Having a leak... yes. When I started to read this forum, I started with looking at the spark plugs to find a difference. And I had a carbonized plug one cylinder 4 from left to right.
I changed the plug, and opened the fuel ramp to find out if there was some problem with injectors. None. Except one spacer missing but not on cylinder 4.
If I have a leak can I put the fuel ramp upside down (injectors poped out and pointing to the sky and turn key to position II, will I see if one injector leaks ?
Thanks.
Hubert
1993 Volvo 850 doesn't start (Resolved)
Hi all,
I have run the car for now 150 kms since I bought it. From the begining I put in the fuel tank some Metal 5 injector cleaning fluid.
It seems to slowly work better end better. Less acceleration problems. May be the supposed dirty injector is getting cleaned up...
I started the engine after 2 or three cranks. Very good ! First timer after one night sitting in the parking.
Still I'll clean the throttle body to be sure the problem is not sitting there personalized as some dirt or some bird nest or cat hair ball.
Voila...
Hopping it will continue like this.
Hubert
I have run the car for now 150 kms since I bought it. From the begining I put in the fuel tank some Metal 5 injector cleaning fluid.
It seems to slowly work better end better. Less acceleration problems. May be the supposed dirty injector is getting cleaned up...
I started the engine after 2 or three cranks. Very good ! First timer after one night sitting in the parking.
Still I'll clean the throttle body to be sure the problem is not sitting there personalized as some dirt or some bird nest or cat hair ball.
Voila...
Hopping it will continue like this.
Hubert
If I have a leak can I put the fuel ramp upside down (injectors poped out and pointing to the sky and turn key to position II, will I see if one injector leaks ?
I have no idea on that one. Sounds like the injector cleaner maybe doing the trick though. Keep us posted!
2004 XC70
2005 S60 2.5T AWD (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Blue (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Green (gone)
2005 S60 2.5T AWD (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Blue (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Green (gone)
So, so, so...
I am a bit disappointed. The car is starting it again, but...
At first, cold, it would not start at all, except by towing it. If stalled, it would only restart with little pressure on the gas pedal and a lot of cranks.
I changed the plugs (NGK BCPR6ES) and it would start first engine crank.
But then the car got cold (not used) during the night and would not start again in the morning.
After changing the MAF, cleaning the throttle body, changing the fuel filter, double checking fuel pump, and fuel pump relay, it does start after many cranks if I don't wait more then one day in between two uses.
And yesterday morning it had been 2 days... oops. And like expected, I could not start it. And eventually, succeeded by quitting trying ! Yes I was about to quit, stopped cranking, put key from position III to II and the car started !!!!
It is not the first time it does it. But usually I go from III to 0. So I feel the engine stumbles for 2 or three rounds and dies. But there, it started !
I have used, but clean, injectors coming there way to replace mine, but I'm starting to think there is a problem with the plugs... They are brand new. Bought from my local autobacs dealer and from their advice. But what if the reference wouldn't be the good one ?
From the first day I bought the car, this reference, is the one used. I know the previous owner had them changed not long ago before selling the car and had problem since (from what I suspect). I thought there were defective. I was able to clean different parts, get some smoothness, but starting the car has always been the big problem. Another problem is not being able to push the pedal fast without getting the engine to rumble ruffly and finally stall if the pedal is not finally released. Also I get some power holes (like it would like to stall) if the gear is to high compared to expected. Any car would have another behavior more like when you learn how to use the manual gear. Here it is like there is no more sparks coming... Hard for me to explain as I don't have the right technical vocabulary.
And the engine has always been able to start by pulling the car or by letting it run done a slope.
What plugs are you using for a 1993 850 ?
Thanks.
Hubert
I am a bit disappointed. The car is starting it again, but...
At first, cold, it would not start at all, except by towing it. If stalled, it would only restart with little pressure on the gas pedal and a lot of cranks.
I changed the plugs (NGK BCPR6ES) and it would start first engine crank.
But then the car got cold (not used) during the night and would not start again in the morning.
After changing the MAF, cleaning the throttle body, changing the fuel filter, double checking fuel pump, and fuel pump relay, it does start after many cranks if I don't wait more then one day in between two uses.
And yesterday morning it had been 2 days... oops. And like expected, I could not start it. And eventually, succeeded by quitting trying ! Yes I was about to quit, stopped cranking, put key from position III to II and the car started !!!!
It is not the first time it does it. But usually I go from III to 0. So I feel the engine stumbles for 2 or three rounds and dies. But there, it started !
I have used, but clean, injectors coming there way to replace mine, but I'm starting to think there is a problem with the plugs... They are brand new. Bought from my local autobacs dealer and from their advice. But what if the reference wouldn't be the good one ?
From the first day I bought the car, this reference, is the one used. I know the previous owner had them changed not long ago before selling the car and had problem since (from what I suspect). I thought there were defective. I was able to clean different parts, get some smoothness, but starting the car has always been the big problem. Another problem is not being able to push the pedal fast without getting the engine to rumble ruffly and finally stall if the pedal is not finally released. Also I get some power holes (like it would like to stall) if the gear is to high compared to expected. Any car would have another behavior more like when you learn how to use the manual gear. Here it is like there is no more sparks coming... Hard for me to explain as I don't have the right technical vocabulary.
And the engine has always been able to start by pulling the car or by letting it run done a slope.
What plugs are you using for a 1993 850 ?
Thanks.
