S80 T6 2002 Strange sounds under gear shift

seansdad · Post by **seansdad** » 23 May 2009, 08:20

I am trying to diagnose some strange sounds that seem to be coming from under the gear shift area. They sound like a popping or grinding sound and happen while driving and while sitting at idle. They seem to be worse and louder after coming to a stop after driving. Temp does not seem to matter. It almost sounds like a bad bearing, but I can not figure out what is still moving after the car is stopped. It will do it in drive or neutral. It seems to get worse when giving it gas and then letting off. Could it be exhaust related?

I also need to find out how much movement should be allowed on my upper engine mount. Currently the mount can bang the rail when shifting between forward and reverse with a littl gas while keeping brakes engaged.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 23 May 2009, 09:40

The turbochargers are just forward of the firewall in the center of the car. Maybe that's what you're hearing. They shouldn't be making any noise. How is your oil level? Do you use synthetic? How often do you change it?

I don't understand what you mean about "the mount can bang the rail."

seansdad · Post by **seansdad** » 23 May 2009, 11:21

I have 118k on it and have been using synthetic oil for the last 3 years. Oil level is almost to point of needing a quart, and it is due for an oil change.
On the engine mount, the circular sleve around the rubber center is pulled out of the frame now ( this changed since the last I saw it the other day. My wife drove it since then). The two black metal rails that are bolted to the engine mount stay in position when the engine is torqured, but the round magnisium frame connected to the top of the engine bangs against the end of the black rails. I will send pictures in moment.

seansdad · Post by **seansdad** » 23 May 2009, 11:32

Here are the pictures. What would casue this engine mount to self destruct and shift so bad?

seansdad · Post by **seansdad** » 23 May 2009, 11:35

I downloaded and submitted 3 pics but I do not see them?

: Motor mount 001.jpg (174.85 KiB) Viewed 1423 times

: Motor mount 002.jpg (137.59 KiB) Viewed 1423 times

: Motor mount 003.jpg (186.94 KiB) Viewed 1423 times

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 23 May 2009, 11:38

seansdad wrote:Here are the pictures. What would casue this engine mount to self destruct and shift so bad?

Apparently the pictures didn't upload, but from your description you need a new mount. There are a few ways you could go. You can get just the center bushing part and install it yourself. These are available from a few sources, one being http://www.ipdusa.com, and are usually polyurethane, which increases the stiffness and possibly the vibration you feel through the firewall. Or you can buy a whole brand new mount from fcpgroton, myswedishparts, http://www.tascafordparts.com (also sells Volvo parts), or Darrell Waltrip Volvo and bolt it on if you want the factory feel. It's quit common for these mounts to fail after a while and Volvo redesigned it into a square bushing. Since the engine is flexing more than normal in the engine compartment, it might account for the noises you are hearing.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 23 May 2009, 11:40

seansdad wrote:I downloaded and submitted 3 pics but I do not see them?

Did you use the Browse button, then select the picture from your computer, then click Add the File?

seansdad · Post by **seansdad** » 23 May 2009, 11:48

The pics are on the old post now. What is my best solution? Should I also do the IPD Strut brace mod while I am at it? How will I know if I damaged my lower mounts of trans mount with so much flex on the engine? Do I need to take off the plastic cover under engine and put it on stands to watch the flex?

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 23 May 2009, 12:07

Here are a few options for you:

Old style mount, $45: http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/109

New style mount, $53: http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/110

Polyurethane bushing, $29: http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/109

Polyurethane bushing, $22: http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-S80-1999-20 ... 6-767-234/

You might want to check the lower torque rod as those frequently fail too. It's #13 in this picture: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... atalogid=0

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 23 May 2009, 12:22

seansdad wrote:The pics are on the old post now. What is my best solution? Should I also do the IPD Strut brace mod while I am at it? How will I know if I damaged my lower mounts of trans mount with so much flex on the engine? Do I need to take off the plastic cover under engine and put it on stands to watch the flex?

Well, as in most things, it depends. If you go with urethane you will have a very solid mount. Some people claim the trans shifts better, but others don't like the vibration and go back to factory. I'd say if you want it very solid and likely to not have to ever replace it again, but with the possibility of some additional vibration transmitted to the passenger compartment, go with one of the urethane variants. If you want the stock feel, go with a stock mount.

You could do the IPD strut bar mod, but you will probably get more vibration. Also, I don't know if it would have any deleterious effects on the crash protection of the car. The engine is supposed to go down and under the firewall in the event of a frontal crash and the mounting system may be designed to allow that to happen. If you want to save some cash on the strut bar mod, see my homebrew version here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?p=65965

You could put the car up on stands and inspect it. You need to do that to check the lower torque rod anyway. I wouldn't run the car while you're under there for safety reasons. Just get a friend to push front-to-back on the upper engine mount while you watch from underneath. Make sure you chock the wheels.

The lower torque rod is relatively easy to change. The lower engine mounts are a pain, so I wouldn't do those unless you can establish for certain that they're broken.