Timing Belt again

Rysieq · Post by **Rysieq** » 03 Dec 2008, 22:15

I have a S70 1998 with 115k miles on it and want to replace the TB, mechanical belt tensioner, idler pulley and a water pump while I am in there. I have been reading a lot on how to do it and most articles call for 999 5433 counterhold tool to hold the crankshaft in place after all markings are lined up. I tried doing it without removing the crankshaft 30mm bolt, but cannot slip the TB over and inside. Tried to find the 5433 tool on the Internet, but it is not available anywhere. Dealers tell me they don't sell such a tool.

Is there a way to replace the TB w/o removing the 30mm bolt and the vibration damper? If not, is there a place where I can purchase the special tool 5433 or an equivalent?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 04 Dec 2008, 06:23

I don't remove the crank pulley to change the TB. I usually cut the old belt off as for some reason, it is much easier to get the new one on then the old one off around the pulley. I also don't use anything to hold the camshaft gears together. Just be careful not to hit them with something while you are working around them. And if you do happen to move one of them you can just put the top cover back on and realign.

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 04 Dec 2008, 06:25

Just saw that you menitioned holding the crankshaft in place, it takes quite a lot of effort to move the crankshaft, certainly more then what would be applied doing a TB change.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 04 Dec 2008, 07:47

Once you have the old belt off don't even think of trying to remove the crankshaft bolt. The belt will go on, it is a matter of starting at the bottom and twisting the belt sideways to clear the obstructions behind the pulley. As I recall it works best with the toothed side of the belt toward the block. It takes a little futzing with but it will go.

...Lee

chuckcintron · Post by **chuckcintron** » 04 Dec 2008, 11:36

On the cams...I've always been fine by using a dab of white paint or "white out" to mark their position. If you are really worried about the crank you could do the same. As long as you have reference marks you can always get back to where they need to be.

-Chuck

Rysieq · Post by **Rysieq** » 04 Dec 2008, 15:21

Thank you all for the info. I took all covers off once and lined up all the markings. Did not see enough room between the crankshaft pulley and the engine block to remove the old TB and than put the new one back in. From what I have read, people did slip it through on 850 models, but installs on S70 call for the 5433 tool.

Can someone who replaced the TB on S70 comment if it can be done without removing the crankshaft pulley?

Thanks in advance.

Post by **kranz** » 04 Dec 2008, 17:39

No, you don't need to remove the crank pulley. I have a '98 V70 and made the following comment in an earlier post about my TB experience:

"The step that gave me the most heartburn was getting the old belt from behind the crank pulley. I wrestled with that belt for the longest time with absolutely no progress and became quite discouraged. I finally used one of those small dental mirrors to take a peek at what was going on behind the crank pulley. The gap between the pin and the crank pulley is quite wide enough for the belt to pass through. But it is quite easy for the belt to hang up on the crank pulley especially if twisted. The orientation of the belt is most important. It is essential that the right side of the belt be addressed first with the left side remaining in its place. Earlier in my enthusiasm, I had pulled the left side out from the plastic housing before handling the right side. This was a mistake and it rendered the belt impossible to remove. So I put the left side back and proceeded with the right side. Armed with this new information, it took me about 3 minutes to work the belt into the gap and then extract the left side from the plastic housing. I put the new belt on in reverse order, doing the left side first, followed by the right side. To my surprise it slipped through the gap almost effortlessly with no persuasion required. "

Rysieq · Post by **Rysieq** » 04 Dec 2008, 21:09

Thank you very much guys for all your valuable info. This info was exactly what I was looking for. When I had it all apart I did not see this gap. Will try again in two weeks.
Purchased a cheap Idler Pulley locally in IL with a plastic wheel - did not like it. The old pulley has a metal wheel. Went to a dealer and asked to see the original part and it has a metal wheel. Will be returning the idler pulley and the tensioner - it may not be a reliable unit either. I may just spent extra cash and purchase quality parts from a dealer - it will last another 100k miles.

Want to share some info with all of you regarding a mufler repair kit that I purchased recently and it worked great. Searched this forum and did not find anythig relating to this fix. Will start another post.

Thank you again. This is a great forum!!!!

Post by **Matty Moo** » 04 Dec 2008, 21:34

I spent a good 15 minutes trying to get my belt off, and finally just cut it off. The new one slid on no problem.

Compared to some cars, these aren't that hard at all. You don't have to set the tension, there arent 30 bolts holding the timing cover on, the pulley and starter don't have to come off, the spark plugs are easy to take out and no components have to be removed from the car.

I had a Maxima that took me 9 hours the first time I did it. I had piles of bolts and various tools all over the place. This one was a little over 3 hours. No complaints here.