V70GLT 2000 Starting issue - Cold or Hot

[OnlyWagons]

For completeness, I plan to replace this part:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/228

and follow these instructions to do it:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ignit_switch.php

edit: These instructions call for a 15 and 25 torx wrench. On my car (2000 V70), only a 20 Torx was required to remove and replace the all screws holding on the column cover and the switch itself.

thanks again for all the help.

[MadeInJapan]

Right on, brother... don't let the sister's heavy key chain let you down- it's not hard and your Volvo will love you for it!
Great write-up from V.S... you'll get it done without a hitch, I would think. Let us know how things go.
-MIJ

[OnlyWagons]

So I replaced the switch (that was easy), but the problem is basically unchanged. I suppose it was possible that the jigging of the key back and forth was coincidentally timed with the fuel pump ticking on.

The problem is now very clear:

With the key in the II position, if I wait until the ETS light comes on (and hear the fuel pump turn on momentarily), and then crank the ignition over, the car will start.
The amount of time I have to wait varies between 5 seconds and 30 seconds, usually depending on how low the water temp is. The first start in the morning requires the longest wait, while a restart after doing some highway driving requires a short wait.

Once the car starts, if it's cold, the ETS light and the traction control light (an orage triangle on this car) MAY stay on. If this happens, the car idles a little rough. If I restart the car after it warms up, those lights will clear and the car will idle normally.

Any ideas here? I think I may have two different problems, but they may both stem from poor fuel delivery at startup.

Thanks.

[MadeInJapan]

I'm thinking you have an obstruction for it to take so long to get up to the injectors. This could be weather/temperature related as well. When was the last time you changed your fuel filter?

[OnlyWagons]

I'm thinking you have an obstruction for it to take so long to get up to the injectors. This could be weather/temperature related as well. When was the last time you changed your fuel filter?

You are the second person to mention this to me today. I think I'll go ahead and replace the filter, since I have no idea when it was done last. I'll get a new set of plugs and install those as well. Should I go for the fuel pump relay at the same time, or is that not likely a culprit?

thx

[MadeInJapan]

If it's starting at all, I would think your relay is good.
Make sure you DON'T use Bosch Platinum plugs- our cars hate them and you'll have misfires (maybe not at first but within 1000 miles is likely). Good ole copper core cheapy Bosch's work best (unless you buy Volvo turbo plugs). Make sure to gap them to 0.028 inches.

[OnlyWagons]

If it's starting at all, I would think your relay is good.
Make sure you DON'T use Bosch Platinum plugs- our cars hate them and you'll have misfires (maybe not at first but within 1000 miles is likely). Good ole copper core cheapy Bosch's work best (unless you buy Volvo turbo plugs). Make sure to gap them to 0.028 inches.

Thanks for the advice. I installed 5 OEM turbo plugs today (so I'd be sure to have them gapped correctly), which definitely had a positive effect on idle smoothness.
I then installed a new fuel filter, and that seems to have solved the problem. The car starts better, though not perfect. There's no CEL, ETS or TRACS lights on the dash, which is an improvement. I'll know for sure when I have to start it cold tomorrow morning.

[MadeInJapan]

You might pull your negative battery cable for a 15-20 minutes to allow the car's computer to reset (make sure you have your radio code)...this in itself may help smooth things out...the computer was used to how badly thing were running before.
Make sure that you have your key in position II (right before cranking) when you put the battery cable back on.

[OnlyWagons]

Disconnecting the battery helped a lot. Now when the car starts, there is no chance of it going into limp mode.

However, it still takes a random amount of waiting for the fuel pump to kick on with the key in position II. Once it does, the car fires up much stronger than it did before. In normal driving, the improvement of the new fuel filter is obvious. All the work so far has not been wasted, the car drives much better.

Any other ideas to address the slow response of the fuel pump at startup?

[MadeInJapan]

Could be that the fuel pump motor is just getting finicky on you and is on its way out. Warmer weather and it might live a bit longer, but be ready for a pump rebuild or replacement in your future.