New Car, Multiple Problems - 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo

M81388 · Post by **M81388** » 26 May 2007, 22:40

Hi, I just got a 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo w/ 84,000mi. I'm having a few issues, just wondering what I can do about them and how much they would cost:

1. Check Engine - Took the car to AutoZone, it needs an O2 Sensor.

2. Loose Instrument Cluster - The 2 clips that hold the instrument cluster to the dash are totally broken, the only things holding it relatively still are the two pins at the bottom.

3. Intermittent AC - I have set it to automatic everything and the lowest temperature. It will give very cold air for 15-30 min at full fan speed, then the temperature of the air will rise instantly and the fans will stay at full blast. I have already added 1 3/4 cans of R134a.

4. Rear Console Cover Broken and Loose - I looked at the area and it seems that the stop for the arm rest(at the pivot) is broken and there is nothing keeping the armrest from falling backwards. Because of this, the rear center console cover is broken. I don't want to replace it before i find something to do about the armrest of fear it might break the new one as well.

5. Loose Seatbelt and Clip - The driver's seatbelt has very little tension and feels used. Also the seatbelt release button must be jiggled profusely to actually release the seatbelt.

6. Loose Driver's Seat Back - The driver's seat back can be jostled about 1 inch. Is there anything I can tighten to get rid of this?

7. Heated Seats - The driver's seat gives no heat at all. The passenger seat gives heat, although it's not impressive. Can I add some element, or replace a heating pad, or replace a switch?

8. Cracked Leather - The driver's seat's leather is very cracked. Can I apply some gel or cream to the seat, or should I just replace the leather?

Any input will be appreciated.
Thank you very much.

zenmervolt · Post by **zenmervolt** » 26 May 2007, 23:22

3. You added cans, did you check the charge level first? Having too much R-134a in the system is VERY bad for it and can cause the system to lose effectiveness as well as potentially damaging the system and requiring repair or replacement.

4. Common issue, you would need to replace the entire center console to fix the hinge issue. Just be careful when opening the compartment.

7. Integral to the seat, would be a pain in the arse to fix.

8. Cream or gel will not fix cracks. Good leather conditioner like you can find in any automotive store will prevent further cracking though.

Post by **JRL** » 27 May 2007, 06:02

Try the A/C in manual first but now you should have it evacayed and recharged. As was said, too much freon will destroy the system
As for your leather, try one of these guys to repair it, they do wonders for my cars
www.fabrion.net

M81388 · Post by **M81388** » 28 May 2007, 21:02

Yes, I did check the level of the A/C before I added freon and it was bone dry. I kept adding untill the tempurature of the air coming outside of the rightmost vent was ~35

Post by **JRL** » 29 May 2007, 05:27

[quote="M81388"

Fabrion is based out of Michigan. I'd like my seat fixed, but i'm not about to drive all the way from CT to do it,

?[/quote]
Aw gees, did you even LOOK at the website?
It says look for the local franchise near you
They are franchised and have local people all over the place.
The guy I use is one of 5 in the Philly area and are very good

zenmervolt · Post by **zenmervolt** » 29 May 2007, 10:04

[quote="M81388"]Yes, I did check the level of the A/C before I added freon and it was bone dry. I kept adding untill the tempurature of the air coming outside of the rightmost vent was ~35

Woodchimps · Post by **Woodchimps** » 13 Jul 2009, 23:28

Off thread a little. My daughters 1998 lost freon due to hole in high pressure hose. Do I have to replace anything other than the hose and refill?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Jul 2009, 14:18

Any time the system is open to the atmosphere for more than a few hours you should replace the Accumulator/Receiver/Drier (It can go by any of those names but it is just one part.) I have refilled an empty system without changing the accumulator a couple of times and it worked OK but in those situation it had gone flat from a very slow leak.

Anytime you replace the accumulator you will need to add PAG oil.

...Lee

Woodchimps · Post by **Woodchimps** » 14 Jul 2009, 18:50

Thanks for the prompt response. I will bite the bullet and order the accumulator also. May or may not do the job myself but depends on my mechanic's quote. I have a vacuum pump, do I have to take the system to a certain value after changing the accumulator and ready to add the "Freon"?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Jul 2009, 19:59

I pull a vacuum for about 30 minutes and then let it set for another 10 minutes or so to make sure it isn't leaking. The accumulator is a real B@stard to get off, particularly if you live in a snowy climate where they use a lot of road salt. The last one I did was a Chicago car where, based on the corrosion, I think they pour battery acid on the streets to clear snow.

Soaking the "quick release" fittings with PB Blaster will help immensely but the big flare nut is still a pain. I dropped the entire accumulator below the air guide after I got the top connection off (not a small task) so that I could get two wrenches on it to change the last one that I replaced.

I will need to fire up a windows partition on this computer to get to VADIS but I will try to tell you how much PAG oil to add along with the accumulator. I just buy the pressurized variety and add it through the R-134A port.

It sounds like you are doing it right.

...Lee