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04 S60 2.4 - Soft Brakes after change Topic is solved

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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Hi guys,

Well, of course nothing goes smoothly or as planned. It is, after all, a Volvo. :lol:

So I changed the rear pads and rotors on my S60 on Saturday. I loosened the bleeder screw, pushed the piston back and some gnarly fluid came out, then re-tightened and topped up fluid. For some reason my brakes are now noticeably softer.

I'm assuming I have to do a proper bleeding procedure now. My question is: When I did the above, I'm failing to see how I would have introduced air into the line. I waited until I had a steady drip of fluid before re-tightening the bleeder screw.

Also: Am I going to have to use VIDA to bleed if I've been driving like this for a couple days? Does anyone have the link to that procedure or is it located within the software.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.
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scot850
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Post by scot850 »

From what you have told us (me) I can't understand why you would have air in the system from what you did, unless you let the fluid level in the master cylinder drop too low introducing air to the ABS pump or air further up in the system.

Can't answer the Vida ABS pump bleed availability, but I think I have read it is there.

I use a pressure bleeder to flush the system. If the fluid is as bad as you say, you really need to do a brake fluid flush. You need about a liter or so of fluid for that. The old fashioned pedal pump process should be sufficient if yo somehow introduced air at the caliper end.

Neil.
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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Thank you scot. I didn't let the level get low, I only had to top up maybe 100ml from fluid lost from the calipers.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.
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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

Brake fluid is too old and needs replaced. "gnarly fluid came out" is the clue.

You moved some different fluid into the caliper where it get quite hot.
Old contaminated brake fluid boils easily, which creates air pockets in your brake lines.

Do a full brake fluid flush.
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Post by jonesg »

RickHaleParker wrote: 20 Jul 2026, 15:06 Brake fluid is too old and needs replaced. "gnarly fluid came out" is the clue.

You moved some different fluid into the caliper where it get quite hot.
Old contaminated brake fluid boils easily, which creates air pockets in your brake lines.

Do a full brake fluid flush.
winner chicken dinner.
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I get the bleeder open about one turn, loop tygon tubing up and over the spring, and pump 250 ml through each caliper on a brake pad or caliper change. I also use new bleeders and send my old ones back to FCP

VIDA is not needed for this.
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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

abscate wrote: 21 Jul 2026, 03:49 I get the bleeder open about one turn, loop tygon tubing up and over the spring, and pump 250 ml through each caliper on a brake pad or caliper change. I also use new bleeders and send my old ones back to FCP
Goes a lot easier and cleaner with a hand pumped vacuum brake bleeder. Kits are ~$10.00 - $30.00 depending on where you shop.

1. Top off brake fluid reservoir.
2. Put hose on bleeder.
3. Pump up a vacuum.
4. Open bleeder.
5. Let old fluid flow into catch can until fluid runs clear.
6. Close bleeder.
7. Repeat 1 - 6 for the other three wheels.
8. Top off fluid again for a fifth time.

The vacuum pulls the old fluid and air out and prevents air from flowing in.
( as long as there is some fluid in the reservoir, so do not let it go dry )
It's an easy one person job with the right tools.
Last edited by RickHaleParker on 21 Jul 2026, 14:35, edited 1 time in total.
Active
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2017 Ford PIU. 3.5l, Twin Turbo, 365 Hp.
............................
Past
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000. ( Killed by a plastic radiator. )
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion ( I moved, the project did not )
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0. ( Transmission dead after sitting for a winter )
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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

jonesg wrote: 20 Jul 2026, 22:51 winner chicken dinner.
Better not be over cooked and stringy. The last one like that cost me ~$800.00 out of pocket. Impacted Throat.
Active
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2017 Ford PIU. 3.5l, Twin Turbo, 365 Hp.
............................
Past
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000. ( Killed by a plastic radiator. )
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion ( I moved, the project did not )
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0. ( Transmission dead after sitting for a winter )
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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

RickHaleParker wrote: 21 Jul 2026, 14:09
abscate wrote: 21 Jul 2026, 03:49 I get the bleeder open about one turn, loop tygon tubing up and over the spring, and pump 250 ml through each caliper on a brake pad or caliper change. I also use new bleeders and send my old ones back to FCP
Goes a lot easier and cleaner with a hand pumped vacuum brake bleeder. Kits are ~$10.00 - $30.00 depending on where you shop.

1. Top off brake fluid reservoir.
2. Put hose on bleeder.
3. Pump up a vacuum.
4. Open bleeder.
5. Let old fluid flow into catch can until fluid runs clear.
6. Close bleeder.
7. Repeat 1 - 6 for the other three wheels.
8. Top off fluid again for a fifth time.

The vacuum pulls the old fluid and air out and prevents air from flowing in.
( as long as there is some fluid in the reservoir, so do not let it go dry )
It's an easy one person job with the right tools.
This is how I have done many brake flushes. AND the hand vacuum pump is great for drawing other fluids and vacuum tests of devices.
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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Holy crap. The comeback of RickHaleParker in my humble thread! Thanks gentlemen (and abscate…)
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.
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