XeMODeX ETM validation is POSITIVE (With LIFETIME Warranty)

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 28 Jan 2009, 19:57

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 12&t=18192

Checksix · Post by **Checksix** » 28 Jan 2009, 22:28

I found this a while back and saved it for my future use. I think it came from Howard's Volvo which might be a 01 V70? You might check his sight to verify.

Jerry

Post by **DonWillson** » 28 Jan 2009, 22:30

I looked at the previous link that calls for removal of the intake manifold. On the transverse 5-cylinder turbo we were able to get to the ETM by:
Disconnect the + lead from the battery and secure it so it cannot spring back to the battery.
Remove the intercooler to ETM air duct.
Remove the air pipe from the fresh air to the computer (passenger side adjacent to the fender.)
Remove the relays that connect to the fan and lay them back over the engine, it is not necessary to unplug the relays.
Undo 2 Torq (#25) screws that hold the plastic shield on top of the fan.
Remove 2 metric bolts that hold the fan in place.
Lift out the fan and shroud. (When reinstalling be sure the two projections on the bottom go into the cross brace under the shroud.)
Unplug the cable from the ETM to the harness.
If the cable is behind the starter loosen the starter until you can work the cable out from behind it. DO NOT CUT THE CABLE. If you have a yellow label ETM it means the previous cable was cut and the new one was not put behind the starter. This is sufficient. Secure the cable with one of the cable ties.
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the ETM on. These are about 4 inches long and are reached from under the ETM.

Reinstalling:
Grease the connector with the contact grease in the box with the new ETM.
Place the gasket on the ETM (It might be well to secure this with 2 drops of instant glue to hold the gasket in place while installing it so it does not move.
Reinstall the 4 bolts.
Continue with the installation in the opposite order as shown above.
Reconnect the battery.
Go.
You will need to recode the radio, the code number should be in some of the glove compartment papers. If not stop by your dealer with some paper work that has the VIN # and they can look it up.

decker · Post by **decker** » 28 Jan 2009, 23:52

DonWillson wrote:I looked at the previous link that calls for removal of the intake manifold. On the transverse 5-cylinder turbo we were able to get to the ETM by:
Disconnect the + lead from the battery and secure it so it cannot spring back to the battery.
Remove the intercooler to ETM air duct.
Remove the air pipe from the fresh air to the computer (passenger side adjacent to the fender.)
Remove the relays that connect to the fan and lay them back over the engine, it is not necessary to unplug the relays.
Undo 2 Torq (#25) screws that hold the plastic shield on top of the fan.
Remove 2 metric bolts that hold the fan in place.
Lift out the fan and shroud. (When reinstalling be sure the two projections on the bottom go into the cross brace under the shroud.)
Unplug the cable from the ETM to the harness.
If the cable is behind the starter loosen the starter until you can work the cable out from behind it. DO NOT CUT THE CABLE. If you have a yellow label ETM it means the previous cable was cut and the new one was not put behind the starter. This is sufficient. Secure the cable with one of the cable ties.
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the ETM on. These are about 4 inches long and are reached from under the ETM.

Reinstalling:
Grease the connector with the contact grease in the box with the new ETM.
Place the gasket on the ETM (It might be well to secure this with 2 drops of instant glue to hold the gasket in place while installing it so it does not move.
Reinstall the 4 bolts.
Continue with the installation in the opposite order as shown above.
Reconnect the battery.
Go.
You will need to recode the radio, the code number should be in some of the glove compartment papers. If not stop by your dealer with some paper work that has the VIN # and they can look it up.

I went out and started tinkering around 10:30

So far I've managed to break one of the clips that holds the gray sensor on the intake tube (my fault with a slip of a screwdriver), the small rubber hose (pcv?) that goes on to the intake tube fitting is stuck on and won't come off (any suggestions?)... I was barely able to loosen the clamp on the tube to the ETM as there is little to no room due to the fan & shroud being in the way... I got the socket stuck on the clamps nut once it loosened and the ratchet came off of it... I couldn't see squat and had to feel around for a long time... scraped the heck out of my hand... couldn't get the tube to pop off of the ETM

(does the clamp have to come all the way off? I tried pulling down on it but it doesn't seem to budge) and started looking at how to get the fan and shroud the heck out of my way so I could actually work in this tight area. Got kinda' p.o.'d and cursed the idiot that "green lighted" the ETM in the first place... then I cursed all of these items and the moron that placed them where they aren't easily visible or accessible from above and decided to throw in the towel for the evening... and here we are... at 12:30 reading your post... but now I need to go to sleep.

FWIW... I'm not unskilled... I'm just a bit frustrated and cold... and it just started snowing.

BTW... when you say the cable was cut in regards to the yellow tagged unit... you do mean the "original" cable from the white tag labeled unit was cut and they hopefully rerouted the new cable around the starter... right?

Gotta go to bed now... angry

Post by **DonWillson** » 29 Jan 2009, 09:58

The original from the factory had the cable routed behind the starter, at least on the 5-cylinder turbo. As an expedient measure most mechanics just cut the cable to get the ETM out. The when they put the new one in, as distinguished by the yellow label, they again did not remove the starter but just plugged the cable in and tied it to something with the cable tie.

BTW... when you say the cable was cut in regards to the yellow tagged unit... you do mean the "original" cable from the white tag labeled unit was cut and they hopefully rerouted the new cable around the starter... right?