Hubert
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MadeInJapan
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 13434
- Joined: 31 March 2005
- Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
- Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
- Has thanked: 17 times
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Most people use plain (cheap) copper core Bosch plugs in the non-turbo models...gap your plugs to 0.028 inches or less...down to 0.026, but not under this amount. Check your NGK plug gaps....I don't see why these plugs wouldn't work unless the gap is too big.
Good luck!
Good luck!
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
Thank you MIJ for the info.
I already had the numbers but had not checked the plugs as they were new ones. Obviously I should have.
What a difference ! The gap on all of my sparks was : 0.032 inch. It is now 0.025.
So the car started in the second. It was like 3 seconds yesterday.
And I have (in the parking at least) no more hole in the acceleration ! I can push the pedal full throttle with no respons time gap. The engine has a nice stable idle.
I'll check the car by driving it tomorrow, and starting it cold. I'll keep you update.
Hubert
I already had the numbers but had not checked the plugs as they were new ones. Obviously I should have.
What a difference ! The gap on all of my sparks was : 0.032 inch. It is now 0.025.
So the car started in the second. It was like 3 seconds yesterday.
And I have (in the parking at least) no more hole in the acceleration ! I can push the pedal full throttle with no respons time gap. The engine has a nice stable idle.
I'll check the car by driving it tomorrow, and starting it cold. I'll keep you update.
Hubert
-
MadeInJapan
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 13434
- Joined: 31 March 2005
- Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
- Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
- Has thanked: 17 times
- Been thanked: 35 times
Glad that made a difference for you!!
Even if certain plugs say they are pre-gapped, I always check them because they are often wrong.
Even if certain plugs say they are pre-gapped, I always check them because they are often wrong.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
Hi everyone.
Yes it did. Car started cold into 2 cranks. I never experienced a so rapid start.
Car is way smoother then before. I can accelerate full throttle and the car flies.
I'll see with time if it sticks that way and tell you.
So to wrap up :
- Fuel filter changed with new (didn't see any difference, but was needed as the previous owner drove the car for many months without fuel cap).
- Injection5 Injector cleaner in fuel (I saw a progressive influence while consuming the treated fuel. Injectors were working better).
- MAF changed with used one (dramatic influence on idle and acceleration)
- Throttle body cleaned with carb cleaner (influence on the odor of the exhaust and less rough idle)
- Gap on spark plugs tuned (that the main problem, even new spark plugs were not correctly adjusted for the car).
Voila.
Take care, drive carefully.
Hubert
Yes it did. Car started cold into 2 cranks. I never experienced a so rapid start.
Car is way smoother then before. I can accelerate full throttle and the car flies.
I'll see with time if it sticks that way and tell you.
So to wrap up :
- Fuel filter changed with new (didn't see any difference, but was needed as the previous owner drove the car for many months without fuel cap).
- Injection5 Injector cleaner in fuel (I saw a progressive influence while consuming the treated fuel. Injectors were working better).
- MAF changed with used one (dramatic influence on idle and acceleration)
- Throttle body cleaned with carb cleaner (influence on the odor of the exhaust and less rough idle)
- Gap on spark plugs tuned (that the main problem, even new spark plugs were not correctly adjusted for the car).
Voila.
Take care, drive carefully.
Hubert
Hi guys !
So I drove the car for some time now since my previous post. And it started again to act strange. But it came slowly, so I thought it could be either the plugs that were starting to take their normal life and settings. Or some other part or cable or....
So I checked. I was in my underground parking, engine running, poor idling, and stalling when pushing the gas at max very quickly. Then the parking automatic light went out. I was nearly in the dark. Still, I was checking with my headlight, cables and so on, playing with the gas. Then my eye was caught by some sparkles coming out from under the ignition coil !
Each time I turn the gas wheel at max and the engine starting to mumble, sparkles were coming out from inside the ignition coil.
I did double, triple, check the ignition coil before. It did send sparkles to the plugs. So I thought everything was fine ! But NO. It must have been the problem from the beginning ! All what I changed was useless.
Changing and adjusting the plugs did the trick to bypassing the coil problem but as the coil is dying slowly, it doesn't suffise anymore.
So guys, check the ignition coil in the dark !
I can now drive the car with the wrong clutch engaged and it is still smooth. Before I had to be right on target otherwise I would stall. And when the car was warm, then it would be awful. Very tricky. I had to get the engine to a certain rpm so I could engage the clutch.
Voila. I did change the ignition coil with one found on ebay. And all is great now.
Cheers.
Hubert
So I drove the car for some time now since my previous post. And it started again to act strange. But it came slowly, so I thought it could be either the plugs that were starting to take their normal life and settings. Or some other part or cable or....
So I checked. I was in my underground parking, engine running, poor idling, and stalling when pushing the gas at max very quickly. Then the parking automatic light went out. I was nearly in the dark. Still, I was checking with my headlight, cables and so on, playing with the gas. Then my eye was caught by some sparkles coming out from under the ignition coil !
Each time I turn the gas wheel at max and the engine starting to mumble, sparkles were coming out from inside the ignition coil.
I did double, triple, check the ignition coil before. It did send sparkles to the plugs. So I thought everything was fine ! But NO. It must have been the problem from the beginning ! All what I changed was useless.
Changing and adjusting the plugs did the trick to bypassing the coil problem but as the coil is dying slowly, it doesn't suffise anymore.
So guys, check the ignition coil in the dark !
I can now drive the car with the wrong clutch engaged and it is still smooth. Before I had to be right on target otherwise I would stall. And when the car was warm, then it would be awful. Very tricky. I had to get the engine to a certain rpm so I could engage the clutch.
Voila. I did change the ignition coil with one found on ebay. And all is great now.
Cheers.
Hubert
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