V70GLT 2000 Starting issue - Cold or Hot

Post by **OnlyWagons** » 06 Jan 2009, 13:18

2000 Volvo V70GLT with 160k miles.
New battery
No Codes

Starting issue:
It takes lots of cranking to get this car started. The problem existed in the summer, but is more consistent now, in the winter. It has become especially bad with the recent sub-20F degree temps. Rarely will it fire within the first 5 seconds of cranking. After 3-10 repeated start attempts, the car will always start. Once the car is running, it runs great - no hesistation on acceleration, no bogging, perfect idle.

I put a brand new battery in, which helps the cranking speed, but the symptoms are exactly the same as before I replaced it.

Does this sound like the Crankshaft Position Sensor? Can anyone tell me where that is located?

I don't suspect fuel because the car runs so well once it is idling.

Thanks!

chuckcintron · Post by **chuckcintron** » 06 Jan 2009, 13:28

With no misfire codes I'd suspect fuel delivery first. Either the fuel pump relay or the check valve on the fuel line...which I don't recall if on your car is on the fuel line itself or part of the fuel pump assembly. I think it may be in the pump.

Edit: I should have elaborated a bit on the check valve.

The check valve prevents the fuel from siphoning back into the fuel tank when the car is off. Picture a drinking straw where the fluid drains out of the straw, and it's dry. Your fuel line is the straw. This could be the reason you are taking so many tries to start the car. To test this, turn the key to the 'on' position, listen for the fuel pump to run for about 5 seconds and it will cycle off (if the relay is working!). Do not start the car. Do this four or five times -- to charge the fuel line up with fuel. Then right away, try to start the car. If it starts then the check valve is very suspicious.

-Chuck

Post by **matthew1** » 06 Jan 2009, 13:36

Check the basics: spark plugs (replace em, they're cheap), air filter.

chuckcintron · Post by **chuckcintron** » 06 Jan 2009, 13:43

Matt's right on that...I'm assuming your car is in a good state of tune...if not then do the basic tune-up first.

-Chuck

Post by **OnlyWagons** » 06 Jan 2009, 15:33

Thanks guys! Great advice.

To test this, turn the key to the 'on' position, listen for the fuel pump to run for about 5 seconds and it will cycle off (if the relay is working!).

This uncovered something I hadn't noticed before...that the fuel pump does not come on right away when the key is in the 'ON' position. Sometimes I have to wait 5-10 seconds, then I can hear it turn on and click off. The water temp gauge and ETS light both follow the fuel pump - they don't respond until the fuel pump does. When the pump cycles off, the ETS light turns off as well.

What I must have been doing was cranking the engine before the fuel pump switched on. If I wait with the key in the ON position until the pump cycles, the car starts.

Does this point to the fuel pump relay?

Huge thanks from this FWB noob. My 240 starts right up every time, no matter the temp

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Jan 2009, 15:55

Could be...but could be in your ignition switch too...try jiggling your keys and try this again several times and see if the key jiggle makes any difference at all.

Post by **OnlyWagons** » 06 Jan 2009, 16:37

MadeInJapan wrote:Could be...but could be in your ignition switch too...try jiggling your keys and try this again several times and see if the key jiggle makes any difference at all.

We have a winner! Rotating the key in the slack between position I and II gets a response from the fuel pump. Once it responds, the car starts no problem. This explains why it would happen regardless of whether the car was warm or cold, and why sometimes removing the key from the ignition before trying a restart fixed it as well.

I can't believe it was this easy, and that you guys nailed it so fast! Volvo geniuses!

My donation is definitely coming your way.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Jan 2009, 17:36

"Thank you....thank you very much" (said in an Elvis tone of voice)!
We gladly take donations here- it keeps the site going!
Tell your Volvo friends about us.
-MIJ

Oh, btw, you know that this means- you really need to replace the electrical portion of your ignition switch...not hard. We have a write-up in the repair database, I believe, thanks to Lee.

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 07 Jan 2009, 08:59

Ignition switches wear out when you have the weight of many items and keys hanging on the same key ring as the car key dangling from the ignition switch

Post by **OnlyWagons** » 07 Jan 2009, 09:09

MadeInJapan wrote: Oh, btw, you know that this means- you really need to replace the electrical portion of your ignition switch...not hard. We have a write-up in the repair database, I believe, thanks to Lee.

Thanks, good to know. I'll look that up.

Ignition switches wear out when you have the weight of many items and keys hanging on the same key ring as the car key dangling from the ignition switch

Yes, I bought this car at 142k, and, judging by the amount of candy I found stuck under the back seats, and filth in general, I believe it was owned by the type of person who puts everything on a key chain.