Hi,
Stupid question -- I can't seem to get at the spark plugs on my s40 to replace them.
Any step by step instructions for removing the metal piece that seems to be permanently attached to the plugs?
Any help would be VERY much appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
Spark Plug Replacement 2001 S40 Topic is solved
-
Former S140 Owner
Hello.
You probably have an answer already, but here it goes: 1) You will need a set of Torx screw driver bits and the appropiate ratchet to drive them, i.e., 3/8". I believe it's a size 30. You will also need a LONG, 6-point socket to remove the plugs. I believe the size is 16 mm. I would use masking tape inside the socket to make sure you pull the plug out once you unscrew it from the block. You'll also need a SIX point 10mm socket.
2) Remove the Torx screws holding the dark gray plastic covers (2-piece) on top of the engine with the "Volvo" logo. It's actually two pieces. on the passenger side, you will have to remove two spring clips after you remove the screws. Make absolutely sure you put the screws and related parts where you can find them later (don't put them on the fender lip, for example). I have dropped hardware into the engine compartment that way, and I had to remove the plastic tray under the engine to retrieve them.
3) You will now see the spark plug wires. The two on the left side of the engine are just regular ignition wires with rubber boots. Pull them staright up by grasping at the rubber boot, not the wire. You can buy a special pair of pliers for this, but I don't think it's necessary. I would not remove more than one at a time to avoid confusion about which wire goes where. The other two plugs (right side) are connected to two ignition modules (ignitors?), which are combined with the spark plugs wires. To remove them, disconnect the primary connector (press on the little tabs and pull gently), then use a SIX point 10mm socket to undo the screw holding it to the top of the block. Gap your plugs before reinstalling them, and torque them according to specs in the manual. If you do not have a torque wrench, seat the plugs by hand, and do not turn them past 1/4 turn to tighten. Remember that you are driving steel threads into a soft aluminium alloy.
4) I believe the rest is self-explanatory. Before starting the engine, check to make sure you re-connected everything where it belongs, and do not leave any tools on top of the engine compartment. I usually test-run the engine before I replace the plastic covers with the screws.
Enjoy!
You probably have an answer already, but here it goes: 1) You will need a set of Torx screw driver bits and the appropiate ratchet to drive them, i.e., 3/8". I believe it's a size 30. You will also need a LONG, 6-point socket to remove the plugs. I believe the size is 16 mm. I would use masking tape inside the socket to make sure you pull the plug out once you unscrew it from the block. You'll also need a SIX point 10mm socket.
2) Remove the Torx screws holding the dark gray plastic covers (2-piece) on top of the engine with the "Volvo" logo. It's actually two pieces. on the passenger side, you will have to remove two spring clips after you remove the screws. Make absolutely sure you put the screws and related parts where you can find them later (don't put them on the fender lip, for example). I have dropped hardware into the engine compartment that way, and I had to remove the plastic tray under the engine to retrieve them.
3) You will now see the spark plug wires. The two on the left side of the engine are just regular ignition wires with rubber boots. Pull them staright up by grasping at the rubber boot, not the wire. You can buy a special pair of pliers for this, but I don't think it's necessary. I would not remove more than one at a time to avoid confusion about which wire goes where. The other two plugs (right side) are connected to two ignition modules (ignitors?), which are combined with the spark plugs wires. To remove them, disconnect the primary connector (press on the little tabs and pull gently), then use a SIX point 10mm socket to undo the screw holding it to the top of the block. Gap your plugs before reinstalling them, and torque them according to specs in the manual. If you do not have a torque wrench, seat the plugs by hand, and do not turn them past 1/4 turn to tighten. Remember that you are driving steel threads into a soft aluminium alloy.
4) I believe the rest is self-explanatory. Before starting the engine, check to make sure you re-connected everything where it belongs, and do not leave any tools on top of the engine compartment. I usually test-run the engine before I replace the plastic covers with the screws.
Enjoy!
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 3 Replies
- 2483 Views
-
Last post by Roger_850T
-
- 1 Replies
- 3635 Views
-
Last post by abscate






