93 850 GLT will not start.

Post by **Carbon15** » 05 Jan 2009, 16:57

I'm going way back in the cobwebs of my mind on this one but... The friend I bought the car off of had to repiar one of the park plug threads. I'm reasonably certain that he said cylinder number 5. The one I found the oil in was the far side passenger side cylinder. Could I be hyraulically locked due to this oil? I haven't seen that since my days of general aviation, working on a radial engine, but at this point, I'm not willing to rule anything out. This has been to much of a pain in the butt for something simple. Maybe I just need to repair that cylinder, he used paste ot a helicoil, the paste isn't permanent.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 05 Jan 2009, 17:38

The one closest to the passenger side (and timing belt) is #1...not #5. #5 is closest to the driver's...and they go in order from left to right (from the front of the car). I really can't comment on the spark plug thread repair as I don't know how your buddy fixed it. If it's a helicoil, it should be fine- paste, no. You should be able to see it if it's a helicoil. I had a Toyota's spark plug thread repaired with one once and it held fine and never had any trouble out of that cylinder.

Post by **holler1** » 05 Jan 2009, 17:43

If the engine were hydraulically locked, it wouldn't even crank over or maybe would crank very slowly. If you are getting a spark at the plugs it has to be cranking. Is it cranking slow? If it is cranking fast, try MIJ's suggestion and hold the gas to the floor and crank it for a minute or two.

chuckcintron · Post by **chuckcintron** » 05 Jan 2009, 18:36

Are you sure you are getting oil on that one plug, or is it just gasoline (turned black from the carbon in the cylinder)?

Here's what I'd do:

1. Take all the plugs out. Let the head breath for a few hours (it's probably flooded now). Swab that suspect cylinder with a long q-tip and see if you are really getting oil. If yes, do a compression test on all five to see where you are at. If not, then good. Even an engine with a hole blown in the top of one piston will still start (may not run too well...but will start).

2. Re-install the plugs, and disconnect the fuel pump. Put a timing light one at a time on each plug wire and assure yourself that when the car is cranked you are seeing a good spark at each plug. "Good" means with an inductive light you get a nice blinding strobe with each trigger. If not good, then suspect the coil (if your wires are new).

3. Reconnect the fuel pump and put a pressure gauge on the Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail. Turn the key to 'on' (not start) and see that the rail is pressurized to spec...whatever it is...probably around 38PSI. Don't go by ear on this. It doesn't matter if you hear the pump running, it could have busted a seam and 90% of the pressure is venting back into the fuel tank. You need to pressure test your rail.

4. Check the throttle body to make sure the large butterfly valve is opening/closing with the cable linkage and everything working ok. Check your air cleaner and the path from it to the TB to make sure it isn't plugged.

5. Try to start the car. Don't mash down on the gas pedal, just try to start it.

If it still doesn't start here's the run down on the next set of suspects, in the order of which they are probable (related to a no-start condition):

a. Fuel pump relay (you already jumpered for this).
b. Cam position sensor. I'd try cleaning it first, especially if you've had a clogged PCV system.
c. Idle/adjust control valve (should hear this buzzing with ignition in 'on' position)
d. MAF (you already tested that by unplugging it).
e. Seriously clogged injectors. Have a shop test them.
f. Sabotage...someone sugared your gas or poured five gallons of water into your fuel tank.
g. Broken timing belt (you'd be getting zero spark).

-Chuck

Post by **holler1** » 05 Jan 2009, 19:03

By the way, for working outside after dark as you are it's hard to beat the little diode "headlamps" that use a stretch strap on the head. I use one now all the time to free up my hands.

Post by **Carbon15** » 06 Jan 2009, 05:33

I don't have a timing light, in fact I'm fairly ill equiped for most maintences as I'm rebuilding my tool box after a divorce. I'm going to try MIJ's suggestioin tonight, I'll crank the starter until it starts or the battery dies. The weather and darkeness have been fighting me on this as well. We've been getting at least one good snow storm a week so far this year up in the North East. If it doesn't start tonight, I'll charge the battery and revisit it this weekend.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Jan 2009, 05:39

I'm off to work so I won't be back on until this evening, but give it a try. Some people might say you'll flood the engine but after so much gas, our cars will shut down the output. Good luck and let us know how things go. To bad you're not in a garage, you could put a charger on it to begin with.

Post by **Carbon15** » 06 Jan 2009, 07:15

A garage would be nice, I do have one at my place in New Hampshire,problem is I can't get there right now. We also have another ice storm coming in this evening, OH JOY. At this point I'm not concerned with flooding the engine, it will wash out some of the oil. That is as long as my injectors aren't totally clogged. At this point they're suspect, as well as the cam sensor. They may have to wait until Saturday. Thanks to all for all the responses, I'm going to get this thing running if it kills me. It's a matter of principle now.

Post by **Carbon15** » 06 Jan 2009, 16:14

Hey MIJ, the old floor the gas peddle till it starts trick worked, thanks for that I wouldn't have though of it. It took abouttwo minutes of cranking on the starter, then it caught. But now I'm kinda feeling like OJ in the naked gun series. This is really bizarre, I can't lock the car. If I use the remote entry button it will lock, and then immediately unlock, same when I use the key. Have I just stumbled into another Volvo Inherent Feature?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Jan 2009, 17:43

Glad to hear it worked!
About the FOB and key....probably just all your finagling about with the starting, you've done something weird with your locks. Try locking and unlocking your car doors from the outside with your actual key 2, no 3 times and see if things work again. Or, similar issue I had with mine- the spring in the ignition isn't releasing...jab your key in there several times and pull it out...see if the lock spring comes back- you'll hear a click. Then, if this was it, spray that hole with some silicone spray and work the key in and out several times.

So, back to your original issue- are you saying it starts consistently now even after you stop your engine? If so, I'm very very happy for you- you've been dealing with this for a couple of days now- good you have a solution.

Oh, and while we're on a roll- MVS gladly accepts donations from its satisfied customers! LOL

93 850 GLT will not start.

Re: 93 850 GLT will not start.