Window Switch Replacement How To -- excellent!

[jrusch]

Superb technical help on the window switches. My passenger window failed in the down position (of course) on Friday night. I needed to close it somehow. Found this website and instructions on removing the switch and manually manipulating the plastic slider. Window is up and I know the motor is still good. THANKS!!

[vfr]

Thanks aj,
Used your instructions this morning to replace the switch.
The window was stuck down and it is winter time!
Thanks Matthew for a great site.

Merry Christmas to all.

[Twodawgzz]

What a great site!

Rear passenger window on '98 V70R Wagon wouldn't go up as of last night. Google search on "volvo window won't go up" got me directly to this site on the first link.

Followed instructions for popping out the SW. Blew out with my mouth and reinstalled. When I pushed the button, I could hear the motor in the rear passenger door trying to activate, but the window wouldn't go up. Then when I used the switch on the rear passenger door, the window did go up. It then worked properly with the master switch. Probably a SW connection wearing out for that particular window, but I sure now know what to do to either repair or replace the SW if it happens again.

Thanks!!!

[MadeInJapan]

Thanks for coming by!
I hope you end up staying- this is the grand central station for all of your car's repair and maintenance!

Another satisfied customer!

[Xilikon]

Old repair guide but very very useful. My main switch failed yesterday on a sunny day so I was unable to close the driver window (and the rear passenger window, but that's fixed by using the rear passenger switch). Since I was unable to fix that by cleaning the contacts, I was looking at a way to close it. I read another guide pertaining to a 850 switch which indicated how to jumper wires. I tried but jumping does nothing for all windows so I'm bummed out.

The forecast was telling there are a risk of rain during the night, I decided to put a trash bag on the door window along with tape to avoid getting the interior wet (and it indeed rained since that night). Today, after tring to clean the switch contacts the 5th time, I was frustrated so I decided to redo a seach, which led me to that guide. What helped me was reading the part about using a isolated screwdriver to push the contact further so I did it with a ink pen cap and hallelujah, it got up !!

The switch isn't repairable (the contact to get the driver window up got a small pit, which cause it to not contact fully) so I'll order a new one. What saved me with the guide is the trip to my local stealership and I'll save more by ordering online.

[NavyGuy]

Yes! Thank You! I was trying to remove the entire inside door panel and thought there had to be an easier way. Found this nice tutorial, sprayed the module down with electrical cleaner, and voila!

[harvey]

Well, the same basic problem -- first, it was the right rear, then the left no workee. The problem became high priority, when by mistake I hit the rear window switch, instead of the driver window switch and it went down about halfway with no apparent means of raising it again. Removing the switch assembly was a pain, and taking it apart really needs three hands and the same number of very fine-bladed, small pocket knives. I first used a fine brush in an attempt to clean the contacts, and got only the right rear working. Then I got a points (very small) file and gently cleaned the contacts (on all the switches, just in case). And voila, everybody worked. A trick to remember is that during assembly, stand the switch up, so the switch metal poles line up with the contacts female plastic parts. The only other trick was to just push in the connectors just enough, and not click them in all the way, to allow a quick test.

[cn90]

Question re brand...

I have done the Master Switch disassembly and clean the the contacts about 5-6 times.
The switches are getting old, so I am thinking a new switch.

Volvo OEM is about $150.

The aftermarket $23 thingy, this ebay seller has sold more than 450 of this item, so it should be OK.
Anyone with experience with aftermarket switch, which brand do you use?
:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1998-2000-V ... 0629042986

[sleddriver]

CN90:
A couple of years ago, mine was finally beyond repair so I went with a Dorman off of amazon. The finish color is slightly different. So far, no problems.

I repaired mine several times as well. Even filled the crater formed under the drvr side contact with silver solder. Lasted quite awhile, but eventually needed a new unit.

[dosbricks]

I ordered directly from switchdoctor.com and paid $50. It appears that ebay one is the same thing, so a good deal. That was two years ago with no problems, and as stated, no sticky coating. The switchdoctor one is contact-less so not subject to the same failure point as the OE. But the green illumination in the switches is a lot brighter than OE--not a problem relative to saving 100+ USD.