04 S60 steering column u joint repair/lubrication/how too?

[gchalifoux]

Hi every,

So I "refuse" to bring my dad's car to a shop for this repair.

What I would like to do is test/lube anything I can to see if this unbinds/frees up the "stiff steering"....working my way down from the inside of the car down to the rack. I'm hoping not to have to mess with the rack in hopes that it is "solid". My "hopes" are that I might be able to locate, clean and lubricate points of movement along the steering column that jusssssssssst might free this thing up?? So if someone, multiple people who have had this experience could chime in I would greatly appreciate it. Is there some sort of bearing/covered by a boot inside the car at the very base of the column where it attached/goes through the fire wall? Then under the hood?? upper and lower ujoints? clean? lube? grease? JJJJuuuuuussssttt on the outside chance this will work??

Last would be to replace either 1 or both of the ujoints....my brother-in-law said he replaced one of them years ago....trying to figure out which one was replaced. He seems to think it might have been the lower joint....So.....need your experience and input on this....would really appreciate it!!

thank you one and all!!!!!!!
Gary

[JDS60R]

A little silicone grease ( not spray) in the seal between the shaft and the rubber seal to the body. Other that - replace parts as needed. U joints are not serviceable ( remove and replace only) .

[gchalifoux]

A little silicone grease ( not spray) in the seal between the shaft and the rubber seal to the body. Other that - replace parts as needed. U joints are not serviceable ( remove and replace only) .

would that locate in this pic #14, I seem to have read this on another post where here....

[oragex]

The #14 is inside the car, under the pedals. It also has a small bearing at the top which can rust. Remove the bolt #12 from under the dash, then remove the large clip (not illustrated) that keeps #14 in place, remove #14 and retrieve the small bearing. Then you have access to the lower u-joint from inside the car. One part of the u-joint being disconnected, you can inspect it for free movement. If it doesn't move easy, use liberally some engine oil or silicone grease (don't go with wd40 as some anti-seize spray will freeze in winter). Play with the joint on all axes until you see rust coming off and gets easy to rotate. Removing the joint from there is usually a very hard job because it gets stuck on the steering rack.

[JDS60R]

Silicone grease between 13 and 14.

If you want to remove 13 (for replacement - no need to remove anything for greasing- just push 14 down and grease) then remove 15 and use small pry bar to lift 13 up and off. Then remove 11 and 12 to get 13 off the car.

Its best to have 2 people first. ! to turn the steering wheel while the other looks at the joints. See which one has play and replace as needed. I have done many of the 13's but very few of #9's. Many people confuse the play or damage/wear to the steering rack with a bad 13. You will wnat to see the play first hand before paying for replacement parts.

[JohnLiu]

Hope someone can help me:

In the final process of taking the steering rack out, I removed the bolt 15.
13 has slipped up to a point where there might only be a few mm left.
13 is stuck right there refusing to move up further.

I tried pry bars of varying sizes.
I tried to use hammer and big screw driver.

It's in a tight space where I can't muscle it.

I also removed 11/12 and disengaged 9 from 7 and 14 hoping it all comes out with the rack.
But, it does not have room to do so.

I can see it from the engine bay. But, hard to reach down.

There has to be a trick I don't know since not many people complaining about this issue.

I have been at it for almost a week.

Please help.

Thank you.

[DavidE7]

I have removed the #13 steering shaft by hitting it from under the car with a long shaft pressing on the bottom of the flange with bolt #15 completely removed. After enough pounding the shaft just pops off. Always use plenty of anti-seize on the replacement parts because of the dissimilar materials between the steel shaft and bolt and aluminum steering shaft.

[br0dy519]

Cant you remove the rack with the lower shaft connected? My 2 cents ( 0.8 cent american ) from across the river …

[Vova585]

Agree with honorable members above about #14 and #13 being a common issue. Only thing, if after cleaning and lubrication your results would not be 100% and you will decide to buy new parts...please buy brand new oem and not ProPartsSweden. My #13 developed "tight, click" spot after 4k miles..so angry at myself for thinking that if it was made in Sweden it should be oem quality..(maybe it is the same part just in a different box, but 4k miles...never again ProPartsSweden for me...)

[JohnLiu]

I have removed the #13 steering shaft by hitting it from under the car with a long shaft pressing on the bottom of the flange with bolt #15 completely removed. After enough pounding the shaft just pops off. Always use plenty of anti-seize on the replacement parts because of the dissimilar materials between the steel shaft and bolt and aluminum steering shaft.

Thank you for the tip.

I wish there was a tool like the one for the O2 sensors. The opening of my O2 sensor tool is too small in this case.

I also took inspiration from the ball joint removing tools by using a fork and a whole bunch of open wrenches at the bottom. But, the wrenches kept falling out.

I also tried to hit it from the bottom with long screw drivers, pry bars. But they kept bouncing out.

I kept thinking that it shouldn't be this hard since the pinion has dropped after bolt #15 was removed. There should be only a few mm left stuck in there.

I'm now an export on lowering the sub frames, supporting the engine, removing the wheels since I have attempted half a dozen times on this as recently as this morning. It is still stuck over there.