Hey everyone,
I’ve recently pulled the dash on my 1998 S70 to replace some cracked trim around the instrument cluster left by the previous owner. While it’s out, I’m planning to repair a crack in the dash itself and reinforce a few broken mounting tabs using JB-Weld and a plastic-welder gun. Since I probably won’t have another chance to access everything behind there for a while, I want to make the most of this teardown.
Has anyone taken advantage of this moment to pull or service the heater core or evaporator? I’m curious whether it’s worth draining the system now and installing a fresh cabin air filter or tackling any HVAC seals before things freeze up next winter. On that note, are the blend-door actuators and vacuum lines easy to inspect or lubricate while the dash is down? I’d rather fix any sticking doors or leaks now than chase weird temperature swings later.
I’ve also heard of folks dropping in sound-deadening mats behind the dash—does that really quiet the road noise, or is it more trouble than it’s worth? And while we’re at it, any advice on checking wiring harness connectors for corrosion or upgrading dash-mounted speaker leads without frying the OEM loom?
For context, my car is in North Carolina, has about 200,000 miles on it, and I’ve got a heat gun, dash trim tools, and my plastic-weld kit at the ready. I’d love to hear about any “don’t-miss” tasks, clever hacks, or must-have OEM part numbers you’ve discovered during your own dash-out adventures.
Thanks in advance for your insights!
98 S70 – Dash Out: What Else to Tackle?
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aeg
- Posts: 53
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Cabin air filter is under the hood near the windshield wiper. Heater core is serviced through the kick panel, no dash removal necessary. Now would be a good time to replace any burnt out bulbs on the instrument cluster, including the clock backlight bulbs. Would also be a good time to install a trip computer if you have the inclination and can get the parts. Not sure how the A/C evaporator is accessed - if you can get at it, a pre-emptive replacement might be a good idea!
- abscate
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The AC evaporator is in the HVAC core unit that requires dash removal. Its a $100 part with 10 hours of labor to replace, mostly due to dash replacement. That and strengthening blend door plastic would be on my list
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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afranke
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 14 February 2014
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5M
- Location: Raleigh, NC
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I'll probably go ahead and add that to my list then. Any tips or tutorials on the blend door plastic? I'm replacing all the crumbling foam seals around the air vents as well as cleaning up some work from the previous owner that I'm less than happy with (which is actually why the dash came out to start with).
Any mounts to reinforce to get ahead of squeaks/rattles? Anything to test to make sure it's working right while I have access?
Also, got a link to the AC evap you're talking about for $100? The only one apparently in stock at FCP is OEM for $468: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -9171781oe
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scot850
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I wrote up how I did my dash repairs. I can't find it on a thread for some reason. Hopefully you access this pdf version I wrote and it may give you some inspiration:
There was also someone with a thread recently on selling repair mounts they were 3D printing. Can't testify to the quality or effectiveness of the product. All I can tell you is having done several of these dashboards this process works and the dash is way stronger than original.
Only complaint I had was from a mechanic friend after fixing his 850 AWD dash was that he could now hear all the other issues with is car!
As to the pricing of the evaporator, I can't answer that. All I can warn you about doing the job is make sure the quality is decent as it is critical that the connections at the firewall in the engine bay line up well with the pipe ends or it can be a bear. I spent 5 hours on trying to get the snap rings to connect before walking away. Came back had another look and realized the cones on the ends of the evaporator were too large that the snap rings could not fit over them. Filed then down slightly and then they snapped together no problem.
I also suggest spraying the coils springs that hold the evaporator to the pipework in the engine with PB Blaster or like in advance of doing this job as they can get rusted and you will have a devil of a time separating the 2 parts.
You have to remove the dash to access the core section that holds all the heating system casing that the evaporator is mounted in. I stripped the whole thing down and treated all the flap rubber seals with rubber conditioner and cleaned all the grime out especially where they contact the surfaces as they can go squishy with age which makes then sticky.
The work to strip the dash out is not terrible just laborious. Just be happy you are doing a S70 and not a 850, they are a pain. I think the 98 may still have the metal knee bolsters under the dash. They have 2 mounting nuts on the outer side and only one and a ratcheting lock on the inner side.
Good Luck!
Neil.
There was also someone with a thread recently on selling repair mounts they were 3D printing. Can't testify to the quality or effectiveness of the product. All I can tell you is having done several of these dashboards this process works and the dash is way stronger than original.
Only complaint I had was from a mechanic friend after fixing his 850 AWD dash was that he could now hear all the other issues with is car!
As to the pricing of the evaporator, I can't answer that. All I can warn you about doing the job is make sure the quality is decent as it is critical that the connections at the firewall in the engine bay line up well with the pipe ends or it can be a bear. I spent 5 hours on trying to get the snap rings to connect before walking away. Came back had another look and realized the cones on the ends of the evaporator were too large that the snap rings could not fit over them. Filed then down slightly and then they snapped together no problem.
I also suggest spraying the coils springs that hold the evaporator to the pipework in the engine with PB Blaster or like in advance of doing this job as they can get rusted and you will have a devil of a time separating the 2 parts.
You have to remove the dash to access the core section that holds all the heating system casing that the evaporator is mounted in. I stripped the whole thing down and treated all the flap rubber seals with rubber conditioner and cleaned all the grime out especially where they contact the surfaces as they can go squishy with age which makes then sticky.
The work to strip the dash out is not terrible just laborious. Just be happy you are doing a S70 and not a 850, they are a pain. I think the 98 may still have the metal knee bolsters under the dash. They have 2 mounting nuts on the outer side and only one and a ratcheting lock on the inner side.
Good Luck!
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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- Has thanked: 1498 times
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afranke wrote: ↑25 Jun 2025, 21:55I'll probably go ahead and add that to my list then. Any tips or tutorials on the blend door plastic? I'm replacing all the crumbling foam seals around the air vents as well as cleaning up some work from the previous owner that I'm less than happy with (which is actually why the dash came out to start with).
Any mounts to reinforce to get ahead of squeaks/rattles? Anything to test to make sure it's working right while I have access?
Also, got a link to the AC evap you're talking about for $100? The only one apparently in stock at FCP is OEM for $468: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -9171781oe
OOof - Rock Auto has them over here in Munich.,,, 57 EURO
Give FCP a ping and ask them for update on backorder
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- foggydogg
- Posts: 2948
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Robert has some thoughts...
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
97 855 T5, 855 R projects
98 V70R x2, Silver Junkyard rescue, Coral Red
98 V70GLT x2, parts cars
00 V70xc x2, both now dead
62 122s, gone to live in Richmond
56 445 Duett basket project
1950 Studebaker 2R10 flatbed, T9 crashbox
94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
97 855 T5, 855 R projects
98 V70R x2, Silver Junkyard rescue, Coral Red
98 V70GLT x2, parts cars
00 V70xc x2, both now dead
62 122s, gone to live in Richmond
56 445 Duett basket project
1950 Studebaker 2R10 flatbed, T9 crashbox
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