1998 S70 GLT 130,000 miles - A few Issues

Post by **demian5** » 22 Jun 2009, 00:06

Hey everyone - I am new to the membership but not to the site. I have fixed a few things on my wife's ride using this excellent information. I have fixed the cruise, the drivers power window switch, timing belt... I however would like some input on a few issues I am having that have me at a crossroad of throwing parts and $$ at it.

1. The passenger side of the dashbord went from a consistent squeak to a louder and less occuring creak and snap after I tightened the 4 bolts under the cowl and pushed down on the dash and tightened the ones on the A-Pillar - Any Ideas? I was thinking maybe I should push the dash up and tighten the A-Pillar ones again so it isn't "pulling" on the top ones.

2. I have replaced the upper mount with a Blue IPD urethane and the right side (front) Mount as it was metal-to-metal. However I still have a vibration when I put the car in gear the same as before I changed anything. Also I can feel an occillation in the steering wheel. I am wondering if I need to replace the lower strut mount and the front and rear mounts? Also, is there an actual transmission mount on the driver side of the engine compartment?

3. I get a groan sound from the rear brakes when applying once in a while. The rear and front pads are at least 70% remaining. (But Volvo brakes always make some kind of nose right?)

4. The good old ABS/Tracs light. Now, I am pretty confident in my mechanical skills, but how hard is it really to cut the ABS module open and re-solder the connections? I have done this type of thing on switches and other non-sealed components on many cars, however for some reason I am apprehensive to do this to my ABS module. Any input?

5. Has anyone ever adjusted thier shift interlock cable so you don't have to push the shifter and make sure it clicks before the key will rotate to lock and come out?

Thats it for now and thank you in advance for your help. I have my own Mitchell On-Demand system so if I can help anyone out in any way, please ask.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 Jun 2009, 01:53

1

It is a big job but it can be done by a mortal:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=15115

2

Also, is there an actual transmission mount on the driver side of the engine compartment?

Yes it kinda looks like a belt buckle and it goes from the transmission to the subframe. It is not terribly expensive and quite easy to replace but when I changed the mount on the '94 the vibrations got worse rather than better for the first 2,00 miles or so.

3

Your rotors may be beginning to warp. At the end of the day they all warp and I wind up changing stock rotors every other set of pads. The cheapo drilled rotors that I picked up on ebay have helped thus far with the warping problems. They were nothing more than Raybestos rotors that were drilled. They look kinda cool as well if you have alloy wheels.

4

The module is shot. You can try to fix it yourself or send it off to Victor or module masters. There are two kinds of Volvo ABS modules, those that have failed and those that are going to fail. After the rebuild, no matter how you do it, they should last for the rest of the life of the car.

5

That is usually a problem with the microswitch on an 850, I'm not sure what is different on a 98 70 series. Check out this thread and see if it matches your problem.

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/Microswitch.php

...Lee

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 22 Jun 2009, 11:27

Regarding the dash squeaks

.............

Being a big fan of the bread clip fix for the AC clutch gap

, I have tried several quick, inexpensive alternatives to the complicated, lengthy procedure for removing and replacing the dash.

Try this for a temporary (or maybe even more than temporary) solution. Purchase door stops (97 cents for a package of three small stops at Wal-Mart). Place these in the gap between the top of the dash and the A Pillar, one on each side to function as shims to limit dash movement and vibration. I oriented them lenghwise in the gap with the top of the door stop against the A Pillar and the bottom of the stop against the end of the dash. There is a side window vent hole on each side/end of the upper dash that you can use as a grip to pull the dash away from the windshield and/or A Pillar as needed while you are shoving the door stops into the gap. The first day or two, I periodically jammed them further toward the front of the car as the door stop and the pliant dash material deformed a little bit, especially when the inside of the car heated up in the sun. So far, this has been the quietest and most maintenance free squeak solution that I have tried while I continue to contemplate whether it's worth it to spend two days removing and replacing the dash.

dobriduh · Post by **dobriduh** » 22 Jun 2009, 16:06

If you have time, nerves and knowledge how to do it - it is definitely worth pulling off the dash and fixing the freakin squeak. Mine was driving me crazy but I solved it in a pretty barbaric way.

