Alright, I still have a leaky head gasket or valve cover gasket, can't figure out if it's both or one or the other, but anyways.
At start up, it is hesitant, like the fuel is draining from the lines. not hesitant in starting more like hesitant when you hit the throttle for the first few miles, and now lately the trans doesn't want to shift right. I won't go into first from a stop unless you floor it, wants to start out in second, and also is sluggish on the shifts.
I changed the fluid a while back and now the stuff is turning brown again.
I'm wondering if the engine is lacking power causing the shifting issues, and burning up the fluid.
I had this problem with the trans in my '87 S10. The engine lacked power the trans didn't shift right.
Anyways, I was wondering what the hell is wrong with this car, it only has 229k miles on it.
Again with the '78 242 issues... HELP!
HI Steven,
define hesitant a little more please.
normally I would say hesitant is a fuel/ignition symptom but you also said the transmission fluid was getting dark. If you pull the shifter back into low when you come to a stop will it start out ok?
Did you pull the pan off the transmission when the fluid was changed and was it normal in the bottom then?
Look to see if the transmission throttle cable is adjusted properly. If it isn't right it could cause a hang in gear at a stop.
please let us know a little more details. Thanks!
define hesitant a little more please.
normally I would say hesitant is a fuel/ignition symptom but you also said the transmission fluid was getting dark. If you pull the shifter back into low when you come to a stop will it start out ok?
Did you pull the pan off the transmission when the fluid was changed and was it normal in the bottom then?
Look to see if the transmission throttle cable is adjusted properly. If it isn't right it could cause a hang in gear at a stop.
please let us know a little more details. Thanks!
alright, Well I'll start from the begining. about a year ago when I got the car.
I spent forever trying to get the thing on the road with
-new tires
-new fuel pumps
-fuel filters
-fuel lines
-fuel tank
-fuel distributor
-air venturi
-spark plugs
-spark plug wires
-cap and rotor
-rewire of half the dash, and half the engine bay
-sending unit for fuel level
The thing was running great for a while, then it developed a shake at around 5mph. Wasn't the trans, it was the u joints. They rusted together, there wasn't a sign of a needle bearing left in them. So I got new u joints in there.
Checked the rear end, fluid is still a light brown color.
Then the trans started acting up a couple months ago. Hesitant shifts, hard shifts from 1-2. Lack of power it felt like.
I know the motor isn't bad, cause it sounds as if you are hooking the motor up to a giant prop and sticking that prop in the water to push a huge boat when the trans is engaged, but when I got the trans in N or P the motor sounds free.
Anyways, the trans fluid was like hershey's chocolate syrup in thickness and color. I dropped the pan, changed the filter, added four quarts of oil. The thing ran GREAT for about a month and a half, then it just started acting up again.
While I had the pan off I did notice two of the bolts on the valve body have worked their way out about three turns, so I pulled out the torque wrench, hand tightend all those bolts, and pulled out the haynes manual and tightened the bolts the proper torque.
Thing is the fluid stayed red and clear for a month and a half, then the next day it was brown. I have no clue.
The no shift thing has to be with the trans, the hesitant thing I'm leaning towards the injectors are leaking fuel into the intake runners and it is kinda choking out. that or the fuel is running back to the tank.
Anyways, Any Ideas on if I should junk this trans or rebuild it based on what I just said?
I saw no metal in the old fluid. But the original trans was the three speed auto, not the four speed that's in it now.
PS: Ever since I got the car on the road, When I put it in gear from P or N the rpms drop about four hundred. I have to set my idle at about 1300-1500 rpms so when In drive or reverse it doesn't stall. This can't be good.
I spent forever trying to get the thing on the road with
-new tires
-new fuel pumps
-fuel filters
-fuel lines
-fuel tank
-fuel distributor
-air venturi
-spark plugs
-spark plug wires
-cap and rotor
-rewire of half the dash, and half the engine bay
-sending unit for fuel level
The thing was running great for a while, then it developed a shake at around 5mph. Wasn't the trans, it was the u joints. They rusted together, there wasn't a sign of a needle bearing left in them. So I got new u joints in there.
Checked the rear end, fluid is still a light brown color.
Then the trans started acting up a couple months ago. Hesitant shifts, hard shifts from 1-2. Lack of power it felt like.
I know the motor isn't bad, cause it sounds as if you are hooking the motor up to a giant prop and sticking that prop in the water to push a huge boat when the trans is engaged, but when I got the trans in N or P the motor sounds free.
Anyways, the trans fluid was like hershey's chocolate syrup in thickness and color. I dropped the pan, changed the filter, added four quarts of oil. The thing ran GREAT for about a month and a half, then it just started acting up again.
While I had the pan off I did notice two of the bolts on the valve body have worked their way out about three turns, so I pulled out the torque wrench, hand tightend all those bolts, and pulled out the haynes manual and tightened the bolts the proper torque.
Thing is the fluid stayed red and clear for a month and a half, then the next day it was brown. I have no clue.
The no shift thing has to be with the trans, the hesitant thing I'm leaning towards the injectors are leaking fuel into the intake runners and it is kinda choking out. that or the fuel is running back to the tank.
