MAF was quite clean, but what a pain it it to remove. During this process I discovered the vacuum pipe from the end of the intake plenum was loose as it is missing the retaining clip/seal. Problem I have is so far I can't find the part or number. It is not shown as part of the plenum on pictures, not part of the vacuum lines for the brakes. I have asked my contact at the local dealer to see if he can identify it.
In the meantime I fill make a better bodge than someone has done and actually seal it until I can find a part. I decided to swap in the MAF I have and it was only slightly better, so I think for now the MAF is not the issue, but air leaking may be.
I'll update when I get a solution and if it makes any improvement on the rough idle.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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dikidera
- Posts: 1304
- Joined: 15 August 2022
- Year and Model: S60 2005
- Location: Galaxy far far away
- Has thanked: 67 times
- Been thanked: 175 times
Ever since installing a new transmissions, my PNP switch has been acting weird. It's not the switch itself, it's the electrical system. Antifreeze had gotten inside the pnp switch and connector. I replaced the pnp switch, but the plug itself showed signs of corrosion. Contact cleaner did what it could, buut I am also suspecting damage to the signal ground, the old transmission had gotten tangled in some cables and pulled on them quite a lot, buut I thought they were fine.
It could also be the CEM's control signal(power)
It could also be the CEM's control signal(power)
- darylrobert
- Posts: 423
- Joined: 13 July 2010
- Year and Model: V70 240 740t xc70
- Location: Australia
- Has thanked: 6 times
- Been thanked: 42 times
- Krons
- Posts: 1072
- Joined: 9 January 2022
- Year and Model: 08S60 05XC90 02S60
- Location: Des Moines, IA
- Has thanked: 193 times
- Been thanked: 202 times
Oil change on the 05 XC90 yesterday. Could’ve run it longer but with college kids you do it when it is here.
Did a second round of AT-205 in the 10w30 HiMi synthetic, engine oil leak went from a half dollar (US lol) size leak when parked to a single drop. At 209k miles it’ll do, at the point on this one where I’m only fixing what breaks or is cheap.
I did splurge for some used headlights on eBay, ones on it are really fogged on the inside so really let the looks down and need replacing.
Did a second round of AT-205 in the 10w30 HiMi synthetic, engine oil leak went from a half dollar (US lol) size leak when parked to a single drop. At 209k miles it’ll do, at the point on this one where I’m only fixing what breaks or is cheap.
I did splurge for some used headlights on eBay, ones on it are really fogged on the inside so really let the looks down and need replacing.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
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yanga001
- Posts: 787
- Joined: 24 March 2019
- Year and Model: 98/99/00 v/s70’s
- Location: Ontario
- Has thanked: 59 times
- Been thanked: 110 times
Did an oil change on the s60 prior to selling it. Indy looked the car over and said it just needs the rear brakes and a front drivers tie rod for a safety. Already have the rear rotors so i just need the brake pads and i can get it done when time permits. Oil looked great and no sludge deposits were seen.
1998 S70 N/A Auto (Parts car)(planned to be harvested)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar
)
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)
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dikidera
- Posts: 1304
- Joined: 15 August 2022
- Year and Model: S60 2005
- Location: Galaxy far far away
- Has thanked: 67 times
- Been thanked: 175 times
What used transmission(200, 250k ++ miles)'s oil looks like even after around 8-10 quarts of new oil mixed-in. This means it takes a significant amount of new oil, in the neighborhood of 25-40l(almost similar to quarts) to get it bright and shiny, which is the experience I got from my old transmission.


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Georgeandkira
- Posts: 882
- Joined: 7 April 2009
- Year and Model: '07 V70 + '15 XC70
- Location: Hudson & Champlain Valleys, USA
- Has thanked: 64 times
- Been thanked: 69 times
R&Red my 2007 V70's gear selector lever -part number deliberately withheld as there are many and a full VIN lookup is required.
The part was $137.
SYMPTOM:
The gear selector would fail to "unlock", leaving the vehicle stuck in P.
Jiggling it would free it.
I used rubber bands to secure the trigger in the "pressed configuration".
CAUSE:
The pivoting release trigger on the original broke @~150k.
BRIEF TASK DESCRIPTION:
Moving the lever into a central location helps. If the lever is stuck in P, removal is more difficult as the dashboard would be in the way.
Pry the boot retention ring away from the knob.
Lift the trim plate up from the console. Disconnecting the light's wiring isn't necessary.
Pull straight up forcefully.
Insert the replacement and whack it down forcefully.
MOST DIFFICULT PART:>>>>Orient the boot retention ring correctly. Mine had a notch in the forward location. Work the ring ALL THE WAY UP the top of the boot. Force at the 3 and 9 o'clock position clicks in in place.
Reseat the trim plate
The part was $137.
SYMPTOM:
The gear selector would fail to "unlock", leaving the vehicle stuck in P.
Jiggling it would free it.
I used rubber bands to secure the trigger in the "pressed configuration".
CAUSE:
The pivoting release trigger on the original broke @~150k.
BRIEF TASK DESCRIPTION:
Moving the lever into a central location helps. If the lever is stuck in P, removal is more difficult as the dashboard would be in the way.
Pry the boot retention ring away from the knob.
Lift the trim plate up from the console. Disconnecting the light's wiring isn't necessary.
Pull straight up forcefully.
Insert the replacement and whack it down forcefully.
MOST DIFFICULT PART:>>>>Orient the boot retention ring correctly. Mine had a notch in the forward location. Work the ring ALL THE WAY UP the top of the boot. Force at the 3 and 9 o'clock position clicks in in place.
Reseat the trim plate
Last edited by Georgeandkira on 16 Jun 2025, 06:51, edited 1 time in total.
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