replacing radiator
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gyrene
- Posts: 62
- Joined: 9 July 2007
- Year and Model: 91 940 SE 93 850 GLT
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
replacing radiator
Does anyone have a diagram showing how to replace a radiator in a 93 850 non-turbo. It looks difficult but I need to do this myself. Please list any special tools needed or precautions and parts that can be reused and clamps and such that need to be ordered for replacement. Thanks in advance for your help.
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MadeInJapan
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 13434
- Joined: 31 March 2005
- Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
- Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
- Has thanked: 17 times
- Been thanked: 35 times
Not hard- if I were there in Lebanon, I would help you with this- at least w/ your car, you don't have an intercooler attached, which makes it much much easier. Main thing is you have to take out the fan and fan shroud in one piece- only a few bolts (make sure and disconnect the electrical connector to it) then it all just drops down the bottom- make sure your car is on ramps or you won't have the room... and make sure you clear your A/C condenser as it comes down. I usually use a floor jack under the radiator as I get the load off of the bolts on the side. Here is a more thorough explanation: I like PDF files because you can adjust the size of them to see the diagrams, but this may actually help you more (note that you can ignore all the info about dealing with the turbo/ intercooler): http://volvospeed.com/Repair/Radiator850turbo.php
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
I just did this on a V70 so it's fresh in my mind. The volvospeed thread MIJ listed is good. Just a few other details. I drilled holes in the plastic pieces that cover the bolts that hold the radiator to the AC cooler, in order to get a small socket extension to them. I recommend spraying a lot of WD40 or something like that to loosen the threads on the main bolts that support the radiator on either side. I broke loose the nut ends of these on the frame that these go into, and it took me a lot of work to get the bolts out after that. I drove my car up on ramps to get the height to take the rad out. Also if you have trans ffluid and/or oil cooler lines going into the side of the rad, check those and you may want to order replacements for the connectors. I had to replace one of the oil cooler lines and that is a PITA; another story. It's a good time to drain and replace the trans oil too. I would replace the upper and lower water hoses unless they are relatively new. I got my OEM radiator from Darryl Waltrip Volvo at about the same price as other places sold aftermarket radiators.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
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2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
All of the other directions are very good. If I had to do it again, I'd do it in this order:
0. Drain the coolant.
1. Get some large zip ties and use them to tie the condensor lines to the underside of the bumper. This will support the condensor.
2. Remove the fan (4 bolts).
3. Detach the tran oil cooler lines from the radiator. Be sure to label which one was on top.
4. Unbolt the radiator from the car (2 bolts). The two bolts holding it to the car are located on the sides about halfway up. The radiator / condensor will now be held up with the zip ties.
5. Unbolt the condensor from the radiator (4 bolts). There are 4 bolts, one at each corner for this. Unbolt the top two bolts first. The reason why I think you should do this step last is that with the condensor supported by the zip ties, you can tilt the radiator enough to get a socket on the top bolts. That should let you avoid drilling holes in your car. This worked on my car (a 98), I'm not sure if it would work on yours.
Don't fear the radiator install. It should only take an afternoon. This might also be a good time to replace the hoses. You'll need a 7 mm socket to get the hose clamps off.
Other special tools: A pair of snap-ring pliers to get the transmission oil cooler hoses off. Order new o-rings for these lines.
0. Drain the coolant.
1. Get some large zip ties and use them to tie the condensor lines to the underside of the bumper. This will support the condensor.
2. Remove the fan (4 bolts).
3. Detach the tran oil cooler lines from the radiator. Be sure to label which one was on top.
4. Unbolt the radiator from the car (2 bolts). The two bolts holding it to the car are located on the sides about halfway up. The radiator / condensor will now be held up with the zip ties.
5. Unbolt the condensor from the radiator (4 bolts). There are 4 bolts, one at each corner for this. Unbolt the top two bolts first. The reason why I think you should do this step last is that with the condensor supported by the zip ties, you can tilt the radiator enough to get a socket on the top bolts. That should let you avoid drilling holes in your car. This worked on my car (a 98), I'm not sure if it would work on yours.
Don't fear the radiator install. It should only take an afternoon. This might also be a good time to replace the hoses. You'll need a 7 mm socket to get the hose clamps off.
Other special tools: A pair of snap-ring pliers to get the transmission oil cooler hoses off. Order new o-rings for these lines.
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