Anyways, Any Ideas on if I should junk this trans or rebuild it based on what I just said?
I saw no metal in the old fluid. But the original trans was the three speed auto, not the four speed that's in it now.
PS: Ever since I got the car on the road, When I put it in gear from P or N the rpms drop about four hundred. I have to set my idle at about 1300-1500 rpms so when In drive or reverse it doesn't stall. This can't be good.
Hi Steven,Steven242 wrote: Anyways, the trans fluid was like hershey's chocolate syrup in thickness and color.
I saw no metal in the old fluid. But the original trans was the three speed auto, not the four speed that's in it now.
PS: Ever since I got the car on the road, When I put it in gear from P or N the rpms drop about four hundred. I have to set my idle at about 1300-1500 rpms so when In drive or reverse it doesn't stall. This can't be good.
OK, big clue here! Thanks for the update info. Changing the transmission was a problem. Your transmission fluid is getting cooked. That is the brown chocolate syrup color.
Most of the heat generated in an automatic transmission is from the torque converter. While most torque converters for Volvos look the same on the outside they are different on the inside. They have different stall speeds and some have lockup clutches while others don't. Stall speed is the engine RPM where the engine will stall if you rev it in gear with the foot on the brake. In this case I think the stall speed is what hurt you. It sounds like the transimission put in you car was not correct for the engine, or they put in a wrong or bad torque converter.
Unfortunately once the fluid cooks like that it creates another problem. The shift timing and firmness is controlled by a complex system of hydraulic valves and orifices. once the fluid thickens it clogs those orifices and sticks the valves. This could cause the transmission to hangup in a higher gear at a stop. As you accelerate and the pressure builds it could push the valve over and it will drop into a lower gear. This might explain the hesitation. Another problem with bad fluid is it looses it's basic properties such as heat transference and lubrication. In short, the rest of the transmission quickly goes to ruin.
Sorry this isn't good news. You could rebuild it, but the shop would have to ID the converter and find one that matches your engine/vehicle combination. Or put the older trans back in.
Alright, well Thanks man, I had a bad feeling in my gut when I noticed that the trans was an AW70L as I was changing the fluid a couple months ago.
I went to Autozone yesterday and they can get me a three speed auto same make, model, stall speed ment for this car for about a grand plus tax, and the trans shop said they can do the swap for $175. I guess now I am just waiting for the cash to become ready.
This car was getting so close to becoming ready for paint and upholstery. I have a brand new dash in it, from dash pad to kick panels, newish seats, and manufactured the door panels, that just need covered with new vinyle.
don't you hate when you think you got all the bugs out of it, something major goes wrong?
I went to Autozone yesterday and they can get me a three speed auto same make, model, stall speed ment for this car for about a grand plus tax, and the trans shop said they can do the swap for $175. I guess now I am just waiting for the cash to become ready.
This car was getting so close to becoming ready for paint and upholstery. I have a brand new dash in it, from dash pad to kick panels, newish seats, and manufactured the door panels, that just need covered with new vinyle.
don't you hate when you think you got all the bugs out of it, something major goes wrong?
Your start up issues sound like a bad fuel pressure accumulator to me. It's that unit next to the fuel pump. The original units have a small hose coming off the back side of it. Pulling off the hose, see if any fuel drips out of it or the hose. If yes, unit has died. Replacement pressure accumulator has no small hose. Bad accumulator has symptom of slow start up and poor abrupt throttle response
Well, it seems the accumulator was not the original, there is no hose. I'm almost leaning towards Leaky fuel injectors, Cause it seems like a flooded issue in one cylinder, and at part throttle going down the road every now and then it feels like its missing. Its got new plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
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Silver Brick
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 28 June 2009
- Year and Model: DL Wagon, 1984
- Location: U.S.A.
Steven,
One other thing that can cause your transmission fluid to be that color is the transmission oil cooler. If it is stopped up, or if your radiator has a lot of bugs, etc. in the fins, the transmission oil isn't getting cooled down. It's located on the left side, ( standing in front of your car ), of your radiator. You'll see copper piping, I believe, connected to that part of the radiator. If you have a radiator with metal tanks, you can take it off the car, and carry it to a radiator shop to have it cleaned out. Hope this helps.
Andrew
One other thing that can cause your transmission fluid to be that color is the transmission oil cooler. If it is stopped up, or if your radiator has a lot of bugs, etc. in the fins, the transmission oil isn't getting cooled down. It's located on the left side, ( standing in front of your car ), of your radiator. You'll see copper piping, I believe, connected to that part of the radiator. If you have a radiator with metal tanks, you can take it off the car, and carry it to a radiator shop to have it cleaned out. Hope this helps.
Andrew
ummm... radiator is the old fashioned type with the trans lines that are part of the radiator for the engine, no seperate cooler to take apart and take to a shop... I've checked everything, I'm just chalking this up to another thing that the previous owner should not have done because of lack of knowledge... The transmission is not the original BW or AW 55, it is the AW70L, which over time with my research, I have found out it was made for the '82 and newer cars because of the added horsepower that could turn it. I'm going to be getting an AW55 to put back into this car and 90% of my problems should dissapear overnight.
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