2000 V70 XC new car problems Topic is solved

[cassii2]

I just recently bought a 2000 V70 XC! Very excited to have this car, it's been a few years since I last owned a Volvo and I always loved them.

However there's some problems I can't really figure out how to fix. When I come to a stop, like approaching a stoplight or stopping in a parking lot to back up, my engine RPMs go really low and sometimes stalls. If it doesn't stall, it comes right back up to normal idle speed and stays there. I've been getting around this problem by making sure I start coasting for a bit before slowing to the stop light gently, as it seems to happen right when I let off the gas and it's more likely to stall when I brake quickly.

Also when I start the car up it tends to stall almost immediately, and sometimes I need to turn the key back and forth a few times before cranking to get it to start up. After it starts I need to push the gas a little and slowly let it go after about 15 seconds of keeping it at 3000 RPMs, or else it stalls.

There may be something wrong with the turbo too? I don't feel any power from the turbo even with my foot all the way down, it feels like I'm driving a NA car, but as far as I could see all the tubing is connected just fine and the previous owner had some work done with the turbo system a couple years ago, so I'm assuming for now that the turbo is fine.

The check engine light isn't coming on (the light works, it glows after turning the key before starting the car), the battery and alternator are good, I don't think it's caused by the MAF and I never hear any misfires or see a rough idle once the RPMs jump back up to normal.

Is this a vacuum leak somewhere, or could it be something else? If anyone has any thoughts I'd greatly appreciate some help with this

[Vova585]

You might possibly have several issues with this car. First, I would check the fuel pressure(check valve to the side of the injector rail. Around 3-3.5bar with car running, 1 bar with car being off. ). Next, start the car. Bring to operating temperature and in stationary position rapidly press brake pedal and hold- car stalled-more likely that not, you brake booster diaphragm is broken. From there pinch a vaccum line to brake booster and repeat the test- car runs great= you confirmed the problem. Car still stalls(assuming the fuel pressure is steady and no obvious air leak)- here it would be tough what to suggest next. But assuming car runs great with brake pedal applied in stationary mode and only stalls upon driving- torque converter would be my next suspect. Thats where I would start.

[abscate]

Stalling on rundown is a classic fairly large vacuum leak

Candidates are:

Evap system
Snorkel
Brake booster and hoses

Evap system has hidden hoses under the intake manifold which live for 15 years then fall apart.

You have to either smoke test or take everything apart to inspect, “ looking at them “ accomplishes nothing.

[cassii2]

I think the man I bought it from was hiding some issues, I knew it wasn't a perfect car when I bought it but more has popped up in the time I've been using it. The codes P1238, P0121, P0014, and P0171 have showed up. The car does have a rough idle now, but not all the time, seems to appear shortly after warming up but goes away after another 30 minutes or so of driving.

I've tried pushing the brakes really hard when parked and idling, but that didn't change anything - guess I can rule out a vacuum leak there at least. I haven't had the time to do any other tests yet. My work is having a bit of an emergency so I've been working since the 15th and until the 23rd with a 30-60 minute drive each way. I'm pretty worried about the car, it seems to run fine on the highway but I know it needs work on it and I'm not going to be able to do any of it for a few more days and I'm depending on it to get me to and from work.

When I get a day off, I'll go buy a fuel pressure gauge, take a closer look at all the fuses and relays with my multimeter, and start pinching some vacuum lines to see if I can find any problems quickly that way. I'll see if I can find any smoke machines cheap enough for me to buy it too. Hoping this car will keep going as it is for another week first before anything new comes up

[scot850]

The rough running might be related to the ECT (Engine coolant temperature sensor). The connector for it can corrode or the unit fail. IT is one part that is recommended to use Volvo OE (expensive) as there has been no aftermarket one that has proved reliable out the box consistently. It would explain the rough cold running but ok at normal temperature. That could explain some of the other issues when cold but then the car running ok when warm.

The next time I buy a car when the owner has not 'forgotten' about the issue and reason they are really selling it will be the first!

While these cars can be good to drive, it is not the particular model I would suggest buying if you don't do all your own repairs or have a deep wallet and ideally a hoist to work on. Many parts are now no longer available at the rear end of the car mechanically. There are some aftermarket alternatives now coming out like the fuel pump (don't buy ProParts Sweden unit).

I'm sure like me the other MVS members will do our best to support you to hopefully get the car running well.

P1238 - Turbo Control Valve (TCV) - This can be the valve or the vacuum pipes that run from it to the engine and turbo need replaced. A larger leak elsewhere as suggested by others can also affect this issue.

P0121 - Throttle position sensor (ETM). Well known issue. This parts fails with age. Use part/Xemodex rebuilt part/Ebay part). This will also cause rough running, poor performance.

P0014 - Cam position sensor. There can be several reasons for this including CVVT solenoid needing cleaned or replace, timing belt fitted wrongly (tooth out) or the sensor itself.

P0171 - Engine running lean. This goes back to the engine turbo inlet to ETM hoses (cracked/loose), intercooler cracked, other vacuum hoses cracked or leaking.


Good Luck,

Neil.

[Vova585]

If you need a reliable transportation, 2000v70xc is not that without likely dumping 4-5k into it(assuming you are doing most of the work yourself). If you have no time and passion for this car- better walk out now before you will be having "Stockholm syndrome "(meaning "I invested so much into this car, one more repair/part and it will be reliable "). If this car was neglected, you will need to take "peel the onnion" aproach. Meaning to start with basics maintenance using quality parts(fcp euro would be my suggestion).
At this time, i would- inspect air filter. Make sure it is clean and if quite worn-replace with new.
While next to the air filter- remove and clean maf with proper maf cleaning spray. Get yourslef a good fuel injector cleaner additive(i like royal purple, but others will work ok) and run it every fuel tank refill(you dont have much time now, so this will be easy thing). Can also do "glove test" for pcv system.
In terms of likely needed work..Fuel filter, air, cabin. Followed by replacing vaccum hoses to your TCV(ipd sells good silicone color coded kit). Then your timming belt, pcv system(pain), transmission drain/refill services...
Lots of members will suggest 1001 more things. 26 year old car of any make/model can't be reliable.
On the other note. You clearly have ability to read the codes. Hopefully you have a scanner capable to show and graph coolant temp(credit to scot850 idea) that you can monitor while driving. This way you can see if input is dropping, but I doubt it is the main issue. You can always try to stop at local junk yard and get yourself maf, tcv, map sensors, injector rail(you have a lean code) and play "swaptronics".

[abscate]

Drive it carefully at 55 until you get through our work crisis. ME7 is a great engine management system and is forgiving of a lot of vacuum leaks. Stay off the boost with a light foot. Clear all the codes and see what comes back. My guess is two are spurious.

If you don’t knowVolvo, you will mess up the timing belt install on an 2000 model and get p0014, thst can wait .