2001 S40 Stalling

RonD · Post by **RonD** » 19 May 2008, 14:33

My daughter has a 2001 S40 Turbo, which has a tendency to stall when stopped. At first, the lights around the radio would flash and the car would stall. Took it to a dealer and the only thing they could come up with was to replace the IAC valve. This didn't solve the problem. Now it stalls when the air conditioning is on and the car is at a stop. Sometimes the car starts to stutter and then the ignition picks up and the car starts to go forward (good thing I had a firm hold on the brake. Other times it just shuts off. Recently the check engine light came on. A code reader indicated P0101, MAF or VAF. I haven't cleaned or replaced the MAF but now the check engine light doesn't come on (it stopped coming on on before I used a code reader) but it still stalls.

Any suggestions?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 19 May 2008, 18:24

Do you know anyone with the same car? If so, try their MAF...if this solves the problem then replace it...I suspect the MAF sensor. You can try cleaning it with MAF cleaner from your auto parts store...read directions and follow them carefully!
MIJ

RonD · Post by **RonD** » 23 May 2008, 14:11

I changed the MAF sensor and the car still stalls. Next step is to have a Volvo Technical Rep look at it.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 23 May 2008, 15:37

Please let us know what they find.

RonD · Post by **RonD** » 20 Jan 2009, 13:36

Turns out it was the battery cables. They were finally able to duplicate the stalling and saw that there was a drop in current between the battery and the fuse box. Replaced both the positive and negative.

Post by **matthew1** » 20 Jan 2009, 14:58

Thanks for closing the loop on this, Ron.

sghokie · Post by **sghokie** » 11 May 2009, 07:39

I am having the same sort of problem.

Previously I had a bad FPR and IACV, replacing them fixed the problems, but now I think I have an electrical issue.

Shortly after my most recent no start condition the clock and trip odometer both reset on their own.

I am looking at replacing the cables based on this post, it seems that the negative side is pretty straight forward, but the positive side seems a bit more challenging.

Anyone have any advice on this problem?