94 850 AC Job - Some advice needed...

Mike-Halewai · Post by **Mike-Halewai** » 25 Feb 2009, 17:35

I'm in the midst of ordering all the parts I will need to re-n-re my A/C evaporator.

In another thread, I've heard that along with the Evaporator, I will replace the receiver/drier.

If I understand it right I also need PAG oil.

Over at FCPGroton I've priced as follows:
1. Evaporator - 128.68 (us)
2. Drier Receiver - $45(us)
FCP doesn't list PAG oil or any O-Rings etc.

The total cost for the above parts (for me in Canada) are:
$273.42 (Including the exchange and tax at the border, as well as shipping)

I just got off the phone with a really good Volvo dealer in town, and they are quoting an "evaporator-KIT" which includes the receiver/drier as well as all O-rings needed, etc.

The cost for this is $704.48 - Plus they quoted $43.95 for PAG oil and $116 for Volvo's anti corrosive, deodorizer.

Pretty much $850.

A long question short, should I worry that I will be losing enough quality in aftermarket parts, that it would warrant spending $400 - $550 extra dollars?

And is there anywhere else that I should check out for good pricing and quality parts? Thanks for any help.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 25 Feb 2009, 17:55

I just picked the parts up at a local auto parts store, I think they were Murray brand but they have worked fine. One of the most important things is to get is a cabin air filter and its adapter. What kills the evaporators in the first place is the crap off of trees getting lodged into the fins and holding the moisture.

The evaporator and the accumulator both came with the required O rings.

...Lee

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 25 Feb 2009, 20:37

There are three kinds of PAG Oil (46, 100 and 150)...the oil is mainly for the compressor that is used and there are two kinds of these in our Volvo's... If you have a Zexel DKS, it uses PAG 46. Lee posted this reference on another site in case you have a different one: http://www.aa1car.com/library/pagoil.htm

Mike-Halewai · Post by **Mike-Halewai** » 25 Feb 2009, 23:23

Shall I assume that the compressor is labeled/indicates which model it is?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 26 Feb 2009, 04:40

It is...there's also a list in VADIS as to how much oil goes in each component- later today I can post that information if it is needed.

Mike-Halewai · Post by **Mike-Halewai** » 26 Feb 2009, 18:29

Hey MIJ, or whoever is able to answer...

I have been asked several times if I am sure that the evaporator has never been changed, etc. IE: Am is sure that there isn't a more "simple" issue with the A/C system, or at least a different issue in general.

My question is: Is there a simple way to go about figuring out if the rest of the system is working correctly? Or should this be something that I should take it to a shop to have inspected, etc?

For instance my car has been using a cabin filter since 96 (two years after purchase), therefore I'm told this could mean that the evap. could still been in properly working condition. Or perhaps the system has already been overhauled at some other point in its lifetime?

Any advice is helpful here.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 26 Feb 2009, 18:44

Put gas in it with the dye and see if you get the dye coming out from somewhere- if you still lose gas and you don't see the dye, then it's most likely the evaporator. It's just in such a difficult place to see the dye, whereas anywhere else it might leak, you can see it.

Mike-Halewai · Post by **Mike-Halewai** » 26 Feb 2009, 19:06

The engine bay is littered with decals indicating that it was already filled with dye-filled gas, to be seen under UV light. I can get my hands on a UV light.. will I be able to see this if the evap is the issue?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 26 Feb 2009, 19:23

The engine bay is littered with decals indicating that it was already filled with dye-filled gas, to be seen under UV light. I can get my hands on a UV light.. will I be able to see this if the evap is the issue?

Yes, but it takes some work. If you remove the blower motor you can see the evap coil, if it is leaking there should be evidence there. I would start with the easier stuff like the accumulator itself. I replaced my son's evaporator only to find a hole in the accumulator that was the root cause of the problem. Oh well, at least I fixed his dash mounts in the process.

...Lee

JFO · Post by **JFO** » 26 Feb 2009, 22:19

Mike,
I went through the same exercise...had the shop pressure test and confirm there was a leak. They filled it with nitrogen/dye and after a few days I went back to check the pressure...down to less than 10 so definitely a leak. No sign of leaks with the UV in the engine bay and nothing conclusive showing through the resistor hole. I went ahead and did the evaporator. When I got it out, the only sign of a leak was a very small amount of green spotting on the bottom of the evap....no corrosion at all and it looked like new. The car came with a cabin filter. It's been good now since last summer. Now, I also changed the receiver/ dryer as preventive measure. I assumed the shop checked around the old one for signs of dye also. It was a trained tech who did the test. Could it have been a small leak in the receiver that went undetected? Possibly I guess, but without a conclusive sign, you don't really know.
So, bottom line...if there is no sign of a leak anywhere else , it's likely the evaporator.

Cheers
Jim