95 GLT N/A Timing belt...

Craigd2599 · Post by **Craigd2599** » 23 Feb 2009, 05:47

OKay, I know I can find the intstruction here but I want OPINIONS...have any of you guys done it and do you think it's a praticularly hard job. I am a decent amateur mechanic. Do they make a tool to keep the cams in place while you are changing the belts? (I envisioned something that bolts to both pulleys and locks them down so they don't move while you change the belt. Mine was done 57K miles ago and I want to go ahead and do it this spring while I am doing the PCV / cam seals and a few other items. Any of you guys have a happy ending doing the T-belt yourself?

Bag · Post by **Bag** » 23 Feb 2009, 06:29

I have not yet had the pleasure of doing a T-belt on one of these cars but I do know that IPD sells a cam locking tool for about $25. I've heard that some people don't like this device but having not used it myself, maybe someone else can chime in on that.

I would consider myself a competent shade-tree mechanic and would say that with the helpful write-ups on this and other forums I would not hesitate to attempt the job myself.

The only other suggestion I would have is to not do too many vital repairs at one time. That way if something does go wrong it is easier to pin point what is wrong. I just like to make sure everything works between repairs.

Good luck

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 23 Feb 2009, 06:30

I've done three of them. Two of them were the "major" change that included the rollers and the water pump. It isn't that bad of a job once you figure out a couple of tool issues. If you are changing the tensioner roller you will find that there is insufficient clearance to get a ratchet and a torx bit onto the bolt. A torx with a hex shaft and a wrench will do the job. The belt is a pain to get threaded off around the crankshaft, it saves a lot of time if you just cut the old belt and pull it off from the top.

I don't even bother with the cam locker tool. It takes quite a bit of force to turn the cams.

If your front cam seals aren't leaking I would leave them alone. The front exhaust cam seal is a royal pain since the strut tower is smack dab in the way.

...Lee

Post by **wheelsup** » 23 Feb 2009, 07:32

Harbor Freight sells a 3 torx set that has a T40, T45, and I think T50 in it. They are all one piece and look like this;

It costs $3 and is well worth it. You can use a 3/8" ratchet on that one, I've now successfully taken off my roller a few times in about 30 secs. If you have the T45 that looks like this:

you can't use a 3/8" ratchet on it and you have to use a box wrench around the torx collar. PITA doesn't describe it, especially if it hasn't ever been replaced (mine was original on a 14 year old car...which spent the majority of time in NH). Took me hours, and then I had a bum tensioner roller so I ended up putting it on and off 3 times using that method. Never again!!!

I hear Sears carries a T45 that fits a 1/4" ratchet that would probably work too, but I have yet to try it.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 23 Feb 2009, 14:29

I helped a friend do a '93 850 N/A with the IPD Cam locking tool- it worked out very well. You have to line everything up perfectly or it won't slide in between the gears- another way to check that things are lined up!