Login Register

bad knocking from the rear passenger side

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

Post Reply
webble88
Posts: 3
Joined: 22 October 2008
Year and Model:
Location:

bad knocking from the rear passenger side

Post by webble88 »

hello im new to this site, and this is my first post!

there is a severe knocking coming from the rear passenger side of my 850 t5 u.k. model :) i have been told that it could be a "delta link bush"? this is a expensive part to buy from volvo.... so i was wondering before i buy it, is there anything else it could be????

thanx webble88

MadeInJapan
MVS Moderator
Posts: 13434
Joined: 31 March 2005
Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Post by MadeInJapan »

That sounds like what it could be without knowing more- like whether it seems to be rhythmic with the rotation of the wheel or not. There is a great write-up on how to deal with that bushing in the repair database.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

JRL
Posts: 9350
Joined: 22 November 2005
Year and Model: Several
Location: 19333
Been thanked: 16 times

Post by JRL »

It could be
It could also be a broken shock, a broken shock mount or a broken shock bumper.
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

Ozark Lee
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14798
Joined: 7 September 2006
Year and Model: Many Volvos
Location: USA Midwest
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 75 times

Post by Ozark Lee »

There is a great write-up on how to deal with that bushing in the repair database.
Actually there was but it went away with the conversion. I hope Matt can get that one back because I don't know that I can recreate it from pure memory.

webble,

If you are getting very loud clunks when you hit bumps it very well could be the end links for the delta arms.

Here are a couple of pictures that will help you with the inspection.

ImageImage

This is what they look like when they are bad. Yours may not look as awful as mine were.

The ball joint should be completely immersed in the rubber and have very little vertical movement.

Here is a bad one off the car:

ImageImage

Here is a good one:

ImageImage

The best way to check them is to jack the car up and, as it is going up look for vertical movement at the point where the delta arms bolt to the frame. Any movement is to much.

Cost wise for the parts I paid around USD $100.00 each for them but they were aftermarket. So far so good on the aftermarket parts. It has been a couple of years and around 40k miles and they are holding up fine.

Other places to look is your upper shock mounts and your bushings that tie the two delta links together.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

MadeInJapan
MVS Moderator
Posts: 13434
Joined: 31 March 2005
Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Post by MadeInJapan »

'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

Ozark Lee
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14798
Joined: 7 September 2006
Year and Model: Many Volvos
Location: USA Midwest
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 75 times

Post by Ozark Lee »

Matt managed to save it from a google cache - thank goodness.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

webble88
Posts: 3
Joined: 22 October 2008
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by webble88 »

thanx every one! i have jacked up the car, as suspected it is the end links!! There is alot of up and down play so it needs replaced....

Volvo main dealer quoted me £135!!!! just for the part :shock:

Thanx agen Webble

Wingman45
Posts: 15
Joined: 13 April 2008
Year and Model: '98 T-5 V70R
Location: Culpeper, VA

Post by Wingman45 »

There are places to get them cheaper, I believe, if you look around some. For what it's worth, as you jump into this project, you will likely learn that if you don't know how, these rascals can be a BEAR to replace. It was my first Volvo experience (prior to Matthew's enlightement 8) and I spent a whole day just trying to get the old one out. I read somewhere that it's such a pain to remove, Volvo made a special tool just to remove these links.
Well, here's how I did mine, I hope it saves someone the 5+ hours of cussing and beating and torch melting that I put into it... without even a wiggle!!! Once I figured it out, it took about 6 seconds. I got my replacement from a junk yard for $10. I figured if it was tight and the rubber looked good, it was way better than the old one! And way better then $100+ dollars! :-D
1) I started by removing the two inside bolts on the retention plate, then the longer one that goes through the "bushing".
2) This should allow the whole arm to drop down some.
3) If I remember there is another bolt through the arm (vertically), just inboard of where the bushing is. Remove this one too.
4) The piece with the bushing now needs to be pulled straight out of the "tube" that is the arm.
5) If you have a slide hammer with a hook that will go into the bushing hole, that would be ideal. I did not. I bought about 30" of small, welded link, chain. It was small enough to be fed through the main bushing hole. I passed it through and secured it back to itself with a clevis ( or bolt ). I then wrapped the other end around the head of a 5lb hammer and secured it back to itself.
6) The easy part. I held the hammer up so the chain was slack and "snapped" it straight out, in line with the arm. The whole piece popped free with one tug. I was shocked. If this can save one person the day of aggravation I had, it will be well worth it! Good Luck!

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post