Chaosrob 1999 v70R 601 save, Going to need a lot of parts, lot of help and do a lot of reading.. Topic is solved

chaosrob · Post by **chaosrob** » 22 Jul 2025, 09:39

Hi all, just pulled a non running, rough 99 v70R auto out of a field in Missouri where it has been sitting since 2012. The car is 99% rust free but a non runner and is going to need a lot of work and parts to get it where it needs to be. I know I should run but I like a challenge. I will share along the way.

FP is dead do I get to tackle that first, I ordered the High Flow one from Vatt tuning, I have also preemptively ordered the timing belt kit with water pump, Pcv kit, new coolant hoses, spark plugs and assorted other parts from FCP. Passenger front window was smashed out so I replaced it.

Plan is to replace enough to get it to fire and see if it will run. If I get it to run next will be a full detail and buff to see exactly what state the body is in. If there is enough paint to save then I will only have that addressed, if it is too much it will get a full respray and color change later. Before that happens I am sure I will be replacing the vast majority of original parts on the suspension, etc.

I have never owned a Volvo before but always loved the boxy wagons, this will be a complete first for me. Wish me luck and any feedback, tips, tricks and knowledge you would like to share would be appreciated.

454cid · Post by **454cid** » 22 Jul 2025, 10:42

Sounds like a nice project. The no rust part, is the best.

You could do a compression test, to give a better idea of engine condition before throwing parts at it.

chaosrob · Post by **chaosrob** » 22 Jul 2025, 13:52

Thanks. Already done and they are strong and consistent. The car has 103k miles on it

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 22 Jul 2025, 14:30

Look with boroscope inside the cylinders. If too much rust...hopefully no, so after investigation put 20cc of fresh oil into each cylinder. Replace oil now. Count on all rubber parts(cam shaft, crank shaft being dry and leaking at this time. Hope you have enough money and patience to play with it. Prepare for marathon and good luck.

chaosrob · Post by **chaosrob** » 22 Jul 2025, 15:48

I looked in the cylinders prior to turning it over and put some Kroil on top of the pistons and let it set overnight. I drained and put fresh oil into it but did not change the filter. Waiting to see if it fires with the pump before proceeding with all the ancillaries

Vova585 wrote: ↑22 Jul 2025, 14:30 Look with boroscope inside the cylinders. If too much rust...hopefully no, so after investigation put 20cc of fresh oil into each cylinder. Replace oil now. Count on all rubber parts(cam shaft, crank shaft being dry and leaking at this time. Hope you have enough money and patience to play with it. Prepare for marathon and good luck.

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 22 Jul 2025, 19:52

While you are doing the pump, probably would be best to replace 0-ring for the pump assembly cap and evacuate all the old gas. I am not sure about MY99 but my 98v70Xc needed to have a cut in the sheet metal below rear seats to replace fuel pump without dropping the tank.
Look at our pinned topics at the main page. Some nice member put detailed instructions about this procedure(hope your car has dedicated access point for fuel pump removal). Replace fuel filter at the same time as well and evacuate all old gas. Please make a video of you starting the car. I have beer and popcorn and I am a sucker for such dramatic "car porn"(my wife's words)

Post by **abscate** » 23 Jul 2025, 03:58

The 98-00 V70 R wil require either partial axle drop or partial suspension drop to access the fuel pump. Alternately, you cut the hole in the floor pan. I think the suspension drop us the way to go.
‘That requires removing drive shaft, viscous coupler to make room for the fuel tank to come down. You need it pretty empty to avoid an Exxon Valdez incident

chaosrob · Post by **chaosrob** » 23 Jul 2025, 05:24

Thank you, I believe that is sage advice. I need to do a really good walk around video and pictures detailing its condition before I start anymore work on it, it's solid but sad if that makes sense. I definitely will do a video of the first start attempt, something I didn't consider, ty

Vova585 wrote: ↑22 Jul 2025, 19:52 While you are doing the pump, probably would be best to replace 0-ring for the pump assembly cap and evacuate all the old gas. I am not sure about MY99 but my 98v70Xc needed to have a cut in the sheet metal below rear seats to replace fuel pump without dropping the tank.
Look at our pinned topics at the main page. Some nice member put detailed instructions about this procedure(hope your car has dedicated access point for fuel pump removal). Replace fuel filter at the same time as well and evacuate all old gas. Please make a video of you starting the car. I have beer and popcorn and I am a sucker for such dramatic "car porn"(my wife's words)

chaosrob · Post by **chaosrob** » 23 Jul 2025, 05:25

Yup, a lot of work for sure. Half the stiff should be replaced anyway. Best to just go back factory shock configuration or aftermarket?

abscate wrote: ↑23 Jul 2025, 03:58 The 98-00 V70 R wil require either partial axle drop or partial suspension drop to access the fuel pump. Alternately, you cut the hole in the floor pan. I think the suspension drop is the way to go.
‘That requires removing drive shaft, viscous coupler to make room for the fuel tank to come down. You need it pretty empty to avoid an Exxon Valdez incident

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 23 Jul 2025, 07:36

It is 26y.o "vintage". I would hope that some of our v70R owner members will share their expertise on what parts are good and what are not. Somehow I am questioning how much oem parts would be available at this point given age of the car. Fcp euro is a great resource with lifetime warranty. IpD usa is good, but i am not happy with their pcv system rubber material so would advice to avoid that. Absolutely try not to buy anything URO brand if possible to find alternative.