740 gle non-turbo 1986 cold weather starting problem
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renarddumarais
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 19 January 2009
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740 gle non-turbo 1986 cold weather starting problem
Winter is here again in Middle Tennessee and "Ole Blue," my 740 GLE wagon that happens to be blue in color has trouble starting on mornings when temperatures dip below 40 degrees F. It has done this for years and I have finally resolved to ask for help in this mystery. I suspect a sticking relay is the problem...but which one? Ole Blue's symptoms: When outside air temps (Blue is not garaged) drop below 40 degrees and I turn on the ignition, the dash seat belt warning light comes on but the other red dash "idiot" light do not. The starter motor will engage and crank away but Ole Blue will not start. I've learned to turn the ignition repeatedly off and on until all the red dash lights come on and then Blue will fire up as if it were a sweltering summer day...just a touch of the ignition and off we go. I can hear a relay kicking in when all the red lights illuminate. The colder it gets the longer it takes for the lights to come on and stay on. A few mornings ago, it was 6 degrees F and after about 3 - 4 mintues of toggling the ignition I gave up. At 32 degrees F, the lights will come on in about 20-30 seconds. In the winter afternoons as I leave work and the car has been in the sun all day, interior warmed up, the lights are on in 3 - 5 seconds. Thanks in advance for any help. The woman of the house has more than suggested multiple times that I put Ole Blue out to pasture, or even the equivalent of giving him to a dog food or fertilizer plant.
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volvoman1980
- Posts: 5
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Hey,
One thing you may want to check is the coolant temp. sensor.(Located under port 3 of the intake manifold.) If it's bad it will register minus a zillion degrees, and superflood the engine. I had a cold start issue with my 1986 740 around christmastime, but it basically was the fact that i was sold a tad bit colder plugs. They were fine for the northeast, but not for -8 or below degrees.(most days in wisconsin winter this year.) New plugs, and after i literally smoked the entire town out, she kicked over and no issues since.(Or you can try putting a propane torch to the electrodes and gap,reinstall while hot-the hotter the better.) Also, a new oxygen sensor, if not already replaced wont do any harm. Advance auto has a single wire, unheated bosch o2 sensor for $17.99.(atleast here in WI, should be the same all over.)The application would be under a 1984 mustang with a 5.0 liter engine-i have the part number if you need it.It will work for 1985 to like 1987 before they installed OBD -Any later models will set off the check engine light.) Just tape off the heater connector for sensor on the vehicle side, and splice the black signal wire to sensor.Do not cut any engine harnesses though, just incase you want to convert back to the OE heated sensor. Or you can get a heated one,(same application ford mustang 5.0 1986-i could get you that part number if youd like- Cut the connector off, and splice into the volvo sensor original wires.) I replaced mine, and my volvo is much better than it has been in awhile. Just a few tips from experience. Hope this helps you a bit. anything more, feel free to ask:) best of luck
One thing you may want to check is the coolant temp. sensor.(Located under port 3 of the intake manifold.) If it's bad it will register minus a zillion degrees, and superflood the engine. I had a cold start issue with my 1986 740 around christmastime, but it basically was the fact that i was sold a tad bit colder plugs. They were fine for the northeast, but not for -8 or below degrees.(most days in wisconsin winter this year.) New plugs, and after i literally smoked the entire town out, she kicked over and no issues since.(Or you can try putting a propane torch to the electrodes and gap,reinstall while hot-the hotter the better.) Also, a new oxygen sensor, if not already replaced wont do any harm. Advance auto has a single wire, unheated bosch o2 sensor for $17.99.(atleast here in WI, should be the same all over.)The application would be under a 1984 mustang with a 5.0 liter engine-i have the part number if you need it.It will work for 1985 to like 1987 before they installed OBD -Any later models will set off the check engine light.) Just tape off the heater connector for sensor on the vehicle side, and splice the black signal wire to sensor.Do not cut any engine harnesses though, just incase you want to convert back to the OE heated sensor. Or you can get a heated one,(same application ford mustang 5.0 1986-i could get you that part number if youd like- Cut the connector off, and splice into the volvo sensor original wires.) I replaced mine, and my volvo is much better than it has been in awhile. Just a few tips from experience. Hope this helps you a bit. anything more, feel free to ask:) best of luck
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
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renarddumarais, welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
This problem is often caused by a tired electrical portion of the ignition switch. Over the years the contacts wear away.
Bill.
This problem is often caused by a tired electrical portion of the ignition switch. Over the years the contacts wear away.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
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Kmaniac in California USA
- Posts: 301
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I would agree with Bill that this is an ignition switch problem.
The coolant sensor mentioned above does not "superflood" the engine. This sensor, when it senses coolant temperatures below 40 F, tells the ignition computer to advance the ignition timing until the coolant warms up. It does not tell the fuel computer to richen the mixture.volvoman1980 wrote:Hey,
One thing you may want to check is the coolant temp. sensor.(Located under port 3 of the intake manifold.) If it's bad it will register minus a zillion degrees, and superflood the engine.
Chris the "K MANIAC"
1986 740 GLE
(5) 1964 Chrysler 300-K's
1986 740 GLE
(5) 1964 Chrysler 300-K's
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
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- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
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To close this topic this is a PM I received from renarddumarais:
Bill.BillofDurham: This is renarddumarais. You answered my post back on Jan 19 about Ole Blue the '85 740 gle wagon that had delayed starting when the temps went down to 40 degrees F and below. You said I needed a new ignition switch. I have replaced the ignition. A few mornings ago the temp was below freezing, 30 or 31 degrees F or so. I turned the ignition, all the idiot lights lit immediately, and Blue fired to life. "Glory Be," I exclaimed or something to that effect!! It was a bitch changing out that...not as easy as the few lines on the subject my Haynes manual offered... Thanks, merci beacoup for pointing me in the right direction... I was sure it had to be a sticking relay... Take care...
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
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