So, I got the expanding foam and poured it in till the squeak stopped. It was drivin me crazy and this worked for me very well so far.

Post by **demian5** » 22 Jun 2009, 22:11

OK, I just ordered the front and rear motor mounts as well as the rear upper firewall mount for the car from IPD. I also ordered the T-5 Torx to get the ABS module off (as well as a new fuel filter and headlight wiper blades).

I already have a new driver side half-shaft sitting in the box waiting for me to put on because of a torn "inner" CV Boot (WTF?), I figured I will do the mounts, the half-shaft and the fuel filter at the same time. Only mount left after that will be the other torque rod one under the car. So I am hoping my idle vibration issues will be gone!

So here we go...

Any Advice while I am under? I was thinking about draining and refilling the transmission fluid too.

Thanks again guys

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 22 Jun 2009, 23:04

demian5 wrote:Hey everyone - I am new to the membership but not to the site. I have fixed a few things on my wife's ride using this excellent information. I have fixed the cruise, the drivers power window switch, timing belt... I however would like some input on a few issues I am having that have me at a crossroad of throwing parts and $$ at it.

1. The passenger side of the dashbord went from a consistent squeak to a louder and less occuring creak and snap after I tightened the 4 bolts under the cowl and pushed down on the dash and tightened the ones on the A-Pillar - Any Ideas? I was thinking maybe I should push the dash up and tighten the A-Pillar ones again so it isn't "pulling" on the top ones.

I haven't experienced this problem, but I've read a lot about it.
Everything from wedging in matchbooks to fullblown disassembly.
You may want to spend some time on the boards researching.
Since this problem isn't super bad, saving it for later may work out.

2. I have replaced the upper mount with a Blue IPD urethane and the right side (front) Mount as it was metal-to-metal. However I still have a vibration when I put the car in gear the same as before I changed anything. Also I can feel an occillation in the steering wheel. I am wondering if I need to replace the lower strut mount and the front and rear mounts? Also, is there an actual transmission mount on the driver side of the engine compartment?

Front mount, (passenger side) is easiest to feel and easiest to change.
Mine went gradually and a fresh one made a world of difference!

3. I get a groan sound from the rear brakes when applying once in a while. The rear and front pads are at least 70% remaining. (But Volvo brakes always make some kind of nose right?)

These cars have drum type parking brakes hidden away in the rotors
and all manner of merriment goes on in there...Have a look.

4. The good old ABS/Tracs light. Now, I am pretty confident in my mechanical skills, but how hard is it really to cut the ABS module open and re-solder the connections? I have done this type of thing on switches and other non-sealed components on many cars, however for some reason I am apprehensive to do this to my ABS module. Any input?

There are many that have tackled this successfully, but I understand
the cover is a real bear to get off. And I've seen a few DIY's that
looked pretty nasty afterward (cosmetically). No shame in sending it out.
http://home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/

5. Has anyone ever adjusted thier shift interlock cable so you don't have to push the shifter and make sure it clicks before the key will rotate to lock and come out?

It's very easy to get the console off to gain access. I tighted my
interlock cable a few turns with no difficulty. It did help, but what
really made a difference was cleaning the shifter interlock button.
That's a bit more of a chore because the shifter knob has to come off
to get the shift lever assembly apart to get the button all the way out.
Mine was really sticky and wouldn't pop back up if it got pushed.
The whole set up works perfectly now. Well worth it!

Thats it for now and thank you in advance for your help. I have my own Mitchell On-Demand system so if I can help anyone out in any way, please ask.

All of these things are in the fixits here and there's also plenty
of good stuff at Bay 13 over at VolvoSpeed. Good Luck!

