"Door Closed" switch 1999 (late year) S70
"Door Closed" switch 1999 (late year) S70
Driver's side. The car appears to think the driver's door is always open. I did a search and it sounds like the switch is integral with the latch... true? If so, do I have to pull the door panel to get at the thing?
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VCA
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Yes, it's part of the door lock module. Yours has failed (and not uncommonly so--I did 3 in the last 5 months on my '99 S70) and needs to be replaced. The driver's door is a little harder than the others, I can send you a PDF with instructions if you PM me with your email address. If you have access to AllData, the instructions are in there and they are accurate.MJJ wrote:Driver's side. The car appears to think the driver's door is always open. I did a search and it sounds like the switch is integral with the latch... true? If so, do I have to pull the door panel to get at the thing?
2008 S80 T6 AWD
1999 S70 GLT
Responsible for the care of a '92 960 and an '07 S60R
1999 S70 GLT
Responsible for the care of a '92 960 and an '07 S60R
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MadeInJapan
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Guess I'm going to have to stop using MIJ as a short hand for my name. 
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
Okay, just finished this up today. A couple of comments:
1. I believe the problem was not with the switch, but was due to wear in the part that presses on the switch. It looked like the part was no longer pushing hard enough on the switch to activate it. If I had not already ordered a new assembly and had it in hand I would have been willing to put a dab of something in there to take up the gap (JB Weld, epoxy, etc...) and I bet that would have worked for another few years.
2. A thousand thanks to VCA for the Alldata PDF's. Without them, the job would have been a mess. I would have dismantled much more of the door than was necessary. However, the PDF's could have been better edited and detailed. The one step that is ultra-tricky is replacing the door handle, specifically lining up the lock rod with the slot on the new assembly. It's not like disassembly, where you rotate away the latch assembly to disengage it from the handle. I'll try to fill in the gap here (insert these steps after the PDF instructions that tell you to put the latch assembly into position and install ONE torx screw LOOSELY to hold it in place).
This all relates to the driver's door btw.
a. Have a flashlight and a slim standard screwdriver handy.
b. Here's the problem: the path of least resistance when replacing the door handle will result in the lock rod MISSING its slot in the latch assembly. It will want to lodge itself too far to the rear of the door. Everything will look and feel as if it's assembled properly, including the handle properly opening the door, but then when you go to use the key, you will see the problem. I suppose if you never use the key it's not an issue but our keyless entry units have all long since died.
c. With the door open (duh) hold the handle with your left hand, placing your thumb over the keyway. Notice if you push a bit with your thumb the handle hinges in a bit, which tends to point the lock rod a bit more toward the front of the car. Begin to insert the handle into its access hole.
d. Locating the lock rod: As you put the door handle into position, peer through its hole and watch the lock rod approach the latch assembly. Flashlight will help here. Once you get close, you'll see the rod is about 1/4" too far back (too far to the right) to match up with its slot. You'll need to basically memorize the relative positions, then work blind and, using the right hand, stick a screwdriver in from the side to push the rod into position. Keep pressure inward with the left hand, and once the rod has lined up properly, the handle should move into its final position against the door. Secure it with one of its screws.
e. Check the operation of the key. Smooth action with proper clicking sounds, door lock knob going up and down, etc, these are what you want. If you didn't get it, take out the 2 torx screws and repeat the process. It took me about 5 tries to get it. Note that at this point the hook on the handle probably has not properly engaged its lever on the new assembly, so don't try to use the handle to open and close the door.
f. Now that the key rod is happy, we have to make sure the hook on the door handle is properly engaged. If you move around to the inside of the door and (use flashlight) peer rearwards through the access cutout you will probably be able to barely see the hook and its location relative to its mating pin. This step is why we have left the mounting screw LOOSE, because we have to be able to sweat the assembly forward to allow the hook clearance to move over its pin. Maybe you'll be lucky and it will snap into place. I had to use a hook tool (okay, I admit, I used the lock knob and rod... perfect tool!) to reach back there and pull forward on the assembly. I was able to use my tool to hook onto the pin lever that engages the door handle and pull it forward. It needed about 1/16" of persuasion in order to allow the hook to click into position.
g. Snug up the torx screws, retest key locking, and test latch function. If all's swell, put in remaining screws and torque to spec.
1. I believe the problem was not with the switch, but was due to wear in the part that presses on the switch. It looked like the part was no longer pushing hard enough on the switch to activate it. If I had not already ordered a new assembly and had it in hand I would have been willing to put a dab of something in there to take up the gap (JB Weld, epoxy, etc...) and I bet that would have worked for another few years.
2. A thousand thanks to VCA for the Alldata PDF's. Without them, the job would have been a mess. I would have dismantled much more of the door than was necessary. However, the PDF's could have been better edited and detailed. The one step that is ultra-tricky is replacing the door handle, specifically lining up the lock rod with the slot on the new assembly. It's not like disassembly, where you rotate away the latch assembly to disengage it from the handle. I'll try to fill in the gap here (insert these steps after the PDF instructions that tell you to put the latch assembly into position and install ONE torx screw LOOSELY to hold it in place).
This all relates to the driver's door btw.
a. Have a flashlight and a slim standard screwdriver handy.
b. Here's the problem: the path of least resistance when replacing the door handle will result in the lock rod MISSING its slot in the latch assembly. It will want to lodge itself too far to the rear of the door. Everything will look and feel as if it's assembled properly, including the handle properly opening the door, but then when you go to use the key, you will see the problem. I suppose if you never use the key it's not an issue but our keyless entry units have all long since died.
c. With the door open (duh) hold the handle with your left hand, placing your thumb over the keyway. Notice if you push a bit with your thumb the handle hinges in a bit, which tends to point the lock rod a bit more toward the front of the car. Begin to insert the handle into its access hole.
d. Locating the lock rod: As you put the door handle into position, peer through its hole and watch the lock rod approach the latch assembly. Flashlight will help here. Once you get close, you'll see the rod is about 1/4" too far back (too far to the right) to match up with its slot. You'll need to basically memorize the relative positions, then work blind and, using the right hand, stick a screwdriver in from the side to push the rod into position. Keep pressure inward with the left hand, and once the rod has lined up properly, the handle should move into its final position against the door. Secure it with one of its screws.
e. Check the operation of the key. Smooth action with proper clicking sounds, door lock knob going up and down, etc, these are what you want. If you didn't get it, take out the 2 torx screws and repeat the process. It took me about 5 tries to get it. Note that at this point the hook on the handle probably has not properly engaged its lever on the new assembly, so don't try to use the handle to open and close the door.
f. Now that the key rod is happy, we have to make sure the hook on the door handle is properly engaged. If you move around to the inside of the door and (use flashlight) peer rearwards through the access cutout you will probably be able to barely see the hook and its location relative to its mating pin. This step is why we have left the mounting screw LOOSE, because we have to be able to sweat the assembly forward to allow the hook clearance to move over its pin. Maybe you'll be lucky and it will snap into place. I had to use a hook tool (okay, I admit, I used the lock knob and rod... perfect tool!) to reach back there and pull forward on the assembly. I was able to use my tool to hook onto the pin lever that engages the door handle and pull it forward. It needed about 1/16" of persuasion in order to allow the hook to click into position.
g. Snug up the torx screws, retest key locking, and test latch function. If all's swell, put in remaining screws and torque to spec.
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MadeInJapan
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Ah cool....looked like MIJ. 
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
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matthew1
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MJJ, good tips, thanks. Added to Volvo Repair Database.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post
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RJSmeltzer
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I need to replace lock control module as well. Can anyone send me the PDF link ????? PLEASE
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