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finding where my P/S fluid is leaking.

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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jonesg
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finding where my P/S fluid is leaking.

Post by jonesg »

04 V70, steering fluid has been leaking a couple of years and I just kept topping it up.
I bought a high pressure line last year, went out to the garage to take a look at how involved this is going to be, before I racked the car I peeked under the hood, my concern has always been what if I replace the line but its not the source of the fluid loss, rack ends are dry.
Found the leak immediately.


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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

That's a nasty, nasty ob changing the HP line on these cars.....I've done one on an XC90 and a XC70. I'd consider taking it to a hydraulic repair shop and look at your options for changing that crimp connection in-situ, particularly since the rest of the line is in good shape and not leaking.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

From my reading and watching videos I think the mistake made is not commiting to remove everything from the start, then having to drop subframe halfway through the job etc.
So I ordered a cross support bar to allow the engine to hang whilst the subframe is lowered.
I'm watching a video now, he says to allow 3 hours, hahaha, I bought enough food to keep me alive for 2 weeks.

dikidera
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Post by dikidera »

Trust me this repair is easier than changing the input shaft seal on these. Cause then you have to align the steering rack to be centred, which is difficult if its the rack with the 2.75 turns end to end and not say a 3 for easier calculation.

vtl
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Post by vtl »

Blacklab467 wrote: 20 Sep 2025, 12:21 That's a nasty, nasty ob changing the HP line on these cars.....I've done one on an XC90 and a XC70. I'd consider taking it to a hydraulic repair shop and look at your options for changing that crimp connection in-situ, particularly since the rest of the line is in good shape and not leaking.
jonesg has a lift, he'll spend more time procrastinating than dropping the subframe :)

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