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V70-XC new solenoids new issue

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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uax968
Posts: 2
Joined: 18 August 2025
Year and Model: XC70 & S60 2005
Location: UK

V70-XC new solenoids new issue

Post by uax968 »

Hello all,

I've got a 2005 V70-XC D5 which has about 190k miles on the clock. Had it for a year and it had transmission issues, particularly when hot. Primarily this was VERY harsh jerk into drive including from a standstill, say at the lights. It also manifested as harsh down shifts too. I recently replaced the solenoids with new ones and re did the adaption process. The first issue is despite over 2 hours of trying, i was struggling to get and yellow warning lights for anything other than the 2-3 shift and the N-D shift. The N-D was just as bad to start with but very quickly I felt the learning process work and its super smooth now. Everything seems to be good except I now have the jerk going from N-R D-R.... anything to R. I couldn't get it to adapt for what ever reason.

I'm not clear if this is an issue with the adaptions process, or a physical one due to the updated solenoids but it feels like the transmission is overall better, but I now have a different issue I didn't have before. I'm not expecting miracles on such an old box and I'm thinking I'll probably do another flush and try to do the adaptions again but if anyone has any ideas I'd be keen to hear. I've had a look on the forums and haven't found anything quite like this yet. I did ask ChatGPT in a moment of desperation and without me telling it the specifics of my vehicle it said there are some qwerks with the adaption process on 2004-2005 models where you need to do the garage shifts first or you get no yellow warning light indicating a successful learn of a shift. No idea if this is legit or a hallucination but I guess it might be worth a try?!

dikidera
Posts: 1304
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Year and Model: S60 2005
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Post by dikidera »

I would try and make sure that your engine mounts are good. While it could be the transmission, worn out engine mounts(upper torque mount and lower torque rod) can contribute this issue. And always replace in pairs.

uax968
Posts: 2
Joined: 18 August 2025
Year and Model: XC70 & S60 2005
Location: UK

Post by uax968 »

I was thinking this very thing, but the shift into drive is now fine, which makes me think something is up. If I don't keep the brake depressed it kinda jolts into reverse quite harshly. I'm aware that this could wreck new engine mounts so I thought I'd try to get this sorted first. I can confirm the upper and lower mounts are knackered though.

scot850  
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Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
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Post by scot850 »

As we don't get the D5 engines over here, finding parts listings are more difficult for the D5 engine, and in particular the engine mounts.

If your upper and lower torque mounts are shot, more than likely if your engine has a similar mount under the crank pulley on the RHS, it has also failed. When that fails along with the other 2 torque mounts, you will get clunks and rough shifts, as the engine cannot only rock forward and backwards, it also twists. The twisting if not rectified will also take out your radiator.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

pobracara
Posts: 3
Joined: 6 August 2024
Year and Model: 2003 V70 T5
Location: Spain

Post by pobracara »

New solenoids like Rostra need sometimes physical adjustement turning the screw in the solenoid out to decrease pressure.


dikidera
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Post by dikidera »

It's not easy to do the adjustment, it is quite cumbersome in fact. Drop the subframe or jack up the engine very far up, remove transmission oil pan, in order to do one turn and be able to test if it's worse or better. Then you have to do it all over again. Yes drilling can help as shown in some guides, but it is also easy to muck it up or lead to leaks.

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