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Bleeding brake lines - 2002 S60 AWD 190k KMS

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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kdaide
Posts: 76
Joined: 29 June 2007
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Bleeding brake lines - 2002 S60 AWD 190k KMS

Post by kdaide »

I just replaced my rotors and pads and the pedel is not as firm as I'd expect. It has also been a while since the brake fluid was replaced. I've searched this site to see if I could find instructions on how best to bleed the lines and replace the fluid but I was not able to find anything.

Can someone point me to where I can find instructions on how to do this? Can I do it w/o removing the wheels and just using a hydraulic jack? How long should it take?

Also, if I wanted to replace the brake line where it connects to the caliper/piston is this difficult? The car is nearing 8 years old and if I am going to drain the brake fluid, why no do a little preventative maintenance?

Thanks once again for all your help

Kevin

2002 S60 AWD 190K kms
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Kevin

PREGRE01
Posts: 8
Joined: 3 November 2006
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Location: Saint-Laurent QC

Post by PREGRE01 »

You should remove the wheel for this proceedure. With an appropriate container to catch the brake fluid for later disposal, open the right rear bleeder & let gravity do your initial bleed, keep topping up reservoir as the level drops until the fluid running out the bleeder is clear. Close that nipple & repeat this process at the left rear, then right front, then left front. When you have completed the 'gravity bleed' at all four wheel, then it is time to have an assistant sit behind the wheel to 'pump' the pedal. Slow even strokes to the floor, 5 or 6 times to build pressure, after the last push..HOLD the pedal to floor while you crack open the bleeder to allow fluid and any air to escape. Repeat as necessary until only fluid escapes when you open the bleeder (no spitting of air, just a steady stream of brake fluid). When the bleeder is closed your assistant can remover their foot from the pedal. Now you do the same thing at the left rear, then right front, then left front. Always begin the system bleeding at the caliper furthest away from the brake fluid reservoir.
Inquiring Mind

JimLev
Posts: 60
Joined: 2 May 2009
Year and Model: S60, V70, 540BMW
Location: NM

Post by JimLev »

Now that cars have ABS controllers it really doesn't matter which wheel you start bleeding or the order it is done in. All brake cylinders are their own circuits. In the old days before ABS the method you mentioned was the correct way to do it.
This method of pumping the brakes will get most of the old brake fluid out, but not all of the fluid that is in the ABS solenoid block. To get that fluid out of the ABS block you need to actuate these solenoids, either by envoking the ABS to function (like jamming on the brakes and then doing a second bleed) or by having a shop do the bleed with their computer connected to the car to operate the ABS solenoids.
Just manually flushing the system should be good enough, as most of the fluid that has dirt and moisture in it will be in the calipers. I use a pressure bleeder that screws on the top of the master cylinder, which forces the old fluid out and replaces it with new fluid.

FCPEURO
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Post by FCPEURO »

Great write up! Bleeding the brake lines sounds much more complicated then it really is.

From experience I can tell you it's best to have extra capacity for the old fluid then you think you will need... so a lot doesn't end up all on the driveway / garage floor. :oops: .

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