Gotta go to bed now... angry[/quote]

decker · Post by **decker** » 29 Jan 2009, 14:54

decker wrote:
DonWillson wrote:I looked at the previous link that calls for removal of the intake manifold. On the transverse 5-cylinder turbo we were able to get to the ETM by:
Disconnect the + lead from the battery and secure it so it cannot spring back to the battery.
Remove the intercooler to ETM air duct.
Remove the air pipe from the fresh air to the computer (passenger side adjacent to the fender.)
Remove the relays that connect to the fan and lay them back over the engine, it is not necessary to unplug the relays.
Undo 2 Torq (#25) screws that hold the plastic shield on top of the fan.
Remove 2 metric bolts that hold the fan in place.
Lift out the fan and shroud. (When reinstalling be sure the two projections on the bottom go into the cross brace under the shroud.)
Unplug the cable from the ETM to the harness.
If the cable is behind the starter loosen the starter until you can work the cable out from behind it. DO NOT CUT THE CABLE. If you have a yellow label ETM it means the previous cable was cut and the new one was not put behind the starter. This is sufficient. Secure the cable with one of the cable ties.
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the ETM on. These are about 4 inches long and are reached from under the ETM.

Reinstalling:
Grease the connector with the contact grease in the box with the new ETM.
Place the gasket on the ETM (It might be well to secure this with 2 drops of instant glue to hold the gasket in place while installing it so it does not move.
Reinstall the 4 bolts.
Continue with the installation in the opposite order as shown above.
Reconnect the battery.
Go.
You will need to recode the radio, the code number should be in some of the glove compartment papers. If not stop by your dealer with some paper work that has the VIN # and they can look it up.
I went out and started tinkering around 10:30 So far I've managed to break one of the clips that holds the gray sensor on the intake tube (my fault with a slip of a screwdriver), the small rubber hose (pcv?) that goes on to the intake tube fitting is stuck on and won't come off (any suggestions?)... I was barely able to loosen the clamp on the tube to the ETM as there is little to no room due to the fan & shroud being in the way... I got the socket stuck on the clamps nut once it loosened and the ratchet came off of it... I couldn't see squat and had to feel around for a long time... scraped the heck out of my hand... couldn't get the tube to pop off of the ETM (does the clamp have to come all the way off? I tried pulling down on it but it doesn't seem to budge) and started looking at how to get the fan and shroud the heck out of my way so I could actually work in this tight area. Got kinda' p.o.'d and cursed the idiot that "green lighted" the ETM in the first place... then I cursed all of these items and the moron that placed them where they aren't easily visible or accessible from above and decided to throw in the towel for the evening... and here we are... at 12:30 reading your post... but now I need to go to sleep.

FWIW... I'm not unskilled... I'm just a bit frustrated and cold... and it just started snowing.

BTW... when you say the cable was cut in regards to the yellow tagged unit... you do mean the "original" cable from the white tag labeled unit was cut and they hopefully rerouted the new cable around the starter... right?

Gotta go to bed now... angry

O.K.

I cleared my head and started fresh today... this morning I spoke with Steve from Philly (another ETM victim) who's updated unit "should" be landing today (he will eventually post his findings about transferability between other cars) and with Chris from XeMODeX. I decided to bail on doing this project at home and put everything back together I had undone (which wasn't really much at all) in my poorly lit and cold garage and brought it down here to the shop so I had all of the tools I'd ever need, so I could put it up on the lift... be warm... and take a good look around the rest of the car, find out everything I wanted to know in relation to the ETM and their locations from below and take my time... and now I have the ETM out and sitting next to me waiting to be shipped out tomorrow... HOORAY!!!

Don is correct... unplugging all of the connectors and removing the fan/shroud assembly will make you a far happier, less cut up and knuckle scraped person. Once I took out the fan/shroud I was able to get at everything with ease. You can actually use a ratchet the way it was intended to be used rather than one or two clicks at a time. I did loosen the clamp on the delivery pipe to the ETM last night and I didn't tighten it back up super snug which made getting the tube out of the way to remove the fan/shroud much easier... but I now have a hand that looks like I stuck it into a meat grinder from that little adventure... I'll be turning the clamp at a better angle during reassembly to make it easier to get on & off in the future.

I'll be sending this "yellow labeled" unit out to Chris for updating tomorrow via USPS... fingers crossed... wallet emptier...

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 30 Jan 2009, 01:21

And now information from another site (same Decker- thanks, guy!):

decker wrote: ... Chris from XeMODeX Inc. said this morning that their ETM's now carry a LIFETIME warranty... so as long as they are in business... :wub:

I suggested he update the website so folks will know.

I've added this bit of information in the title so others will know.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 30 Jan 2009, 09:33

The XeMODex rebuild is starting to take hold. We now have verification from those who have spent the money and had this done with good results. If you can access VolvoSpeed, then read this thread: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... pic=111285 If you don't have access to V.S., the same guy posted on S.S. here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=112555

scott3308 · Post by **scott3308** » 30 Jan 2009, 12:30

Hi Folks,

I had the ETM from my 1999 V70R rebuilt by XeMODex.
They replaced the swiper and contact strip with a non-contacting Digital Angle Sensor.
I have only good things to say about their product and customer service.
The cost for my rebuild was 498.00 (USD), and I got a lifetime warranty.
I installed the ETM yesterday, it works great!

My ETM had been replaced by the previous owner of the car when it had 65,000 miles.
It now has 120,000 miles, and from the looks of the strip, it was going to fail pretty soon.

Their website: http://www.xemodex.com/

Thanks,

Bill

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 30 Jan 2009, 12:58

Thanks for posting Bill...I hope you stick around here- we're all about giving the DIY'er a chance so they won't have to use the dealer

XeMODeX ETM validation is POSITIVE (With LIFETIME Warranty)

Re: XeMODeX ETM validation is POSITIVE