Install Keyless Entry

kaddo · Post by **kaddo** » 11 Feb 2009, 16:52

Me again.
I recently bought a remote Start/Alarm/Keyless Entry unit.
Not caring much about the first two, I intent to only wire it for the keyless feature and hope it'll save me aggravation when below freezing.
This car has Central Locking system and is controlled by a switch on the dashboard.
It's where I intent to connect my two wires carrying the Lock and Unlock pulses coming from the unit.
That will considerably simplify my work, I think.
But how do I get to those contacts behind it? Can that switch be pulled straight out, as in some other cars?
Also, once this car is already equipped with Central Locking system, would have relays?
I'm asking this because the unit requires two relays and which are not included. Do I really need to procure them?
Your suggestions will be much appreciated.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 11 Feb 2009, 19:19

The aftermarket systems are just pure hell on the wiring harness and, in my experience lead to other problems down the road.

Here is the gob O crap I pulled out of my son's car:

: alarm.jpg (81.33 KiB) Viewed 8624 times

My son's starter croaked and it took one of the aftermarket relays out with it which was a bearcat to trace down until I saw the aftermarket junk under his dash. In the meantime the car would not start and I had to drag it home

If you have not already bought the system just cruise eBay for a few weeks and you can buy the entire OEM remote system that is plug and play.

I think I paid $35.00 for the one I bought for my son along with a remote and it came with door locks, a key, and the ignition switch which I was able to send for free - along with the ignition switch lock and key to help out a guy that was trying to fix a car up for his mother.

...Lee

kaddo · Post by **kaddo** » 12 Feb 2009, 08:34

Ozark Lee wrote:The aftermarket systems are just pure hell on the wiring harness and, in my experience lead to other problems down the road.

Thanks for the warning, Ozark Lee.
I checked Ebay, the only OEM units available are add-on remote starters for cars already equipped with a keyless entry and alarm system. My case is the opposite, got nothing remote on it and I only want the keyless function, if possible.
I'm going to just make a test before something more permanent, but need to know first how to reach those contacts of my central locking switch. How is it mounted in the dashboard, do you know?
...Lee

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Feb 2009, 09:26

The unlock wire is Green/Red, the lock wire is Blue/Pink. Common is ground which is the Black wire.

...Lee

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 12 Feb 2009, 12:59

kaddo wrote: I checked Ebay, the only OEM units available are add-on remote starters for cars already equipped with a keyless entry and alarm system.

? OEM?
I didn't know that Volvo made ANY remote start systems.
I'd have to go with Lee on this one. If you just want keyless, Stock is Good!
Someone over at VS may have a spare...?

Post by **tjts1** » 13 Feb 2009, 13:34

kaddo wrote:Me again.
I recently bought a remote Start/Alarm/Keyless Entry unit.
Not caring much about the first two, I intent to only wire it for the keyless feature and hope it'll save me aggravation when below freezing.
This car has Central Locking system and is controlled by a switch on the dashboard.
It's where I intent to connect my two wires carrying the Lock and Unlock pulses coming from the unit.
That will considerably simplify my work, I think.
But how do I get to those contacts behind it? Can that switch be pulled straight out, as in some other cars?
Also, once this car is already equipped with Central Locking system, would have relays?
I'm asking this because the unit requires two relays and which are not included. Do I really need to procure them?
Your suggestions will be much appreciated.

This is very similar to how I setup my $25 keyless entry system. The system has just 4 wires. Lock, unlock, 12v+ and GND. I pulled out the Lock/unlock switch and headlight switch out of the dash. I got the 12v+ from the headlight switch spliced the other 2 wires to the lock switch. The ground was connected to the steering column. Its dead simple, reliable and works from a much longer distance than any factory kit I've seen. I picked up 4 kits for 4 cars and with shipping it came out to $27.50 each. They are all working perfectly.
This is the kit I used. Lots of online vendors carry it so shop around for the best deal.
http://www.expressionsofstyle.com/rec-43t.html
And a nice writeup on the installation into a BMW.
http://zoso.no-ip.org/318i-ke.html
After market is good.

kaddo · Post by **kaddo** » 13 Feb 2009, 16:29

tjts1 wrote: This is very similar to how I setup my $25 keyless entry system. The system has just 4 wires. Lock, unlock, 12v+ and GND. I pulled out the Lock/unlock switch and headlight switch out of the dash. I got the 12v+ from the headlight switch spliced the other 2 wires to the lock switch. The ground was connected to the steering column. Its dead simple, reliable and works from a much longer distance than any factory kit I've seen. I picked up 4 kits for 4 cars and with shipping it came out to $27.50 each. They are all working perfectly.
This is the kit I used. Lots of online vendors carry it so shop around for the best deal.
http://www.expressionsofstyle.com/rec-43t.html
And a nice writeup on the installation into a BMW.
http://zoso.no-ip.org/318i-ke.html
After market is good.

Great hints, tjts1!
You just confirmed it's possible to connect the system to an existing switch, something I really needed to know before
starting to mess around with zillion wires under my dashboard.
The info provided on both links is also valuable. As I already have the unit, will only connect it's Keyless circuit.
I've located those 4 wires and made a bench test, it works as expected with a lightbulb.
But I'm thinking that the current drawn to lock/unloch 4 doors + trunk may be greater than a bulb and relays will be required.
By looking at the schematic, I can see the car's got its own relays, but that's not always a sure bet.
Did you have to install relays on yours?

Post by **tjts1** » 14 Feb 2009, 00:03

You won't have to do anything with relays. The car already has a built in relay for the power locks which is triggered by the swith in the dash. All we're doing here is overriding the swith.
Good luck
Justin

kaddo · Post by **kaddo** » 14 Feb 2009, 05:24

tjts1 wrote:You won't have to do anything with relays. The car already has a built in relay for the power locks which is triggered by the swith in the dash. All we're doing here is overriding the swith.
Good luck
Justin

Much appreciated, Justin.
I asked that because my unit came with instructions calling for 2 (optional) relays.
Probably there are cases when the switch does control the solenoids directly.

kaddo · Post by **kaddo** » 14 Feb 2009, 09:10

tjts1 wrote:You won't have to do anything with relays.

A twist:
While doing the bench test, I realised my unit has its lock/unlock circuit closing in relationship
to +12V, not negative (like on those old Brittish cars).
Also, checking the Volvo schematic, I could see semiconductors as part of the Central Locking system.
Wouldn't that be the reason for additional relays being mentioned by the unit's manufacturer?