Post by **demian5** » 25 Jun 2009, 22:29

So I got my mounts. Now to replace the front and rear should I support the engine, remove the upper nuts and lower bolts on them both and disconnect the right front one at the engine then jack the engine up? I plan on replacing the left halfshaft at the same time (as well as the rear upper strut motor mount). Any tips or things to not break when jacking up?? I was thinking of removing the radiator fan for the front one, but the labor time on each mount is like .7 hrs so it must be a slam dunk. I am a bit nervous about jacking the whole engine from the oil pan as I have heard the pans leak often (don't want to upset the seal).

Also, here is some kind of oil tube apperattus coming out from under the balancer that has oil residue on it like it has been leaking vary slightly. What is that thing and how do i fix it?

Thanks again.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 26 Jun 2009, 06:21

The only jacking you should need is on the timing belt side- still only an inch at most- like you say, you don't want to damage anything. I'm not sure which lines you're talking about that are slightly leaking- are you talking about the two that are at the front of the car? If so, it could be a turbo hose that leaks slightly and makes these two hard lines appear like they are the ones.

bw77 · Post by **bw77** » 26 Jun 2009, 08:19

i just replaced the front motor mount (under the crank pulley) on my 1999 S70GLT with 99K miles. I found that I could not get a socket on the rear 17mm bolt, had to use a flat wrench for that. I had to jack up the motor about 1/2" to put the new mount in. I placed a short piece of 2x4 board between the jack and the oil pan just behind the oil filter to spread the load. I found I could not torque the bolts due to space limits (I have a beam type torque wrench). The Haynes manual warns not to jack the motor more than 1" to avoid damage. Here is a pic of the new and old mounts, showing the wear.

Post by **demian5** » 27 Jun 2009, 16:22

PIN THIS....

Front/Rear Motor Mount Replacement - 2WD Turbo Models (mine was a 1998 S70 GLT)
1. Remove radiator Fan.
2. Remove 15mm top front motor mount nut.
3. Raise and support vehicle on jack stands.
4. Remove passenger front tire and bend back splash shield.
5. Support engine with a floor jack using a 2x4 across front of oil pan to distribute weight.
6. Remove both 14mm bolts attaching right front motor mount to engine.
7. Remove 14mm lower front motor mount bolt.
8. Raise front of engine and remove old/install new motor mount. Lower engine onto new mount.
9. Install but do not tighten 15mm nut and 14mm bolt on motor mount.
10. Install one of the 14mm right front motor mount bolts.
11. Lower engine and reposition jack with wood under transmission/bellhousing.
12. Support engine again and remove 14mm right front motor mount bolt again.
13. Remove 14mm lower rear motor mount bolt (use a wobble headed extension and put it through between the line and the sub-frame).
14. Using a stubby 15mm wrench, place it on the top nut and use a long wrench (such as a 24mm) and put the box end of the large wrench in the open end of the stubby and pull to loosen the nut - remove the nut.
15. Jack the engine up as far as it will go and replace the mount (if you can). If you can't (as I couldn't), go to next step.
16. Remove the lower 14mm motor mount bracket bolt (the one that also attaches the metal heat shield to the mount and bracket).
17. Rotate the bracket out of the way to access the lower 14mm bracket bolt, remove that bolt and the 14mm upper bracket bolt. You will have removed 3 14mm bolts to remove the bracket and heat shield.
18. Remove the bracket, and motor mount together but the heat shield has a harness attached to it that the clips will need to be disconnected before removing.
19. Remove the heat shield.
20. When installing the mount, slightly install the nut on the mount with the heat shield and bracket together and install it in the vehicle.
21. Rotate the shield out of the way again to install the 2 14mm bolts.
22. Attach the harness clips to the shield and rotate the shield to install position.
23. Install the 14mm bolt for the shield and bracket.
24. Lower the engine but not enough to put a load on the mount and install the 14mm lower motor mount bolt.
25. Install the right front motor mount 14mm bolts and tighten. Lower the engine all the way.
26. Tighten the rear mount 15mm top nut using the large wrench method to "push" the stubby wrench. Tighten the lower 14mm bolt.
27. Tighten the front mount 14mm bolt and 15mm nut.
28. Install the radiator fan and components (make sure the hose clamp for the intercooler hose is on top or the relay bracket will be a PITA to install.
29. Hope that no new lights come on!