no one told me!

mmgibson · Post by **mmgibson** » 02 Jul 2009, 09:02

Parts for lower control arm bushings, and front wheel hubs/bearing should be in tomorrow

Will be working on it this weekend, I was hoping you guys could save me a trip to the store to buy tools.... Is there any special tools needed?
I have looked at the wheel hub bolts online (photo below) and I know I don't have this tool. Can you tell me what fits these bolts?
I tried to find a write up on either subject but didn't have any luck. If all goes well I will be sending a write up about this project.
Thanks

Post by **confused_al** » 02 Jul 2009, 12:19

mmgibson wrote: I tried to find a write up on either subject but didn't have any luck. If all goes well I will be sending a write up about this project.
Thanks

These links should help:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... tallation/

mmgibson wrote:I have looked at the wheel hub bolts online (photo below) and I know I don't have this tool. Can you tell me what fits these bolts?

If you have SK 12 point sockets(or any 12 point sockets) they would do the job nicely otherwise you need an E14 torx socket.
GL!

mmgibson · Post by **mmgibson** » 03 Jul 2009, 09:34

thanks Al
thats just this info I was looking for...
I will let you know how it goes...
I have my fingers crossed hoping this will cure the shuddering when I put on the brakes as well as being alot safer..

I have looked at the bushing as the ends of the steering arms.. they are cracked.. does this mean the need replaced...?
I assume its easier to just replace the steering arm end.... ?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 03 Jul 2009, 10:31

A vibration under braking normally means warped rotors.

I have looked at the bushing as the ends of the steering arms.. they are cracked.. does this mean the need replaced...?
I assume its easier to just replace the steering arm end.... ?

Are you talking about your tie rod ends? If the boots are cracked they are likely shot. Check them for play. Any play is too much.

...Lee

Post by **confused_al** » 03 Jul 2009, 10:42

mmgibson wrote: I have looked at the bushing as the ends of the steering arms.. ?

A pic?
Following Lee's suggestions, which I do religiously.

mmgibson · Post by **mmgibson** » 05 Jul 2009, 00:53

Hey guys,
No one told me that the control arm bushings have to be pressed in with a hydraulic press!!

Not that you should have or maybe I should have know that since it was in my Haynes Manual if I had read it before doing the repairs..

I think if there is a represenative that reads these posts from FCPGroton, that it would a good little note to put with your part description, "A hydraulic press my be needed to install bushings!!" Would be a nice customer service addition, Since they sell them seperately... If I would have known this before ordering I would have just ordered the control arms! I will now order the control arms to finish the job I had hoped to finish this weekend.

I do take Lee's advice to heart as I do most everyone's here at this forum... But I have already replaced the Brake Rotors, Pads, Calipers, and Rubber Brake hose.... Nothing seems to stop the vibration.. then when getting it inspected they showed me the control arm bushings.. I can grab the hub, pushing in and out and watch the bushings move with ease....

Included below is a photo of the parts I am going to need to replace, Tie rod (I called it a steering arm in last post) I am ordering it allong with the control arms..

I would like to know if there is any pitfalls when installing these... They appear to screw on to the steering rack... is there a trick to know you are getting them on the same exact way the old ones were...?

I have the new control arms ordered so that I can replace the ball joint (which is leaking grease out the bottom) and the bushings all at once...

The link Confused_al provided me with was an incredible help with installing the new hubs!!! I followed it nearly to the letter.. The new hubs from Groton's (FAG) were impressive looking but ought to be for 100 bucks each.. I have read that you need to torque the bushing bolts down once the car is at RIDE HEIGHT ONLY...

the only way I can think of doing this is installing them basicly loose... lowering the car... then putting a floor jack under the control arm lifting the wheel off the ground to remove it then torqueing them to spec... Is this the correct procedure???

photo sorry a bit blurry
A- Tie rod end bushing is cracked around the circumference of the bushing..
B- Sway bar bushing? they appear to be in good shape
C- Bushings I need to replace in order to pass inspection and now am ordering the complete control arm to replace..

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 05 Jul 2009, 05:57

I think some people have changed the bushings with hammers and sockets or pipe for drive tools. Have you tried that?

Craigd2599 · Post by **Craigd2599** » 05 Jul 2009, 06:13

Use a socket and a bottle jack. BTW...it's only about $30 more to just buy new control arms with the new bushings pressed in. Maybe everyone thought you were going that route.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 05 Jul 2009, 06:19

For the tie rods, mark where the thread ends and then mark up the new ones as well (same place) so you can screw them in the same amount. This will at least get you close enough to drive your car for a short distance- you'll need an alignment afterwards anyway.

Post by **confused_al** » 05 Jul 2009, 07:29

I too thought you were replacing the whole control arm (about $100 each from DW Volvo).

For the tie-rods, MIJ has a nice write-up
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 7381#27381
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... r-tie-rod/

BTW, I would get OEM rods only.

the only way I can think of doing this is installing them basicly loose... lowering the car... then putting a floor jack under the control arm lifting the wheel off the ground to remove it then torqueing them to spec... Is this the correct procedure???

The way I did (may not be the right way), is to jack the side to "ride high" without lowing the car, since I had swaybar end links disconnected. It would be easier use two jacks to get both side up without disconnecting the end links.