Another ETM saga; 2002 S60

[Greenthumb]

Where do I start.. picked up a 02' s60 NA with 200k miles. Had to do throttle relearn to test drive. Did great! Exchanged money and poof. Left me in limp every 2 miles until it stopped relearning period. Fast-forward, I learn about the TPS issues. I ordered a Saucer tps sensor and installed. The highest I can get the voltage between pins 1&3 is 1.31v. Unfortunately I learned about the importance of measuring voltage after the deed was done. I briefly got it to kick out of limp mode after somehow getting rid of the stored 9190 and 914f codes, hearing the ETM wine and relearn and it fell back into it after a quick rev. I don't hear the etm whining or even trying to do anything at least with these codes active. With my Autel 808 I can see moving the butterfly valve does make the voltage respond and it will correlate to throttle % in my scanner. I am now waiting for my DiCE scanner (actually a J2534 that will work with 2014d, legit vida, and vdash, etc) to ship, and i'm losing hope and thinking this ETM is dead/dying.

My part number is 8644345- White label. I found a Yellow label 8644347 harvested from a 2000 v70 NA on ebay, actually rebuilt by xeMODex for the rich price of $145. I am also waiting for this ETM to ship. From my research its a complete gamble. Maybe I can clear stored codes in Vida and my original works (although I doubt it at this point) and maybe the yellow label will work.. if not does anyone know how I could get in touch with doublebug to clone my ETM to the new one? I would be so grateful, this whole project feels like saving the unsavable from the junkyard and I've questioned my own judgement quite a bit lol. I'm heavily leaning towards making the cheap xeMODex work even if I need to program it (hopefully doublebug comes in and saves my ship, literally! lol). I paid $900 for the car, i'm really not trying to spend big dollars on OEM or sending mine out to xeMODex honestly.

Edit- sigh.. just seen doublebug hasn't been active since 2018. If anyone has any other suggestions for cloning the etm if need be, I am all ears.

[abscate]

Sergey, aka Yagger runsTotal Tech in San Jose now. You can find his contacts on this board.

The $200 fix ( with patience) is the late white label contactless ETM from Volvo, referenced in the ETM room forum, below

[dikidera]

Where do I start.. picked up a 02' s60 NA with 200k miles. Had to do throttle relearn to test drive. Did great! Exchanged money and poof. Left me in limp every 2 miles until it stopped relearning period. Fast-forward, I learn about the TPS issues. I ordered a Saucer tps sensor and installed. The highest I can get the voltage between pins 1&3 is 1.31v. Unfortunately I learned about the importance of measuring voltage after the deed was done. I briefly got it to kick out of limp mode after somehow getting rid of the stored 9190 and 914f codes, hearing the ETM wine and relearn and it fell back into it after a quick rev. I don't hear the etm whining or even trying to do anything at least with these codes active. With my Autel 808 I can see moving the butterfly valve does make the voltage respond and it will correlate to throttle % in my scanner. I am now waiting for my DiCE scanner (actually a J2534 that will work with 2014d, legit vida, and vdash, etc) to ship, and i'm losing hope and thinking this ETM is dead/dying.

My part number is 8644345- White label. I found a Yellow label 8644347 harvested from a 2000 v70 NA on ebay, actually rebuilt by xeMODex for the rich price of $145. I am also waiting for this ETM to ship. From my research its a complete gamble. Maybe I can clear stored codes in Vida and my original works (although I doubt it at this point) and maybe the yellow label will work.. if not does anyone know how I could get in touch with doublebug to clone my ETM to the new one? I would be so grateful, this whole project feels like saving the unsavable from the junkyard and I've questioned my own judgement quite a bit lol. I'm heavily leaning towards making the cheap xeMODex work even if I need to program it (hopefully doublebug comes in and saves my ship, literally! lol). I paid $900 for the car, i'm really not trying to spend big dollars on OEM or sending mine out to xeMODex honestly.

Edit- sigh.. just seen doublebug hasn't been active since 2018. If anyone has any other suggestions for cloning the etm if need be, I am all ears.

While it could be the voltages not being measured, sometimes the issue is not just the TPS or sometimes is not the TPS, but the magnet shaft inside, it expands and start rubbing on the coil, causing the insulation of the coil to break down and via the magnet shaft, short to ground.
Sometimes you can test this by moving the throttle plate by hand(car off obviously), if you feel any resistance in the movement e.g slight bindings, then very likely it is shorting. Can also be measured by having the ETM plugged in the car, but unbolting completely from the engine with IGN KEY POS II. Put it on an insulated surface, say cardboard and try to measure if it has voltage from the body to the car chassis via an multimeter, as you move the throttle plate slowly, this also confirms the issue.

And if we are talking voltages, the ETMs can also suffer from power board issues.

[Greenthumb]

I never could get the old ETM to work despite screwing with it.. I actually stopped hearing it whine and turn on. However I do have good news (and a VERY understated method, IMO). I also did not detect any significant current when probing the ETM on an insulated surface and grounding the other probe. No idea what is even going on with that etm, honestly. I just know I followed all the instructions to install the sensor and it still failed for some odd reason. I fiddled with it for at least a week.

The new Xemodex rebuilt ETM came in, no limp mode but the software was wrong. I ended up using Vdash and for $45 I cloned my old etm to my new one despite the part numbers being different and my car now runs and idles amazing and no more codes. I dug around quite a bit and found a singular forum where someone talked about cloning it themselves. It was very straight forward, it takes about 10 minutes to read/copy the old etm and about one minute to write it. After copying, it will prompt you to disconnect the original ETM and connect the new one. I am very pleased because most services charge $100-150 for the service. The etm + cloning ended up costing about the same as a sacer sensor.. so not bad to end up with a xemodex instead

I understand most threads on this issue are older, but man it would have saved me some trouble if I knew it was quite that simple, and that the 8644345 and 8644347 part numbers are interchangeable if you clone/reload

BTW I did find the new white label on ebay but it was almost $300, and it claimed if you have the 8644345 (white label) you still need to reload anyways, so it wouldn't have been plug and play anyways.

Now I can move on to the c30 I bought that bent every single valve in the cylinder head.. lol

[abscate]

eBay sellers pull them ftom junkyards for $50 and resell for $150-300, they have no knowledge or insight into the software. They hedge that you have to reprogram to cover their return loss , of course

My experience with the newest, non contact Swedish made ETM has been plug and play on three different occasions now.

That part number is 36050563